Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
hot hot hot
Fark! Mate, mine sits at just above halfway almost all the time. For the record, on several occasions when I have changed the coolant in any engine, I have found the temp sender has given up after been left dry for several hours. First time, I thought coincidence, then the umpteen times after, I have learnt. If the temp guage is different after a coolant change, just get a new sender. Don't know why and I don't care, it just is. Weird though.
[quote="bazooked"]can i use a mate to position while i screw? :twisted:[/quote]
talking about just for the record, i never did put that new thermostat in as this was my post in the begining and i haven't had a problem other than it takes a little longer to warm up i have being off road many many times and plenty of long trips down the high way from brisbane to south coast and once warm it never leaves more than a few mm either way from half on the gage.
feenz.
this is an old post what made you go through it i think you liked the bitch'n didn't you
feenz.
this is an old post what made you go through it i think you liked the bitch'n didn't you
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
fan
I just read my old reply where i said that the temp had nothing to do with the fan at 80-100km/hr. Well all i can say is that i was very wrong!!!! After taking the fan out, drilling a few holes and filling it up with silicon oil the overheating has totally gone. On really hot days you can hear fan fan working hard at 100km/hr. Temp now sits under half with a/c on and 40 outside.
GQII Patrol YAY!!
to that i can add, years ago in my hq 350sbc monaro i decided to put 2 12" thermos and remove the fan from motor to get a few more ponies out of it, well i very nearly cooked her it didnt mater how fast i was going, it was not going to cool down, i had to stop start all the way home to stop it from boiling, so i guess even at 100ks plus the fan is still drawing air so now i'll keep the fan and lose a few ponies but i know i'll get home.
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
the water just cools down to a certian temp based on the amount of water you have flowing around and what size the radiator is.
V8's need a big radiator to hold enough water/coolant so enough heat produced from the V8 is taken away and the size of the radiator is able to cool down the heat in the water/coolant.
You'll never cool it right down only to a certain point maybe a bit below what the air temp is really.
water isn't the best thing to use as once it gets past boiling it's turning into steam, coolant doesn't have that problem but won't get as cool as pure water will.
That's the trade off you have to deal with.
Thermosat's hummm don't know.
Standard temp guages are useless anyway, they only tell you if theres water flowing past the temp meter really, they go up in temp when there isn't enough flow or not enough water flowing past the temp meter and go down when there's too much flow happening.
They aren't a proper temp guage, more a flow meter than temp.
because if you run out of water the temp goes up as there's less and less water flowing past the temp guage so if it's going up all the time you might have a crack or a leak some where could also be clogged up somewhere.
a busted head gasket will make the stock temp guage go up as well as the water flows into the oil and vice verser.
V8's need a big radiator to hold enough water/coolant so enough heat produced from the V8 is taken away and the size of the radiator is able to cool down the heat in the water/coolant.
You'll never cool it right down only to a certain point maybe a bit below what the air temp is really.
water isn't the best thing to use as once it gets past boiling it's turning into steam, coolant doesn't have that problem but won't get as cool as pure water will.
That's the trade off you have to deal with.
Thermosat's hummm don't know.
Standard temp guages are useless anyway, they only tell you if theres water flowing past the temp meter really, they go up in temp when there isn't enough flow or not enough water flowing past the temp meter and go down when there's too much flow happening.
They aren't a proper temp guage, more a flow meter than temp.
because if you run out of water the temp goes up as there's less and less water flowing past the temp guage so if it's going up all the time you might have a crack or a leak some where could also be clogged up somewhere.
a busted head gasket will make the stock temp guage go up as well as the water flows into the oil and vice verser.
i'm having a few probs with the old mk sd33 she sits a 1/4 round town and just putting round the bush but up hill and highway getts to 1/2 -3/4 somtimes a touch higher 
a touch scary.
i was going to rip the fan off and run a 16" thermo and if need be another thermo say 12" in front. A to pick up a bit of pony power and B hopefully keep the old girl a bit cooler.
I know that ripping the fan off gives a bit more power as i did it when i had a 720 and replaced the fan with an airconditioner fan of a magna and it worked a treat. I towed a trailor for work and i could barely sit at 100 and temp was always ay 3/4 after fan was gone i could sit on 100 no probs and temp at 1/2 so to me this is good. and i think it should work good on the old pootrol
Just my experience
a touch scary. i was going to rip the fan off and run a 16" thermo and if need be another thermo say 12" in front. A to pick up a bit of pony power and B hopefully keep the old girl a bit cooler.
I know that ripping the fan off gives a bit more power as i did it when i had a 720 and replaced the fan with an airconditioner fan of a magna and it worked a treat. I towed a trailor for work and i could barely sit at 100 and temp was always ay 3/4 after fan was gone i could sit on 100 no probs and temp at 1/2 so to me this is good. and i think it should work good on the old pootrol
Just my experience
im yet to understand y ppl seem to have heating probs with SD33 engines... neither of mine have looked like it......
puting a thermo fan on istead isnt a bad idea. puting anotherone infront of the rad aswell, bad idea. unless they are both set up just right, and have the right pich on the blades, you will almost certainly find that one is doing sweet fa. worst case, they will work against each other and actualy make heating prob worse....
if the back fan is pulling thru more than the front is pushing, the front will actualy end up blocking air from going thru the rad. if the front fan is doing more work the back one can actualy create a buffer infront of it that keeps all the warm air sitting inside the fins of the rad(not 100% sure how this one works, not enuf to be able to explain it anyway) essentialy the rad would just have virtualy still air in it getting warmer and warmer
puting a thermo fan on istead isnt a bad idea. puting anotherone infront of the rad aswell, bad idea. unless they are both set up just right, and have the right pich on the blades, you will almost certainly find that one is doing sweet fa. worst case, they will work against each other and actualy make heating prob worse....
if the back fan is pulling thru more than the front is pushing, the front will actualy end up blocking air from going thru the rad. if the front fan is doing more work the back one can actualy create a buffer infront of it that keeps all the warm air sitting inside the fins of the rad(not 100% sure how this one works, not enuf to be able to explain it anyway) essentialy the rad would just have virtualy still air in it getting warmer and warmer
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 19 guests