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Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 12:23 pm
by AcTioN13
that sounds about right to me, as the tail shaft is what is lining it up?

Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 2:07 pm
by Guy
No real need to use heim\rose joints. The system can roll unimpeded using the slip and twist joint, and the soild jounts will simply sereve to transmit alot of viberation into the chassis.

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:53 pm
by hurricane
yes but im not going to use the slip and twist way, i was goin to use the shackel method, it seems that it would last longer to me.

and i was thinking of useing rose joints on the bad to as when the diff is flexed, with one wheel up and other down the diff on an angle, as if it was crab walking in a way.

so if the rear mounts were boushes it might limit flex in a way?

hope that makes sence.

cheers,dan

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:54 pm
by jimbo jones
-Richo- wrote:Here are some pics...

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Dig ;)
going to build one like this for my zook

jimbo

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:01 pm
by Z()LTAN
if you do jimbo put a shackle on the frame end or youll bind up like hell when flexing...

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:12 pm
by ozy1
Z()LTAN wrote:if you do jimbo put a shackle on the frame end or youll bind up like hell when flexing...
why, slip and twist wrap bars dont require them, i built a slip and twist setup for a sprung over 40 series cruiser with pretty big flex and it has no dramas at all with bind,

can you explain why you need a shackle on this setup when clearly you dont?

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:19 pm
by Z()LTAN
lol i didnt see the slip in the bar there... my bad.

:oops:

disregard my previous comment jimbo

Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:15 am
by alien
Here's my setups - oztraks/caltracs style. I've since lopped off the lower hole on the front side. solved all wrapping and tramping woes instantly, and its adjustable and will never bind up!

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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:47 am
by Z()LTAN
yeah its a good setup but it hangs down a god awful amount..

Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:13 am
by alien
not at all... its right up next to the rim and doesnt hang down any more than the springs used to when it was SPUA... i've given it a good run too and im yet to hit them on anything.

Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:16 pm
by redv8lux
I had bad axle wrap problems on a hilux based buggy
I ended up using 2 panhard rods from a commodore with solid rod slipped up the inside of them to make my traction bar
I used a shackle on the front of the bar instead of the slip an twist setup
So far it has worked a treat an has handled a fair bit of punishment
An the cost was virtually nothing

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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:29 am
by jimbo jones
how much play wht the pipe that slides over in the slip'n twist set out should have?
should it be a snug fit or should the be a few mm for grease?

Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:36 am
by Shadow
jimbo jones wrote:how much play wht the pipe that slides over in the slip'n twist set out should have?
should it be a snug fit or should the be a few mm for grease?
few mm for grease.

bung a grease nipple in there too.

Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:34 pm
by jimbo jones
Shadow wrote:
jimbo jones wrote:how much play wht the pipe that slides over in the slip'n twist set out should have?
should it be a snug fit or should the be a few mm for grease?
few mm for grease.

bung a grease nipple in there too.
thanks

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:37 pm
by zukesloveformud
has anyone ever had any problems with the sleeved section binding up or flaring. For exsample if the rear diff is at full drop and the tires grab tracion while the power is put down heavly, like going up a rock ledge.