Outer Limits 4x4 Board

tried to post but it said the photos were to large anyone no how to resizes photos on windows xp

duncan wrote:tried to post but it said the photos were to large anyone no how to resizes photos on windows xp

use a program called irfanview, it is free, download it, through a search on google

meanwhile, email me the pics and i can post them for you!!

So Bj where r these pics

I sent them to Bj he just hasnt posted them up if he dosent want to ill send them to some one else ive now trimed my panhard rod chassis mount and dont hit it anymore

duncan wrote:I sent them to Bj he just hasnt posted them up if he dosent want to ill send them to some one else ive now trimed my panhard rod chassis mount and dont hit it anymore

ben_and_sarah@bigpond.com

send em thru

hypolux wrote:

duncan wrote:I sent them to Bj he just hasnt posted them up if he dosent want to ill send them to some one else ive now trimed my panhard rod chassis mount and dont hit it anymore

ben_and_sarah@bigpond.com

send em thru

Well postem up scum / he had the same response wen he sent em through to Bj

Wendle or Duncan



With this swap could you get away with just grinding down the caliper cage to wat the mq ones are , heres a pic to refresh ya minds ........


this way will just save money / and time searchin for some calipers

A1MAV wrote:Wendle or Duncan



With this swap could you get away with just grinding down the caliper cage to wat the mq ones are , heres a pic to refresh ya minds ........


this way will just save money / and time searchin for some calipers

I think you could, but they would have to be spot on flat (way flatter than I would be able to get them with my backyard engineering skills) or they will chetter and vibrate under brakes, and probably load the bolts up to shear point.. The other thing is; how much thread will be left if you machine that part off? I can't remember if the thread runs all the way through the GQ caliper? you'll probably need to find bolts too, as the blind part of the bolt will be in the way of the threads. maybe? just check it all out first, before you ruin the only calipers you have!

Yeah good point as usual .........um think i will just find a set a calipers


Have found some new bolts but they lack the shank part and it works out that it is bout 0.02mm smaller than the origianl bolts they are a metric 14mm fine thread and 35 long............im gunna see if i can order in some that are right ...........herad a ferw storys lately with these breakin

yeah, I think the nissan bolts are grade 1 million. they even feel heavy to pick up.

due to popular demand, i just went through and re-posted all the pics that were in this thread before they were lost in one of many board crashes.

LOL after all my questions , gathering all the gear needed getting the mq knuckles sandblasted ..new genuine caliper bolts ... new tierod ends .....................there still sitting in my loft ......


Well some1 might make use of em 1 day



Was good tech seems as though the days of tech articles like this 1 where people in other states are willing to post info ..and how too posts like these on outerlimits are few and far bewteen ......



Dan

grave dig.
any chance someone still has the pics to go with this awesome tech?

Thanks to A1 for the pics
In no particular order:

well my car will be next with MQ knuckels MQ cage for the calapers
SPOA and than gotta sort out the all the bars and shit

GUJohnno wrote:Thanks to A1 for the pics
In no particular order:

Any pics of the panhard fixed so it dont hit???

Thanks Dan

OK ALL!!!

I've just put a GQ LEAF diff in the Front of my MQ.
I've used my MQ knuckles and hi steer and changed the Internal Spline of the Free Wheeling Hub.
Passanger side bolted on fine, Hi steer bolted on fine. Got to the drivers side bolted it on tighted it all up. Movement/Play in the knuckle, pulled it all apart, bearings and all fine. CAN'T work it out!

I didn't put this (see pic below) on the end of the CV. I can't see this making a difference but i could be wrong.



Any Ideas?

WICKED wrote:OK ALL!!!

I've just put a GQ LEAF diff in the Front of my MQ.
I've used my MQ knuckles and hi steer and changed the Internal Spline of the Free Wheeling Hub.
Passanger side bolted on fine, Hi steer bolted on fine. Got to the drivers side bolted it on tighted it all up. Movement/Play in the knuckle, pulled it all apart, bearings and all fine. CAN'T work it out!

I didn't put this (see pic below) on the end of the CV. I can't see this making a difference but i could be wrong.



Any Ideas?

A complete set of Trunion bearings might help

RUFF wrote:


A complete set of Trunion bearings might help

Fark!

WICKED wrote:OK ALL!!!

I've just put a GQ LEAF diff in the Front of my MQ.
I've used my MQ knuckles and hi steer and changed the Internal Spline of the Free Wheeling Hub.

Pics please
Hoppy

Hoppy11 wrote:

WICKED wrote:OK ALL!!!

I've just put a GQ LEAF diff in the Front of my MQ.
I've used my MQ knuckles and hi steer and changed the Internal Spline of the Free Wheeling Hub.

Pics please
Hoppy

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... asc-60.php

How much wider is the track of the GQ front diff compared to the MQ? Been thinkin about doin this but dunno if I could be arsed putting the money and effort in. Wider track would be nice though...

A GQ coil diff is 4" wider then MQ.

However, GQ leaf spring diff and MQ diff are same width( which has been used above), they just have the bigger GQ internals (R & P, axles & CVs).

I wanted to put a GQ coil diff in my GQ leaf ute (and stil run leafs), however it would mean that the spring mount on the drivers side would be half way up the diff pumpkin.

Cheers

Chris

GQ springs are wider than MQ ones, thats why the U Bolts angle in at the top.
Hoppy

gorilla wrote:A GQ coil diff is 4" wider then MQ.

However, GQ leaf spring diff and MQ diff are same width( which has been used above), they just have the bigger GQ internals (R & P, axles & CVs).

I wanted to put a GQ coil diff in my GQ leaf ute (and stil run leafs), however it would mean that the spring mount on the drivers side would be half way up the diff pumpkin.

Cheers

Chris

30mm Difference in the diff's mate. Close but not the same. Bigger Internals in the reason! w00t w00t

You have a few options to put a Coil diff in a Leaf car. Offset the springs, Raised perch's of the diff or scoplut out the housing. Leaf to leaf is easyer or you coil it!

Hoppy wrote: GQ springs are wider than MQ ones, thats why the U Bolts angle in at the top.
Hoppy

My spring packs aren't MQ dude.....

WICKED wrote:[My spring packs aren't MQ dude.....

Sorry bout that, but GQ spring packs are wider than MQ ones, by about 10 mm ish

Hoppy

Would someone mind answering a few Q's for me:

-Do you need to swap the L/H knuckle or is it fine to use the GQ L/H knuckle? I guess if you did this, you would need to ream the R/H side so the tie rod sits on top.

-If you were to use both L&R side knuckes with the tie rod underneith, does the tie rod still hit/ come close to the panhard rod?

-In the second post on the first page there is a line which says "In the plan photo you can see the shim that has been machined and fitted to the arm." What is the shim? I'm not sure where to look and what it's for.

-Do you need to lengthen the MQ tie rod? If I use knuckles and tie rod off a GQ leaf cab do you need to lengthen the tie rid?

-If you use GQ leaf cab knuckles, do you still need to use offset knuckle bearings?

im curious about all the above questions too, is the tie rod the mq or gq item?

patrol_maverick wrote:Would someone mind answering a few Q's for me:
1. Do you need to swap the L/H knuckle or is it fine to use the GQ L/H knuckle? I guess if you did this, you would need to ream the R/H side so the tie rod sits on top.
2. If you were to use both L&R side knuckes with the tie rod underneith, does the tie rod still hit/ come close to the panhard rod?
3. In the second post on the first page there is a line which says "In the plan photo you can see the shim that has been machined and fitted to the arm." What is the shim? I'm not sure where to look and what it's for.
4. Do you need to lengthen the MQ tie rod? If I use knuckles and tie rod off a GQ leaf cab do you need to lengthen the tie rid?
5. If you use GQ leaf cab knuckles, do you still need to use offset knuckle bearings?

1. You could probably leave the LH knuckle as it is, the tie rod won't be parallel with the housing though, so it will probably look a little gypsy.

2. Probably, mine fit in OK anyway because everything was moved forwards, but the extra 50mm or so you would gain would probably be all that you need. Take your springs out and let the car sit on the bumpstops and get a tape measure and you can work it out easy.

3. If you machine out the tapers backwards you need to machine a shim to bring them back to size as the taper obviously ends up bigger once you remove all of the original taper. I just had them machined out of cr-mo, they are just a tapered insert. Like a little ice cream cone with the ends cut off.

4. You have to make a tie rod. MQ is too short and GQ is too flimsy to machine for the big MQ LH end.

5. I have no idea, possibly not. You probably don't have to with the MQ ones either, it drove fine without them, just looked a little weird.

Is it possible to do this on a GU ?