Outer Limits 4x4 Board

80UTE wrote:

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

80UTE wrote:

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:HI THERE
I AM NEW TO THIS FORUM AND I THOUGHT IF I COULD HELP ANYONE HERE WITH THERE EXHAUST QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS I WOULD ONLY BE TO HAPPY TO DO SO
MY NAME IS ROSS AND I HAVE BEEN AN EXHAUST TECH FOR OVER 30 YEARS
I LOVE TO SOLVE THE HARD PROBLEMS SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO FIRE AWAY
THANKS

I made up tube headers for my B/Block 80 ute years ago out of mild steel tubing and had them HPC hi-temp coated. I have had bad problems with the pipes constantly cracking, im always rewelding and having to pull the pipes off to do it some times. Ive made headers before but being my own 4B had them coated for corrosion resistance mainly. Have heard this to be a problem on exhausts when coated as the pipes run real hot and is a common problem, i also wonder what it does to the steels chemical properties. I am contemplating making a new set but this time in stainless but have had a lot to do with stainless pipe ( Im a maint supv in a steel mill ) and over time the stainless suffers from fatigue cracking. I need the corrosion resistance as the 80ute is a recreational 4B so dosent see regular mon-fri use gets moved around the shed and has the typical mud encrusted moisture absorbing exhaust coating. Mild steel pipes uncoated dont last too long under these conditions so thats why looking at stainless and prepared to go to the expense on materials and full tig weld them but would like to be sure im doing the right thing.

wally

nice question wally
ok no1 use a 10mm plate
no2 use 316 stainless steel
no3 tig weld all joints do not grind back welds
no4 make pipes go in to collector cone in firing order or rotation 1 to 4 in firing order
do no hang the exhaust to ridged make sure you have plenty of movement on the rubber mountd
at the back of the collector cones
make up solid plate mounts and attach to gearbok
if your making your own collector cones put a point inside them
your cracking is due to vibration and sagging under heat
if you do all this you should have no problim

i have a simular setup on the new ford focus world series rally car and that does not brake
thanks for the brain drain
ross

Thanks for the great info your a regular information cow and the milking wont stop till your dry. My current headers are a 4-2-1 1 7/8' primary tubes into 2 1/2 engine pipes then 3 1/2' muffler and exhaust sytem the whole system is constructed from mandrel bent tubing. Ive since fitted a bigger cam, Holley EFI inlet manifold and Bowtie GM Performance alloy heads. I have been advised to go to 2' primary tubes and plan on on making the pipes a 4-1 configuration as in the 80 ute this may be a more sturdy construction. Would 4 2' pipes into a 2 1/2' collector oulet be sufficient or would i need larger engine pipes. Ive looked into supporting the exhiaust on the gear box and will do that as well. Im looking into what 4-1 collectors are available in 316 stainless for when i make up the new pipes. On my original post i mensioned the HPC coating adding to the cracking problems and have come across others that have had the same problems , you being in the industry have you come accross this.

Wally

popeye wrote:hi.

I've got a holden red 186 which i will be swapping soon for a blue mtr.
problem is, the red extractors i have dont quite fit on the blue head, can you weld on a blue manifold plate to the red extractors ?

or - i have black efi (mild steel) extractors,which are a better design than the red ones but they stick out too far from the block and will foul on the chassis. Can the tubes be squashed in closer together, without warping the mounting face?

sierrajim wrote:EXHAUSTFIX,

I must say that you have a tremendous knowledge on exhaust systems, your technical input is greatly appreciated. Its good to see that there is someone out there willing to help out with advice rather than just saying drop your car off and I’ll fix it then give you the bill.

I’ll give you a call over the next couple of weeks to do the exhaust on the zook. How else can one say thank you.

Cheers,

GBC wrote:Dear Doctor Exhausts,

G'day.

Car a) 3.4 l V6 lux - is it worth messing with the stock exhaust?

Car b) Subaru B4 (H4 Twin turbo) - Update model which runs the servo controlled second dump to spool up the secondary quicker? Have been told not to play with it, but jeez I'd like it to sound like a real one and maybe go a little better....

I await your promise of an extra 50 kw atw for $800.00 per vehicle

Bluefreak wrote:Hi there Ross... Have an '03 Triton 3.0L V6. Managed by leaseplan so was wondering whether you have dealt with them before or are willing to do so in the future? Would like to upgrade to extractors and a more open system, 3000km till the warranty is up. What would you recommend and are you willing to deal with people who can supply their own materials? Can get 2.5" 316 SS tube from work and figure you supplying labour, cat and mufflers would still work out cheaper than a new system from Mitsu...

BTW, top effort on all this tech... Nice to see people who actually want to help instead of just line their own pockets. Hope you get plenty of work out of the members.

xenith wrote:doc ex u told danels to run 3" or so of 2.5" pipe out of turbo then fler to 3" for vortex efict. concur on 3"s of 2.5 for vortex but have found small gains from steeping stright out to 3" i think it is due to vortes been created by step in pipe size whats your thoughts mate
looking forward to your replay

phippsy wrote:big for all the help in here.

Was wondering, I've got a 3L hilux engine with an aftermarket turbo. Has a dump pipe to a flex joint then a brace to the bellhousing and down too the rest of the exhaust.
Seems to be a problem where the whole exhaust shakes around a lot because the flex is basically bolted to the engine. Would it be worth putting another flex joint in at the first flange after the bellhousing bracket to stop the whole thing shaking?

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

DanielS wrote:Gday Ross,

I'm setting up my td42 with a garret ball bearing GT25 turbo, the exhaust housing on this unit is quite small. At this stage I'm looking at squashing a 3" pipe to pick up the waste gate aswell to create my dump pipe, would this be the best opition to get the flow and heat out of the turbo?. I will be making the backing plate this friday ( to mate up to the exhaust housing) so any help would be great.

Regards

Daniels

hi

this turbo you are using may have a small exhaust outlet there is no advantage in squashing a 3" pipe into a smaller outlet
if you can get a plate cut that gives you more internal size for your pipe that would be good
but if not you could use 2.5" for the first 3 " and flare tehe end in a cone shape to take the 3" pipe
when you have a small turbo outlet you do not always have to go large out of the back of it , volume is important but by having a small piece of pipe for a couple of inches you create a vortex efect wich will give you very good gas speed this is just as important

i hope his helps
thanks
ross

Utemad wrote:Hi Doc Exhaust.

What would be your opinion for an optimum exhaust for a 1996 Landrover Discovery with the 3.9 V8 automatic?

It would be nice to also achieve a good V8 note for it as well

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

Bluefreak wrote:Hi there Ross... Have an '03 Triton 3.0L V6. Managed by leaseplan so was wondering whether you have dealt with them before or are willing to do so in the future? Would like to upgrade to extractors and a more open system, 3000km till the warranty is up. What would you recommend and are you willing to deal with people who can supply their own materials? Can get 2.5" 316 SS tube from work and figure you supplying labour, cat and mufflers would still work out cheaper than a new system from Mitsu...

BTW, top effort on all this tech... Nice to see people who actually want to help instead of just line their own pockets. Hope you get plenty of work out of the members.

i could do an uprade system you if you wish i would have to talk to your lease people mabye you could supply me with 316 tube at the right price

daveo wrote:gday Doc,

i have a 5L (3.0l) non turbo diesel hilux, what sort of gains can be expected from a better exhaust system and what should i be looking at? can you reccomend a brand of extractors and what size pipe? not looking to spend too much, but dont mind paying a bit extra for good quality gear rather than cheap crap that wont last.

i also tried to get some heat shield from repco, which is listed as a supplier of that ACL stuff, but they didnt have any. can anybody tell me where you can get it, or a similar product, in brisbane, pref western suburbs.

thanks in advance


i would get a set of pacemaker extractors
and run a strait through 2.25" one muffler
your gain on this is a little hard but i know when you climb a hill in top gear you always seem to have to change down to get over the top after you do the exhaust you will find it will hold up enough revs to climb over without changing down

sorry about the weird explenation
dave

GUEEY wrote:Hi there

I am about to pick up a 99 GU TD42T, and the exhuast and turbo system is stock.
i have herd that the preformance is improved with a better choice of exhaust system.
What can you surggest from your experiance.

Cheers Grant.

ofr57 wrote:G'day

I'm just wondering if there would be problems doing a 2 inch exactors , hot dog muffler , 2inch exhaust pipe all the way and a trumpet tip
(old school thing)

do i have to make my own trumpet or do exhaust shops still make them