Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just retain them.

Nelso wrote:Just retain them.

Yeah i was thinking of getting a little longer shocks and then retainng my springs is but i think i will be ok with what ever u get in the end...


Rick.

Fitted the lift

Love the look now with the new tyres.







I like it it's not a massive thing but i reakon it will go okay with that sort of lift and tyres..

Cheers

Rick.

Look'n good Rick .

Haven't seen the shorty around Noosa lately .

We'll have to head over to Nth shore for a run up the beach soon when you get it all sorted

GU BUG wrote:Look'n good Rick .

Haven't seen the shorty around Noosa lately .

We'll have to head over to Nth shore for a run up the beach soon when you get it all sorted

Sure will mate


Saw ur rig today Looks farking awersome!

I don't use my car for work at all so unless i go out once at home car doesn't get driven and i had been working late this week.


Need to sort castors and wheel balance out bad worse feeling when doing 80 or so and trying to wander everywere lol..

And the balance i hope that's what it is needs to be done as it shakes the car at 40 but u can drive out of the vibe though..

There balancer was playing up so he told me come back next week when they sorted it..

Rick.

Mate as soon as you put on larger tyres & any sort of lift from standard, you're going to notice a big difference in road handling .

You'd be used to the way the car handles now & any tyre or suspension adjustments will feel like you're driving a bus. Don't expect your 4by to drive as it did before .

You'll definately be able to get it riding better with your new shocks, springs, etc though if they're adjustable then I'd suggest having bit of a fiddle around with them until you come up with a ride you're comfortable with.

Good luck with it

GU BUG wrote:Mate as soon as you put on larger tyres & any sort of lift from standard, you're going to notice a big difference in road handling .

You'd be used to the way the car handles now & any tyre or suspension adjustments will feel like you're driving a bus. Don't expect your 4by to drive as it did before .

You'll definately be able to get it riding better with your new shocks, springs, etc though if they're adjustable then I'd suggest having bit of a fiddle around with them until you come up with a ride you're comfortable with.

Good luck with it

Cheers mate yeah i know what ya mean..

I think once the castor bushes have been fitted and a steering stabliser will make a bit of a difference.

I think i need to buy a drag link as well becuase of the steering wheel issue.

Cheers

Rick.

Well the lift has been in for a couple of weeks now and seems to have a few issues that i need to sort out..


When i first fitted the lift there was 40mm difference from the front and back so i waitted untill last Thursday to see if the front would have sagged it didn't so the 4wd shop gave me some 30mm spring spacers and i futted them today.

I had a vibe at low speed 0 - 50km before hand but i could live with it now i have put the spacers in the back car vibrates badly and tailshaft grinds badly now as well it did have a slight grind but i could have lived with that to..


What do i do know?

I got a wheel alignment yesterday and this is what i got..

BEFORE AFTER
Left/Right Left/Right
TOE IN/OUT : - .4 + .8 +.1 +.1
Camber : +.05 + .43 OK
Caster : +2.41 +2.57 OK


So that's what came up with that wheel alignment..


So i have to fix that bad a$$ vibration when taking off and then goes by 50 -60 kms.
Fix my tailshaft grind whenever i back off grinds like hell..


I have fitted a 10mm gearbox spacer but i was thinking if i got longer bolts how big of packers can i put in there or what else can i do except a $1000 double cardin joint?

The rear is 100cm and front is 100cm now one side on the back is 99 or maybe even 98cm for some reason i'm not sure why one it's higher one side anyway i'm going to be fitting another 60L gas tank to the rear so that will make it sit down a little bit more..

Also my tyres have lost chunks of rubber from the inside of my wheel arch front that Farking seatbelt bolt so i'm going to cut that bolt back and grind it smooth but i hope that will be enough becuase i just spent $1220 on tyres and they have little bits missing from the inside of the tyre and for some reason that the tyres edge on the back of the knobs are rounding off not the front edge


Thanks guys i'll post up my tailshaft angle and a pic of my tyres how they are wearing so many things when doing a lift not as smiple as i thought..

Cheers

Rick.

Jee that angle of the tailshaft is much worse after those spring spacers

What could i do i'm thinking of taking them out to be honest ...


Rasing the back would this effect my steering as it felt werid driving home after it or is that becuase the back is level now ?

Thanks alot guys for ya help!!!!

Rick.

Change your lower control arms to longer ones so both uni joints are running at the same angle. You can either buy adjustable ones, fit them and then adjust them. Or you can put your chassis on stands at its new ride height, take both lower control arms off, rotate your diff until the uni's are the right angles and measure the distance your new control arms need to be and get some made up by Hobsy or Bubs etc and fit them up.

Nelso wrote:Change your lower control arms to longer ones so both uni joints are running at the same angle. You can either buy adjustable ones, fit them and then adjust them. Or you can put your chassis on stands at its new ride height, take both lower control arms off, rotate your diff until the uni's are the right angles and measure the distance your new control arms need to be and get some made up by Hobsy or Bubs etc and fit them up.

OH

So by changing these lower arms what is it going to fix?

Thanks mate i have no idea what longer upper and lower arms do...


Cheers

Rick.

Had the same problems with a 4" lift . Tryed a lot of things so I did,nt have to buy a cardin jointed shaft, end result had to buy a cardin shaft . A bit expensive, but it solved all my problems.

LIF71T wrote:Had the same problems with a 4" lift . Tryed a lot of things so I did,nt have to buy a cardin jointed shaft, end result had to buy a cardin shaft . A bit expensive, but it solved all my problems.

AWWW FARK!



I hope someone else comes up with something to help me out so i don't have to spend $1k..

Thanks alot

Rick.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
But there ,s alot of people on this forum someone may have a cheaper option.
Good Luck

I'm running a 4" on my shorty with 8mm gearbox packers, and longer lower trailing arms (18mm).
No vibes at all

KIWI wrote:I'm running a 4" on my shorty with 8mm gearbox packers, and longer lower trailing arms (18mm).
No vibes at all

Yeah i'm going to get some longer arms i'm just not sure what length i need as adjustable ones i'm looking at the $395ea from Snake Racing..

Or i can get heavyduty ones 10 or 20mm longer for i think $175 for a pair..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Patrol-GU ... dZViewItem

I'm thinking of the 20+ over factory would be the best option i just wounder what it will fix..

Cheers

Rick.

Not sure which would be best, as I guess if you go too long you will lose guard clearance by shifting the axle back too far?

I ran dobinson 3" coils, and only needed the gearbox spacers, so most trucks are different.

Would you happen to know your shock lengths, or what the model numbers are?

I guesss there 3" shocks ..

this number was on the barcode if it helps..

926546

Cheers

Rick.

Mulisha wrote:

KIWI wrote:I'm running a 4" on my shorty with 8mm gearbox packers, and longer lower trailing arms (18mm).
No vibes at all

Yeah i'm going to get some longer arms i'm just not sure what length i need as adjustable ones i'm looking at the $395ea from Snake Racing..

Or i can get heavyduty ones 10 or 20mm longer for i think $175 for a pair..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Patrol-GU ... dZViewItem

I'm thinking of the 20+ over factory would be the best option i just wounder what it will fix..

Cheers

Rick.

Get in touch with bubs... he should be able to knock some up for cheaper than that, and probably stronger aswell..

+dj_hansen+ wrote:

Mulisha wrote:

KIWI wrote:I'm running a 4" on my shorty with 8mm gearbox packers, and longer lower trailing arms (18mm).
No vibes at all

Yeah i'm going to get some longer arms i'm just not sure what length i need as adjustable ones i'm looking at the $395ea from Snake Racing..

Or i can get heavyduty ones 10 or 20mm longer for i think $175 for a pair..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Patrol-GU ... dZViewItem

I'm thinking of the 20+ over factory would be the best option i just wounder what it will fix..

Cheers

Rick.

Get in touch with bubs... he should be able to knock some up for cheaper than that, and probably stronger aswell..

How do i get in touch with this fella

Also how do i work what length do i need as i have factory flares and mudflaps still on trying to stay a touch legal so how what the best way to work out the right length?

Cheers

Rick.

18 to 20mm will be about right. By lengthening your lower arms you rotate your diff so both universal joints on your driveshaft run at the same angle. If they are at different angles, like yours now, the driveshaft will not be balanced and will vibrate. If you want to get hold of Bubs just give him a PM as he is on outers.

Nelso wrote:Change your lower control arms to longer ones so both uni joints are running at the same angle. You can either buy adjustable ones, fit them and then adjust them. Or you can put your chassis on stands at its new ride height, take both lower control arms off, rotate your diff until the uni's are the right angles and measure the distance your new control arms need to be and get some made up by Hobsy or Bubs etc and fit them up.

If makeing your own and doing it as above. Also remove the coil. As as soon as you remove both control arms the chassi will rotate and take out the shocks. Tends to bend the shafts.

As for the fix I would just go control arms approx 15-18mm longer. This will cure the problem.
Another thing the factory arms bend easy so making them stronger would be good. Only need to upgrade the lowers. Never heard of anyone having problems with the uppers.

Yeah, I didn't clarify that but that's what I meant by putting the chassis on stands at its ride height. I assumed everyone would know not to keep the springs in when disconnecting more than one control arm. I forget how many clueless noobs get on here.

Hmm thanks guys


Well i rang my 4wd shop near me and he was saying i need longer upper arms to roll the diff back or something to get the uni joints at the right angel.. I said to him what u all said about longer lowers and he said nah that would make the vibes even worse..

Hmm

Also i'll pm bubs and see how i go about price wise for the lower arms ..

Thanks alot..

Rick.

Mulisha wrote:Hmm thanks guys


Well i rang my 4wd shop near me and he was saying i need longer upper arms to roll the diff back or something to get the uni joints at the right angel.. I said to him what u all said about longer lowers and he said nah that would make the vibes even worse..

Hmm

Also i'll pm bubs and see how i go about price wise for the lower arms ..

Thanks alot..

Rick.

Who told you that?!
Have they ever done work on Safari's? (or most lifted swb's)
You need to get the UJ's at the same angle, or as close as you can don't you? If you lengthen the uppers, the lower UJ angle decreases which would worsen the vibes would it not

KIWI wrote:

Mulisha wrote:Hmm thanks guys


Well i rang my 4wd shop near me and he was saying i need longer upper arms to roll the diff back or something to get the uni joints at the right angel.. I said to him what u all said about longer lowers and he said nah that would make the vibes even worse..

Hmm

Also i'll pm bubs and see how i go about price wise for the lower arms ..

Thanks alot..

Rick.

Who told you that?!
Have they ever done work on Safari's? (or most lifted swb's)
You need to get the UJ's at the same angle, or as close as you can don't you? If you lengthen the uppers, the lower UJ angle decreases which would worsen the vibes would it not

Yeah mate i think ur right i went out after i posted above and if i do make the uppers longer will twist the diff back.. I'm thinking of taking them off and getting a engineering place to weld a nice thick bit of pipe there and like 20mm longer...


If i did lengthen my own can i use the end parts and just cut the pipe off and get a engineer or something to re weld a longer pipe on both ends

Is that simple? Becuase the pipe will cost like $40 as i would get like 4.0mm thick stuff not sure on size of pipe though? Same size as orginal or bigger?

Thanks alot for ya help..


Also with removing my arms etc is it a hard job or is simple?

I was thinking of putting to rachet straps to replace my arms so the diff doesn't take off while the new ones get made.. will this work and leave my coils and shocks connected while the straps are on there?

Cheers

Rick.

I got an engineer to make mine with the original ends/bushes.
If you strap the diff, you'd have to do each side , and strap it both foward and back to stop movement I guess

I just found someone with a spare set of arms, got them modded, and just gave them my old originals when I replaced them.

you can run a 3mm wall thickness as top arms do bugger all. just undo the bolts, put a trolley jack under the pinion flange n jack it up until the bolts come loose, pull out the bolts ntake the arms to get modded. Make sure they remove the bushes before the cut or weld to the ring or the bushes will burn or bake rock hard n split. you can use 25mm NB black pipe for the arms it is about 33mm outside diametre get either medium or heavy wall thickness

when going longer lower arms you move the diff back, meaning it will be even closer to your guards and mud flaps, be careful if you dont want damage. how close is it now to rubbing/hitting them?
the only way around this is to shorten the uppers as well as lenghten the lowers. which will be a pita, and still wont make the angle of the shaft any better.

KIWI wrote:I got an engineer to make mine with the original ends/bushes.
If you strap the diff, you'd have to do each side , and strap it both foward and back to stop movement I guess

I just found someone with a spare set of arms, got them modded, and just gave them my old originals when I replaced them.

Oh ok i'm thinking of doing these arms like tommorow as i can barely drive the car with it the way it is..

nastytroll wrote:you can run a 3mm wall thickness as top arms do bugger all. just undo the bolts, put a trolley jack under the pinion flange n jack it up until the bolts come loose, pull out the bolts ntake the arms to get modded. Make sure they remove the bushes before the cut or weld to the ring or the bushes will burn or bake rock hard n split. you can use 25mm NB black pipe for the arms it is about 33mm outside diametre get either medium or heavy wall thickness

Well i didn't unsterstand what u said at the start as i don't think i will modify my uppers at this stage just my lowers to try and correct this vibration i have..

I can get 33mm x 4.0mm but is that going to be strong enough becuase arn't those HD ones 6.3mm thick or something?

Cheers

Rick.