Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Yes, I have been looking at that for years, a great design solving many problems, but a zook doesn't have enough room for one (in my opinion)

anyone got info on a cable style trac bar??? surely something more fluid like a cable is better suited and less likely to cause binding?

hyzook wrote:

I must have missed this photo, keep a very close eye on your shackle mount as it WILL fatigue and pull away if your car gets much action.

Not meaning to offend you but looking the underside of your car, it doesnt look like it gets much of a thrashing so you may be OK.
Peter.

fool_injected wrote:

hyzook wrote:blah blah blha
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/

[im]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u30/ ... 0_0524.jpg[/img]

[im]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u30/ ... 0_0520.jpg[/img]

I swear last time I saw that trackbar of yours it wasn't that straight

Hours of fun

droopypete wrote:

hyzook wrote:
I must have missed this photo, keep a very close eye on your shackle mount as it WILL fatigue and pull away if your car gets much action.

Not meaning to offend you but looking the underside of your car, it doesnt look like it gets much of a thrashing so you may be OK.
Peter.

Thanks, to date I have not noticed any fatigue though I will keep an eye on this . Is this stated due to its particular design, i.e would you have done it different or due to normal forces placed upon it.

Oh and no offence taken, this pic was taken 1 week after the car was just built, (the body wax inside the rails is still yellow )

hyzook wrote:

droopypete wrote:

hyzook wrote:
I must have missed this photo, keep a very close eye on your shackle mount as it WILL fatigue and pull away if your car gets much action.

Not meaning to offend you but looking the underside of your car, it doesnt look like it gets much of a thrashing so you may be OK.
Peter.

Thanks, to date I have not noticed any fatigue though I will keep an eye on this . Is this stated due to its particular design, i.e would you have done it different or due to normal forces placed upon it.

Oh and no offence taken, this pic was taken 1 week after the car was just built, (the body wax inside the rails is still yellow )

I did it exactly the same the first time around, it is almost a photo of my car (except for the yellow wax )
and I ended up with vertical cracks on both sides of the cross member, that were repaired a few times, this time I have a new cross member.
Peter.

droopypete wrote:

hyzook wrote:

droopypete wrote:

hyzook wrote:
I must have missed this photo, keep a very close eye on your shackle mount as it WILL fatigue and pull away if your car gets much action.

Not meaning to offend you but looking the underside of your car, it doesnt look like it gets much of a thrashing so you may be OK.
Peter.

Thanks, to date I have not noticed any fatigue though I will keep an eye on this . Is this stated due to its particular design, i.e would you have done it different or due to normal forces placed upon it.

Oh and no offence taken, this pic was taken 1 week after the car was just built, (the body wax inside the rails is still yellow )

I did it exactly the same the first time around, it is almost a photo of my car (except for the yellow wax )
and I ended up with vertical cracks on both sides of the cross member, that were repaired a few times, this time I have a new cross member.
Peter.

I'll keep an eye on this, thanks for the tip

Yeah Im as Droopypete has said pretty much onto my third bar now, first one was just week and ripped the thread out on the rose joint. Second one was okay still single bar new mountings and bigger rose joint it put pressure on my transfer case and I broke the mounts.

So now Im on the third one going a shackle welded on a box section that runs across the chassis bolted with 'U' bolts and also bolted to the body of my sierra as a rear floor support. Have made the top mount and run the top bar. As others have said the area to work in is just so small and running a longer bar is near on impossible, Im going to experiment with the new setup and the shackles to see if I can keep things from binding on full flex if not limit the flex before it gets to a certain point...?



Have cut down combination of 80 series and Patrol panhard bars for the job.


Not quite finished but will post when Im finished.

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Yeah Im as Droopypete has said pretty much onto my third bar now, first one was just week and ripped the thread out on the rose joint. Second one was okay still single bar new mountings and bigger rose joint it put pressure on my transfer case and I broke the mounts.

So now Im on the third one going a shackle welded on a box section that runs across the chassis bolted with 'U' bolts and also bolted to the body of my sierra as a rear floor support. Have made the top mount and run the top bar. As others have said the area to work in is just so small and running a longer bar is near on impossible, Im going to experiment with the new setup and the shackles to see if I can keep things from binding on full flex if not limit the flex before it gets to a certain point...?

when u do get that all braced up it will end up tearing a chunk out of your diff as the metal is too weak for the force you will be putting thru it at that point
just a thought as i happened to me

11_evl wrote: when u do get that all braced up it will end up tearing a chunk out of your diff as the metal is too weak for the force you will be putting thru it at that point
just a thought as i happened to me

Sadly this is correct MUD-PIGSIERRA, you will will be building your 4th one soon
Peter.

or you could just stay SPUA and not have to worry about these

grimbo wrote:or you could just stay SPUA and not have to worry about these

or leave it parked in the shed... or sell it off...

both of these will elliviate your need to perform later repairs.

greg wrote:

grimbo wrote:or you could just stay SPUA and not have to worry about these

or leave it parked in the shed... or sell it off...

both of these will elliviate your need to perform later repairs.

2 options Graham has already tried
Peter.

PS, hi Greg

greg can you please shoot me a PM I can't seem to get any messages through to you for some reason

Hello Senor Pete,

You could also ditch the Sierra and go get a real one like my Disco!!
It has it's own coils as standard!!!!!!!!

so anyway - bringing this back on topic.... lol

i have minor spring wrap under 1st and 2nd gear heavy acceleration, diff dips maybe 1" if im lucky but its enough to give vibrations....

anyone got a suggested style bar to remedy this??? Pics of the flex are in the link below. (thats not quite fully flexed either, still another 2" to go).

grimbo wrote:or you could just stay SPUA and not have to worry about these

Wheres the fun in that....? Though in taking on whats been said, Im only running 31"s my mount on the diff is on the axle tube and mounts around half the circumference of the axle tube, not of the side of the pumpkin...... So yeah Ill post up some pics when i get to build number 4 then........

Maybe Ill add some extra gusseting while im at it...

depending on how u drive. your diff will look like this in 2 months.. im only running 31s as well

Anyone seen or have or heard about the sky bolt on traction bar....? Our Dollar is buying about .92c US at the mom maybe its the go.....?:?





On another note I need to run one as a part of my registration, I also have to run a front Panhard bar as well so having something that works

^^ that looks pretty awesome! i like how they singled out the 2 bars like that, my only concern would be the force applied to the housing through those screws...

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:

grimbo wrote:or you could just stay SPUA and not have to worry about these

Wheres the fun in that....? Though in taking on whats been said, Im only running 31"s my mount on the diff is on the axle tube and mounts around half the circumference of the axle tube, not of the side of the pumpkin...... So yeah Ill post up some pics when i get to build number 4 then........

Maybe Ill add some extra gusseting while im at it...

I dont mean to have a go, but the more weld you put into the tube the more it will let go.
Peter.

[quote="Larry the Leper"]Hello Senor Pete,

You could also ditch the Sierra and go get a real one like my Disco!!
It has it's own coils as standard!!!!!!!! [/quote]


I don't know what is funnier,
the fact that you posted that
or that you actualy beleive it!
Peter.

alien wrote: my only concern would be the force applied to the housing through those screws...

I agree, but there seems to be some nuts inside the bracket, perhaps indicating a u bolt around the axle tube or similar, this would do very little to combat rotational force on the tube but would sure help in preventing the thing being peeled off the diff centre.
Peter.

yeah i checked the site - its Ubolted on there... i suppose tabs could be welded to the housing next to the Ubolts to stop it rotating... unless theyre welding perches to the diff for the u-bolts?

Anyone got better images of this bar??? im quite interested....

droopypete wrote: I dont mean to have a go, but the more weld you put into the tube the more it will let go.
Peter.

Well I guess the hole would be bigger. I don't want to come across as ignorant as to the pics and the experience everyone has contributed, but if your doing a fillet weld to a area in length of say of of 2"inches and then compare that to the same situation but weld 4" inches your spreading the area in which the load is transferred too, therefore reducing your chance of breakage...?

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:

droopypete wrote: I dont mean to have a go, but the more weld you put into the tube the more it will let go.
Peter.

Well I guess the hole would be bigger. I don't want to come across as ignorant as to the pics and the experience everyone has contributed, but if your doing a fillet weld to a area in length of say of of 2"inches and then compare that to the same situation but weld 4" inches your spreading the area in which the load is transferred too, therefore reducing your chance of breakage...?

I'm new to welding, still almost virginal.
But what I understand is: longer welding time, larger area = more heat to the metal, thus increasing the chance of weakening the metal itself, not the weld? Tho an expert would know how to avoid that prob.
But I could be talkin from me bumm

christover

Yeah not putting to much heat into the area you weld, so doing small sections of at a time, how much you heat the object your welding to before you weld. How you cool it after its finished. Can all effect how it turns out.

droopypete wrote: so I am onto the mach 3.
I will post some pics as I go and you can hang shyte on my welds
Peter.

How is all this going Droopy.....? Come on get some pics up for us all I want to sort out mine and need some ideas....

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Yeah not putting to much heat into the area you weld, so doing small sections of at a time, how much you heat the object your welding to before you weld. How you cool it after its finished. Can all effect how it turns out.

Just put a vertical plate (running along the top of the axle tube) 200 or 300mm long or whatever - cut the corners off to make it look pretty - thats welded behind the 2 vertical bush mounting plates in your picture.

Then do the same sort of thing on the front edge of the 2 vertical bush mounting plates to pick up 200 to 300mm of the bottom of the axle tube. This plate will have to be notched to clear the lower traction bar mount.

So now instead of the 2 vertical mounting trying to rip out 75mm of axle tube it will have to rip out 300mm of axle tube.

Edit - here is a dodgy arse picture...



Sam

Hey Strange Rover... LoL I like your dodgy picture it looks good, I guess the more contact area the better chance of it not self destructing... And well if it does I guess its time for Patrol diffs or something...

A friend and I are part of the recovery crew up here for the Mud racing and on the weekend was the finals and I had the chance to check out the suspension setups of the Open class racers, now these are guys running Nitrous nothing smaller than 350ci Chevs and what not, hell one of them is a 460 race motor from the states, yet most are still fairly standard running gear but one had two control arms running from the top of the pumpkin no gusseting or anything and these guys go hard all I can assume is that either these diff housings are alot thicker or they have really well thought out suspension setups....?