Outer Limits 4x4 Board

For the record the "VL turbo" fuel pump is the same as any commodore pump from VL (even non turbo) to VS 8 and 6.

lol not all pumps are made equal... some will give u more performance;) and a few extra inches and u wont even have to stroke your big block 1.6l

danssurf82 wrote:lol not all pumps are made equal... some will give u more performance;) and a few extra inches and u wont even have to stroke your big block 1.6l

pretty sure the pump is shagged, we lowered the pump to the point the fuel was siphing to it, hit the power and you can fell the pump get power but it doesnt buzz like its spinning or pump any fuel out.

p.s fuel tastes like shit lol.

back to the wreckers to dig out a new one - interesting the same pump is available in vs etc as well. opens up a bit better availablity.

After the VL commodore the fuel pumps moved from external to internal. You can strip the pump out of the MRA assembly but its just easier to run an early VL one (dont worry about turbo/non turbo, just get any of them).

Layto....

I would be looking at a new pump. they are not terribly expensive and you have the warm fuzzy feeling of knowing it will work properly when you plug it in

love_mud wrote:I would be looking at a new pump. they are not terribly expensive and you have the warm fuzzy feeling of knowing it will work properly when you plug it in

the faulty pump came from a wreck so they just swapped it over for me, new one works fine...

but apparently that isnt the only reason this conversion hasnt fired up yet.

any local geniouses (sp?) who want to come and have a look im running low on ideas.

4age into sierra.

Start from the basics. The motor needs spark, fuel and compression applied at the right time to fire. I am guessing you have compression so do you have spark? If yes, do you have injector pulses. If yes do you have fuel pressure at the injectors. Start at the basics and work through.

Layto.....

lay80n wrote:Start from the basics. The motor needs spark, fuel and compression applied at the right time to fire. I am guessing you have compression so do you have spark? If yes, do you have injector pulses. If yes do you have fuel pressure at the injectors. Start at the basics and work through.

Layto.....

Been trying to do that, but never had to fault find when you cant be 100% sure its not 2 issues or more but we are getting there.

spark and fuel pressure i believe are fine.

We have finally sorted a coil gremlin and have spark - i.e the engine didnt start but did pop/fire. so I want to check the timing is at least close - dizzy was loosened off during install and might be to far out to start, but to dark to persist checking that tonight.

One thing i do want to check is the injector system and im not familiar with them to the point of testing. Can the pulse be tested with a volt meter or is it to fast to register on a meter? if so how do you check?

Thanks again for any tips.

so i've been looking at getting a spartan locker for the back of my sierra, only thing is 2 people i know told me not to put one in the back because it can make the car do a flip when going up a hill or something is there any truth in this? i cant really see it happening

Where are they suggesting you put it? On the shelf?

Are they suggesting you shouldn't run a locker in the rear of a sierra at all?

Sure, more traction can drive you into a bigger angle before you stop, but we've had some cars on some pretty radical angles over the years and you'll run out of balls well before the car looks like doing a "flip". Rolling the car backwards end-over will take momentum. (i.e hitting it hard) That's not a locker issue, it's a driving style issue. With a locker, you can drive the same obstacle slower, so there's less likelihood of a "flip" in my book.

Steve.

low enough gearing and a steep enough climb combined with a total lack of throttle control can result in a backwards end over end flip...especially in something light and short like a sierra!

ive seen a video on youtube of an orange samurai flip over backwards after trying to climb a hill with no momentum and giving it heaps of gas in a low gear (obviously had crawlers)

I cant find it now though :(

didnt think it would really be an issue. i know a guy with 4.9's and a t-case i can get for cheap so that will be the next thing after the locker lol dont think i'd drive it hard enough to flip it

Is there any difference in chassis width between a nt and wt?
I need to convert the front of my nt ute chassis to wt to fit my lux front diff.
I had the idea of cutting of the front section of a wt chassis and sticking it on my nt ute chassis. I do have a sky conversion kit to move the spring perchs in to match the wt mounts.
If it is possible it would half the work needed for the conversion, and be a lot easier to do then moving mounts individually.

Hmm, sort of, but if you think that cutting a chassis in 1/2 and welding a new bit on is less of a problem than moving a couple of brackets, I'm concerned.

The NT and WT chassis are basically the same, however, the WT chassis has more bracing around the front body mount/spring hanger area, so ideally, you'd want the cut to be behind the firewall or you'd still have to do 1/2 the work you were trying to save (moving the rear spring hanger mounts), along with trying to get both halves of the chassis properly aligned and enough strength back in to the chassis after you were finished. Add in that that area is full of brake and fuel lines, the body is on top etc, and you're in for a lot of work. (because installing and properly welding the required doubling plates would be difficult)

Add in that in that area the chassis is widening, the cuts would have to be very accurate.

I think if you were able to confidently tackle cutting, welding (and adequately strengthening) a chassis, you'd easily see moving the spring hangers on your existing chassis is preferable, and that's why I'm concerned.

PS we switched a WT chassis to NT spacing in the front in an afternoon, and that included doing the spring perches.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:Hmm, sort of, but if you think that cutting a chassis in 1/2 and welding a new bit on is less of a problem than moving a couple of brackets, I'm concerned.

The NT and WT chassis are basically the same, however, the WT chassis has more bracing around the front body mount/spring hanger area, so ideally, you'd want the cut to be behind the firewall or you'd still have to do 1/2 the work you were trying to save (moving the rear spring hanger mounts), along with trying to get both halves of the chassis properly aligned and enough strength back in to the chassis after you were finished. Add in that that area is full of brake and fuel lines, the body is on top etc, and you're in for a lot of work. (because installing and properly welding the required doubling plates would be difficult)

Add in that in that area the chassis is widening, the cuts would have to be very accurate.

I think if you were able to confidently tackle cutting, welding (and adequately strengthening) a chassis, you'd easily see moving the spring hangers on your existing chassis is preferable, and that's why I'm concerned.

PS we switched a WT chassis to NT spacing in the front in an afternoon, and that included doing the spring perches.

Steve.

Sorry i should of explained more, the chassis i have is completely stripped so cutting and welding on it is no problem. There is damage to the front tube cross-member, I thought that since i need to move the mounts out, replace the damaged cross-member and extend the chassis (for ruf with standard shackles) grafting on a section of wt chassis could be worthwhile. I was thinking of cutting my chassis where the radiator mounts are and replacing it with a wt section, i would then move out the rear mounts to suit. The joins would be strengthened with internal plates plug welded in and plates over the join.

any thoughts?

I'd rework the front of the chassis properly to get the steering box in the right place, a stronger front recovery point, and cleaner overall result. I don't think it's as much extra work as it looks.

If you were doing the cut behind the first body mount to get the braced rear spring hangers of the WT and have no spring hanger issues to deal with, then I almost see the point, except then you still have to hack up the WT chassis to do the steering unless you are using a wedge/jimny or something.

Steve.

silly questions you say!

i'll fit right in

hit the ball off with this then.

i'm keen on my 4wd. it's an X-90

i've got a 2"suspension lift my next steps??

leave the 2" lift guard cut liek crazy to fit some 29-30" tires..

or go a 3" lift and guard cut to fit 29-30" tires?? i'm currently using the 2" lift with no cuts and am running 27.1" Fire stone ASR. with minimul room... so what's your thoughts???

Abs!!!

Hey guys,

Looking for an ignition coil for my Sierra 85' model.

Does anyone know which one i need?

Cheers!

hi there im putting in an ARB airlocker front and rear in my stockman this weekend and are just after some data on my diffs eg tensions, preloads that i will need if you could replay that would be awsome.

Do steering wheels or bosses off swifts or other suzuki's fit on a sierra? (are all the sierra's the same spline count for that matter) Looking for a cheap steering wheel upgrade option until I have the coin for something nice.

abraxix wrote:silly questions you say!

i'll fit right in

hit the ball off with this then.

i'm keen on my 4wd. it's an X-90

i've got a 2"suspension lift my next steps??

leave the 2" lift guard cut liek crazy to fit some 29-30" tires..

or go a 3" lift and guard cut to fit 29-30" tires?? i'm currently using the 2" lift with no cuts and am running 27.1" Fire stone ASR. with minimul room... so what's your thoughts???

Abs!!!

Body Lift will give you more clearance for bigger tyres than more suspension. Exactly what you need will depend on which state you're in. Not too familiar with the specifics of the X-90, but the Sierras take a 2" BL easily, and that should get you up to 29s, maybe 30s with a little bit of bashing.

shakes wrote:Do steering wheels or bosses off swifts or other suzuki's fit on a sierra? (are all the sierra's the same spline count for that matter) Looking for a cheap steering wheel upgrade option until I have the coin for something nice.

Not sure about Sierras, but if it helps the Swift bosses fit the Vitara splines...

Yes shakes - all suzuki steering wheel splines I've come across are the same.

That covers Baleno, Swift, Vitara, 1.3 and 1.0 sierra, and Cappuccino.

Bear in mind the pins that cancel the indicators aren't always in the right spot, or the right size though. They can be modified or removed though.

Steve.

cheers steve

I used pop rivets to get a Swift Boss onto the Vit:

can i fit a rear diff in the front axel if i upgrade my axels to 26 spline on my wt sierra?

Mitchie wrote:can i fit a rear diff in the front axel if i upgrade my axels to 26 spline on my wt sierra?

Yes. The front and rear diffs on WT are interchangable provided you make sure you have the spline count matching (swap side gears, fit HD axles etc).

Layto....

has anyone ran larger tyres on the back compared to the front. example somthing like this rears ,tray back ute 85 nt ,35 x 11 8x15 minus offset lower diff gearing,standard height springs. front 30 31s 5.5 x9.5 0 offset ,2 inch spring lift slightly lower gearing ....lower gearing transfer.. narrow track rear diff ..wide track front diff . two spares .. any pics

You'd want the diff gearing to work out even or you'll bind up your driveline and shit will go bang.

But.. whyyyyyyy?