Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Oh baby now i have some planning to do!

does any body know what else you can get toy centres out of, today i had a look under a hi-ace and town-ace and the diff looked very much the same, hard to be for sure with out a picture. this might be a cheaper option for the rear,as i know a wrecker who has a couple, just don't know the ratios. is there any way of telling the ratio with out pulling the centre out?

6.5 rangie wrote:does any body know what else you can get toy centres out of, today i had a look under a hi-ace and town-ace and the diff looked very much the same, hard to be for sure with out a picture. this might be a cheaper option for the rear,as i know a wrecker who has a couple, just don't know the ratios. is there any way of telling the ratio with out pulling the centre out?

I think they are low pinion 4.8 ratio.

Bunderra's also had the same centres.

78 Series Cruiser's had the smae centre in the front (HP), 4.1 ratio I think.

Be careful as some Hiaces were 5.29 as well.
Stick to 80/100/Bundera.

Anything over 4.88 with running 33's-35's with normal Rover boxes and engines becomes to overgeared and will rev if used to drive around town / touring ect...

I think 4.5 would be the best - Landy_Man would proabably agree

Dave.

yeah the 5.2 hiace diffs. i was looking to fit these to the series.

my thinking is - as i have the high speed transfer case mod and am looking to fit an over drive 5 speed to it. i have not done the maths but would imagine highway revs would still be around 3000. ????

only trouble is - are toy 5.2 ratio diffs still heaps stronger than rover 4.7's ??

i can get 5.29 cheapish ~$250 each

any help with the maths working out the low range ratios and hwy revs (100k), greatly appreciated

possibly looking at the supra w38 or cabstar jap boxes


sorry for the mini hyjack.

I'm pretty sure GURU shaved his GQ diffs and got better than the Rover flat bottom diffs. He may be able to confirm this.

Slunnie wrote:I'm pretty sure GURU shaved his GQ diffs and got better than the Rover flat bottom diffs. He may be able to confirm this.

Ok its hard to believe but what about shaving a flat bottom rover diff? Gotta be better than a GQ!

Sorry for the Hijack,

What is the stock ratio in a Defender Sailsbury diff?

Thanks,
Adam.

popeye wrote:only trouble is - are toy 5.2 ratio diffs still heaps stronger than rover 4.7's ??

I doubt it, I have a mate that keeps braking them in a single cab hilux with a 2.4L N/A Diesel.

A*D*A*M wrote:Sorry for the Hijack,

What is the stock ratio in a Defender Sailsbury diff?

Thanks,
Adam.

3.54:1

iv just done my toy diff swap in my 82 RR, i used 4.3:1 ratios front and rear - front is out of a bundera its hi-pinion
- Rear is out of a a 4 runner - LSD

with the LSD's your axles will be too long when u put them togeather so u need to cut 8-10mm off the ends....assuming your using jack mac axles.
this is because of that metal plate existing inside the centres, where normally you would just find those pins.

going to drive it in a week ...im stil waiting on more suspension components ect. iv been told this is the best ratio to run with 35" tyres..

SWAMPRR wrote:iv just done my toy diff swap in my 82 RR, i used 4.3:1 ratios front and rear - front is out of a bundera its hi-pinion
- Rear is out of a a 4 runner - LSD

with the LSD's your axles will be too long when u put them togeather so u need to cut 8-10mm off the ends....assuming your using jack mac axles.
this is because of that metal plate existing inside the centres, where normally you would just find those pins.

going to drive it in a week ...im stil waiting on more suspension components ect. iv been told this is the best ratio to run with 35" tyres..

Yeah im looking at 4:3 myself! Let us know how she feels when u give it a test run! Did it all go together ok any major drama's u came across?

Yep 4.3 is the go.

I also run these.

Michael.

4.3 High Pinions are also available out of the front of 100series cruisers.

can anyone tell me what rpm they are doing at 100kmh with the toy centres in and 35's, i was looking at doing 4.1s but u can't get a 4.1 for the rear and i need to keep rpm down to about 2000rpm, mine runs the t700/ lt95 with 35's so i have overdrive. what i really need to know is 3.9 or 4.3, any help appreciated.

6.5 rangie wrote: i was looking at doing 4.1s but u can't get a 4.1 for the rear.

You can get a 4.1 for the rear - out of a Hilux.

according to the 4x4 wreckers in dandenong you can't. , and according to g&j gears in mornington you can't as they don't make these ratio's for a rear diff in a hilux. i thought these two places would know, especially g&j gears.

I got my 4.1 rear from a Surf. I'm pretty sure Don Kyatt's sells them also.

import? what year? thats the ratio i'm after i think, depends on rpm at 100kmh, want around 2000rpm

It came out of a 94 Surf, 3.0 turbo diesel Auto owned by Surfin Alec
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 8248#88248
The Surfs are imports.

35's and 4.1's 5th Gear = 1500 rpm @ 110kph (in my truck)

What are you running Maggot? LT85?
6.5 Rangie is a T700/LT95?
I'm ZF/LT230 2200rpm I think at 100km with 4.1/35's

Yep LT85. I think my tacho may be a bit lazy

2000 rpm =106.7 k

35 inch rubber.
1.003 H/R trans case.
4.3 diffs.

Michael.

what is the approximate cost of a doing both diffs with a toy

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=51734

its not cheap...some people could do it cheaper than me if they have access to a lathe and cheaper parts ect....

axles + drive flanges + brass bushes from jac mac $1610 inc postage.

front diff - HP 4.3 ratio was $300
rear diff - LSD 4.3 ratio was $250
2x used toyota cvs - $50

2x taps, 4x drill bits - various sizes + drilling lube +locktite and varios other things including a drill a burnt out which cost me $30 for this job. welding rods, grinding wheels ect - All these items came to around $150

Race engineering in Sumner Park, Brisbane did the lathe work on my spindles. Cost approx $150

Estimate total cost was - $2510


my tip is when your marking your holes b4 u drill and tap the housing, to place the axles and centre in the housing and get it roughly in position and then get your drill and drill each hole just enough to mark the housing....then take your centre away and then use a small pilot bit to drill them.

then come back with your first drill bit and drill them out properly ... first centre i did i used a punch to tranfur the holes and i stuffed one of the holes up. had to weld it up and re drill it.

If you are in Melb

I have a template for drilling the RR housing to take toy centre.

Michael.

damn sounds quit involved

81 rangie wrote:damn sounds quit involved

No its easy.

Can drill and tap Housings in car if you want.

Michael.