Outer Limits 4x4 Board

NJV6 wrote:

Where is NZ is that. Looks like the South Island?

Yep, I am from right down deep south in Southland.

cue dileverance music...

WACKO wrote:cue deliverance music...

You would have got away with it if only you'd spelt it right. So which one is your house again?

mines the big red and white one down the bottom... was a nice place to live till you and your family started to do your hilllbilly impression of an apartment building.

Been a while since an update

110000 km ticked over this month

Oil change. Radiator clean due to needing to pull it out due to filling it with mud and then being assured the temp guage works, for the 1st time in 4 years I saw it move above half way. Reassuring to know it actually works.

Checked all oils - good. Pulled rear brake assembly apart (again) and this time was plesantly surprised to see the pads were not gone after a good clean last time, I had only got about 3000km a set!
Last two trips a funny sounds from the rear brakes - looks like the hand brake pads are down to brass and so time for replacement. What pricks of thngs when they end in a pile of bits on the ground!! Reassambled as I hope to investigate the fitting of some sort of disc hand brake that should be more effective.

Steering is very vague on centre with a bit of wheel movement to make anything happen, but it still tracked nicely. So I tried tightening the adjustor, this made it twitchy and track terribly! So will leave that to someone who know what they are doing.

Flashing lights have all disappeared! The front actuator was a bit sticky after being apart getting the ARB but now works great and the rear diff lock light works as it should. It probably hadn't been used ever and with plenty of use by myself it works great.

Having two lockers is pretty cool, makes things easy, also easy to get into trouble, I can see how rollovers happen when climbing as it just keeps climbing with a front wheel doing a wicked Pajero salute.

I have a vibration that comes in, most noticeable over 100km but it is enough below it to be a pain and I have no idea where it comes from. I think it is since i have put the new diff in the rear. This new diff had alot of Km's already under its belt (290k).

When doing 120km on jack stands the rear left wheel has a fine wobble....
A friend and long time mechanic has a Yagiemeister bet on that it is a bent rear axle....

I'm hoping its a rim! I don't believe it can be an axle as the donor for the rear diff and housing was rolled but rolled on the drivers side.

Time will tell and enough of the ramblings.

if it was an axle it would have been present before you put the new locker in wouldnt it?

NJV6 wrote:When doing 120km on jack stands the rear left wheel has a fine wobble....
A friend and long time mechanic has a Yagiemeister bet on that it is a bent rear axle....

I'm hoping its a rim! I don't believe it can be an axle as the donor for the rear diff and housing was rolled but rolled on the drivers side.

A bent axle doesn't need to be related to the roll - could be excessive air time by a previous owner. Fastest way to isolate a rim problem would be to swap rear tyres side to side. Doesn't need to be a permanent thing - just while it's on stands, see if the problem moves or stays.

Vibration has been put in too hard basket for now.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ftopic171657.php

Next mod was twin batteries.

I took my original battery tray and cut the end off it, got another identical tray and cut the other end off it, cut it to the right length then welded them together.

Drilled some new mounts into the side panel, made a bracket that supports the 2nd battery cradle and it went pretty well.

Found a 2.8 Diesel earth lead (which is probably twice the size of mine) and added that for the 2nd battery and joined the two +ve's with some cable. All done for the price of 1 battery terminal and 1 battery.









Oveerhauled the Alternator - it was only putting out 30amps on the test bench, most things were shorted out inside - the joys of water and mud and terrible altinator placement.

Mounted the new winch controller and need to get onto the wiring this weekend. Getting some welding leads for the least power drop getting to the winch motor.

HELLO, ME LOOKS GREAT THE MODIFICATION OF YOUR VEHICLE HERE IN VENEZUELA AS LITTLE WANT THESE CARS, I HAVE A WORKSHOP HERE IN VALENCIA VENEZUELA Y ME HE SPECIALIZED IN THIS MODEL MITSUBISHI MONTERO, V6 3000cc engine, 4.6 and 4.8 DIFF MANUAL TRANSMISSION, BUT YOU KNOW IS HARD TO GET SOME PARTS.

WHO CAN HELP ME, OR GET THERE THERE A CONNECTION IN AUSTRALIA shorter for DIFF. front And rear because here only achieved 4.63 and 4.88

IF ANYONE CAN I provide this information I would appreciate

Hi, I am new to this forum, recently got a 2.5 tdi soft top J Top Paj. I am from Indonesia and it is not a common 4x4 here. It is very difficult to get pajero parts supplier in Indonesia. I really appreciate if someone can point me out the spareparts supplier some where in NZ or Aussy coz i am planning to rebuild my pajero. Thanks a bunch!

cocntact this guy, he might be able to help you out as he did for my friend
i only know email. postolino@hotmail.com
cheers

this is a great post, thanks heaps.

Nice little build up. Very informative read.

Well, another update.









The steepest bank I have ever been down!







The Paj has had a great life, taken me so many places but the engine may have done one of its last trips, tis a bit disappointing, it just started smoking really badly on overrun or started after switched off. Just now an engine overhaul is not on the cards either, it was really random. Was fine one minute then just started the next. The inlet manifold was full of clean oil, most likely come from the breather which is meant to be sucking, not blowing!!

We have put a catch can on it to see what that does but its not looking hopeful at this stage...

Sorry to hear.

DiD conversion.

Hi Glen

Thats sad to hear about your engine hopefully the catch can idea will keep it going for a bit longer, Try a bottle of Wynns worn engine treatment, does wonders with smokey engines to get them through for a WOF, I add engine stops leaks to mine help with the valve stem seals, doesnt burn much oil anymore, and I use the MSL mitsy oil seem to work better than other oils I have tryed

Cheers Nick

Thanks Nick, I might try it, i'll see how the catch can thing works for a bit. It is wierd how quickly it happened, just started half way out from macetown, was fine then stopped at the gate to shut it, restarted and it smelt like POOZE !!!! Sad thing is, it still goes so well and has good compressions

DiD would be great to transplant Scott but $$$$$$$!

Valve stem seals possibly

Nice update, driven like it should be.

Yep, Valve stem seals would usually cause smoke on start up only, perhaps one split?, and if the compression is good then you havn't snapped a ring or BHG.

The oil in intake would not be unusual really, every engine has a bit of blowby, more so if is getting driven hard.

Quick check of the PCV system perhaps? Unlikely to cause smoke, but perhaps all the oil in the plenum is coming via the PCV, then getting burnt?

"The PCV system is easily checked with the engine running at normal idle speed (warmed up). Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover, but leave it connected to its hose. Place your thumb over the end of the valve to check for vacuum. If there is no vacuum, check for plugged hoses or ports. If these are open, the valve is faulty. With the engine off, remove the PCV valve completely. Shake it end to end, listening for the rattle of the needle inside the valve. Generally, if no rattle is heard, the needle is jammed (probably with oil sludge) and the valve should be replaced. If the valve is a threaded type, it may be necessary to use a thin probe inserted in the threaded end to check for plunger motion. If no motion is felt, replace the valve."
(Thanks autozone.com)

Through a stroke of luck I may have found the problem!!!!!

In trying to get my front diff to disconnect, I noticed the vacuum lines full of oil.... So I was blowing them all out with air and one of them spat back at me....

When the garage had the diff out last they put the air line from the diff (breather) to the tee by the solinoids. And the vacuum canister just went to air. So this meant the engine was effectively sucking diff oil into the inlet manifold! As the diff had no breather, it filled up with water and when it was full it started smoking as it started running on diff oil.
Explains why it happened half way through a trip involving lots of water crossings.

Crossing fingers that that has solved it, and also crossing fingers my Air Locker is ok, it was sitting in water for almost 6 weeks. I have flushed the system. The Pajero is still smoking on start up when hot (not as bad) but it will take a while to burn the oil in the inlet manifold and i've only done 30km since fixing it.

1000km this weekend (off to Haast Nick ) will hopefully sort it, cross fingers everyone!

That's good news! Pays to do a little investigation I guess. The mighty paj lives again!

Went like a dream!

Except the brakes kinda work, starter sometimes works, transfer case front output leaks (had to laugh at your thread pjb!), thrust bearing making a hell of a racket, but what a trip. The Paj floats and runs underwater, photos and video to come.

Hi Glen,
Great to see that you found out the true problem with the 3.5 and glad for you that it wasn't something critical, with the lump, so the old bu**er is still getting you out of the deep dirty brown stuff and I dont only mean MUD either LOL.

Still waiting to see the virginal run of the pavlova, thought you would have had it out and about, by now. Anyway Glen you take it easy lad all the best Jack.

Alright, it's been a few days........where's the promised video . Really looking forward to it, you guys have some beautiful places to ride.

From 5 years ago

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MI-K8ER_oTs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJRGy5_Ljgs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtRG9KL3PYk

Another vid...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hhq6S9x3 ... r_embedded#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;!

So after a bit of underwater winching etc, and a bit more abuse at local events the winch just stopped, no lead or anything, just stopped.

Not a solinoid issue. Pulled the end cap off the motor and suspected a bad earth, tapped around the end with a jumper lead to earth and away it went. Did a few more trips then it died again so did some investigation.

Warn 4.6 motors did have a bit of a rep for bad earths and I sorted this when it first stopped about 5 years ago. Got 2 more earths drilled and tapped around the brushes way back then......

Circled below is the only earth clamped piece on a factory motor, the rest is relied on the 'end cap' bolted on for a good fit.


So we put two extra fittings on (drilled and tapped - 25mm screw)


Since then the motor has been going great guns, solinoids became an issue to in went an integrated pack with 50mm lines


And then just this last weekend when winching out a Toyota it stopped dead. I pulled the motor off and saw one brush earth a bit loose so went to tighten it, totally stripped and melted away


Drilled and tapped both earth brushes and re-did the extra earth's and its away again, stronger than ever! Been a great winch once the 'issues' were sorted!

NJV6 wrote:Another vid...

...So after a bit of underwater winching etc, and a bit more abuse at local events the winch just stopped, no lead or anything, just stopped.
...

Nice work, but ... i think you might have a repeater problem...