Outer Limits 4x4 Board

on rims? if so, how much for 4?

Nic - maybe sway bar - not sure if its needed yet =) haha

no rims, i need em..lol, to you $1000 for 4.

dang =) if you havent got rid of them by mid next year ill take them - cant afford $1k till then... hahaha im so poor. Thanks for the offer tho, and they are very sexy tyres too (just checked for sale section).

Curious - what do the 32's measure height wise? if a 31 measures 32, do these measure 33?

nope they measure 32 on an 8" rim, and there is no way the 31 will measure 32 when mounted.

can i please get a moderator to remove this post and the ones between myself and graham (bazooked) about the tyres? cheers.

Good news tonight - finally got all the u-bolt plates finished and bolted in!!! and you know what that means... TIME TO FLEX IT!!!

But first, a pic of the plate:


4mm plate with 12mm rod welded all round. this is front drivers side, the other 4 have a 10mm crush tube welded to the plate between the 4 nuts to space them, as the threads werent quite right.


Youll see that front shackle still has some movement left in it - but youll also see the block of wood on the jack fell over, so we couldnt take it up to full flex, but this was enough to keep us happy for now =) the front passenger side leaf is actually inverting too. probably going to have to stick that 3rd leaf back in and run the full pack to give it some strength back. As it is we reckon itll be prone to snapping leaves (a lot of bendyness).

The ride however seems to be stiffer than my 2" springs - it doesnt wobble much at all considering theres no shockies in it!!

tomorrow we will start on the front bar and making templates for front recovery point and side steps. maybe the tcase mounts if we have time.

saturday i pick up the extended, resplined drive shafts (with a hilux double cardan in the front to clear the x-member in front of the tcase). so i wouldnt doubt saturday will be spent bolting that back in, putting the tie-rod on and flexing it again - hopefully all the way this time!

with my front shaft on the swb i rand a normal hilux shaft thats been shortened i also modified the crossmember( the 1 thats welded between the chassis), i ended up using the dc on the rear because the angle was to much and i was getting vibes because it ends up being to short with alot of lift.
there is a pic of what i did to the front crossmember.

didnt the DC increase the angle though? its moving the shaft closer to the diff, so it has to?

Ive left it with craig at verrier's to sort out, we have given him measurements so as long as they are stuck to it will be fine =)

alien wrote: 4mm plate with 12mm rod welded all round

Why didn't you just use Hilux spring plates? Just curious.

cant find any lux ones in good cond. around the place... so why resist the urge to use power tools and make our own? =)

at least we know these wont break =P

Mostly finished the front bar on the weekend, and started on the rear end... here's some pics of the bar. We have since boxed in the spring mounts so theyre closed at the front (just the top section). The bar is just sitting over the chassis at the moment so its a little wacky. Needs crush tube and 2 bolts each side and a hell of a lot of paint!! (gloss black kill rust). 2 round spotties will sit in front of the radiator, and rectangular spots either side of the zuk badge.

Bar's pipes are all 3mm thick exhaust pipe, the 2 boxes at the front are made of 3mm plate. Purely to keep it lightweight - the old one never copped a huge pounding and this will be way stronger than the previous alloy one. Total weight is around 7kg.






2 front recovery points will also go under the 2 crossmembers, adding bracing to them and prodiving some good slide possibilities.

Oh yeh - we also made templates for the side steps, there will be 3 mounts made of 8mm plate for side steps and tube off that, will also run a strap along the 3 mounts to be slide friendly.

Fugly. looks ok.

Any chance of making 2 sets of the sliders?

nic

That is so lush!

Awesome reading and good work!!!

Thought i'd throw in a current update...

Have got draglink on, made a new re-inforced tie-rod by cutting 2 tie rods in half, inserting the stock draglink inside the 2, puddle welded along the whole length and welded the join shut.

Front bar is almost done, pretty much just needs bolting on.

Rear bar is taking shape (no pics as yet) will have a kind of stock look but incorporates a step which also houses the numberplate.

have got the supports for the side steps in too, so will be starting on them soon.

Here's a pic of tie rod:

Ive lightened the hell out of it to try get more detail for you to see. basically though, its symetrical...

So alien,
In simple known detailed steps how do you get a SPOA engineered in wa?
Using any sort of leafs. BTW great info. Im loving the flex
cheese

1) phone DPI and get Vehicle Modification Application form (or get it of the net)

2) submit form and wait 3-6 months to get approval on the modifications (they send you a letter)

3) consult an engineer regarding your mods, find out what he wants done before he will pass it and before you start cutting it up

4) finish the work on the mods, take photos of EVERYTHING along the way especially before things are painted, as paint hides welds.

5) call engineer to present car to him, also take pics so he can see the buildup and how things were done (ie: my tierod, youd never know it was solid steel).

6) swerve test will need to be arranged, once you pass that, it goes over the pits where they abuse it cos its not theirs

7) DPI issue you the papers that say its been engineered

8) cop pulls you over as you leave the pits and you get to smile and say "its legal".

I'll also be keeping a diary in the zuk of the times ive been pulled over by cops and their badge numbers, just incase it happens too frequently i can submit a complaint.

Hows the zook comming along and how about some updated pics.

aint worked on the zuk for nearly 2 weeks now due to steering and the xmas break... should be getting back into it early next week. not a lot left to do...

- side steps
- rear bar
- tcase gears
- new x-member for tcase
- shockies

Have got draglink on, made a new re-inforced tie-rod by cutting 2 tie rods in half, inserting the stock draglink inside the 2, puddle welded along the whole length and welded the join shut.

Aren't you getting this car engineered??????

If you modify a steering component it will need to be tested/x-rayed.

not if it contains more than 50mm of weld... ours is ultra strong. If it requires xraying then we will do it, but so far it doesnt. Xray is only $80 anyway - not like a HUGE budget blower.

U finished yet and i want more pics

dont talk to me about it!!! =)

aint worked on it since xmas... been waiting on sam @ overkill to send me new steering arm to fit vitara calipers (clearance issues).

other than that, just need rear bar finished, new x-member on tcase, shockies, and gears chucked in...

not hold my breath... ive got a car to drive in the meantime so theres no huge rush anymore, but still - sooner the better!! i want my precious zuk back!!!

Thanks for the referral to check out your car. It's got a lot of features that I'm trying to incorporate into my own project.

Looking foreward to seeing this baby hit the trails!