Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Im running a ford/bosch solenoid type bypass control. It goes inline between the port infront of the throttle body and the supply line to the stepper motor.

The stepper motor is removed and plugged. Once the duty cycle is set the system works fine. My car drops aprox 50rpm when i put it in drive and maintians idle speed when i put the a/c one.

You have to make sure the wolf is in "ISET" mode when you set up the solenoid and duty cycle for it other wise the "T POS LOCK" will fight you.

if you need any help with it Mick send me a PM and i'l talk you throught it

cheers

Luke

Day 27

Just finished off the front mounts replaces all the MS bolts with HT ones (bar 2)





Mick

Day 29

Spent 1/2 a day driving around looking for a new fuel filler... had no idea what i wanted till i saw this one!!!



Got a fancy lockable chrome cap for it at SCA





So far i am happy with the way it looks. That 3mm base CP is so damn $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

anyone got a tig welder? I need some stuff welded up. pls pm me i am in east malvern.

Mick

Looking the goods, didn't want to bob tail it while you were at it? I know your keen on the spare wheel factor but thats what punture repair kits are for.
The only thing i found bad with my rangie was departure angles.

MONGREL wrote:Looking the goods, didn't want to bob tail it while you were at it? I know your keen on the spare wheel factor but thats what punture repair kits are for.
The only thing i found bad with my rangie was departure angles.

no puncture repair is going to fix a rolled tyre

hey man stupid Question but are u runnin 2 fuel tanks. i though the main filler on the body was the one u were using

rusty_042 wrote:hey man stupid Question but are u runnin 2 fuel tanks. i though the main filler on the body was the one u were using

nah the OE fuel filler was going to be too hard to get fuel to the tank and i would have had to cut the inside cab up too much. I'll just glass up the hole i made in the panel and bog it..... the way i have done it now is much more simple and simple = no problems and when i go to diesel it will handle a high flow pump a lot better this way as it's almost a straight theu pipe into the tank.

Mick

Now that you have plated the curve at the rear quarter, I am wondering, where will you fit the tail lights?

AFAIK the regs require that the blinkers have to be within 150 mm of the outside edge. And all of the rear lights have to be visible when looking from 45 deg angle on either side (which is why most 4x4's with spare wheel on rear door have the lights in the bumper bar).

Bush65 wrote:Now that you have plated the curve at the rear quarter, I am wondering, where will you fit the tail lights?

AFAIK the regs require that the blinkers have to be within 150 mm of the outside edge. And all of the rear lights have to be visible when looking from 45 deg angle on either side (which is why most 4x4's with spare wheel on rear door have the lights in the bumper bar).

the rear lights will be between the tyre cage and the CP that u see. I have been told they have to be within 400mm of the out most edge by my engineer.

in the pic the rear lights will be where you can see the door in the background



Mick

Looks good mick, I see what you meant buy the tray mounting probs.



Damo (mcrover)

disco-damo wrote:Looks good mick, I see what you meant buy the tray mounting probs.



Damo (mcrover)

yep

engineer wanted the middle floating which made things hard i hope he is happy with it!

I was liking this all up until the chequer plate. Why not just use flat sheet metal. Chequerplate is such a bugger to keep clean and just looks wrong I reckon. I wished I hadn't used it on my Zuk in hindsight

check out ya local boatshop for lights

grimbo wrote:I was liking this all up until the chequer plate. Why not just use flat sheet metal. Chequerplate is such a bugger to keep clean and just looks wrong I reckon. I wished I hadn't used it on my Zuk in hindsight

CP and Land Rovers go hand in hand but to tell you the truth i am not 100% on it either. I thin it will look much better painted. Only reason i CP the back section was because i was going to CP the bottom part of the doors to hide some of my handy work. then it will flow a lot better.

Mick

hey mate any news ? got much done latly??

rusty_042 wrote:hey mate any news ? got much done latly??

Nah had a Truck License last week so i was buggered by the time i got home and i just finished all my domestic duties so now i can spend some time on it! I scored a bargain on some latches for the spare wheel door. will post pics later. I am booked in with the engineer late next week so i have to get her running today and put the drivers seat back in.

Mick

Day 30

got these at a bargain down at the ally tool box place



they will be used to hold the the spare tyre door shut.



this is for the number plate and lights. I want it recessed so the lights don't get knock of when i back in to stuff i was thinking of using the OE lights from the tailgate. I also rewired the fuel tank back up and got her running for the 1st time in a while!! off to the engineer at the end of the week!! So it's just putting it all back together now!

Mick

Day 31

I lost count how many times the ally wire bird nested and i'll be happy when the ally side is done!!







Mick

looks real good dude mate will be awsome once done

Saw the engineer this morning everything was ok the only thing he suggested i change was the fuel filler pipe that wraps around the bottom support of one of the RHS wing, he fished out an old filler tube he had lying around and gave me that to try (from an old Mazda)

So let the painting begin!!!



Mick

that try looks perfect, still unsure as to wether I like the actual shape of the cab for some reason... dont take that the wrong way could just be the angle of the photo etc.

your gunna paint it grey again arent you?

good to someones project is trucking along, unlike my skank

shakes wrote:that try looks perfect, still unsure as to wether I like the actual shape of the cab for some reason... dont take that the wrong way could just be the angle of the photo etc.

your gunna paint it grey again arent you?

good to someones project is trucking along, unlike my skank

cheers mate. you and me both i dont like the shape of the cab either!! It's not the pic! I think it needs a roll bar or something???

Day I dont know anymore.....

Well i have given up with the ally welding as it was taking far to much of my time and the welds were very b grade!

anyway i went out to the shed one morning and decided i didn't like the CP wings so off they went and some 2mm flat plate has been welded on. the 2mm plate is about the same weight as the 3mm base CP so it's not going to add that much more weight and case it can all be welded in place it will add to the over all strength of the tray.



purchased my new LED combo lights and made up the resistor packs and they all work. I have all so fitted a 'idle control solenoid'' from an XF Falcon and wired it up to the Wolf so now my Rangie starts without my foot on the gas for the 1st time on 3 or 4 years!!


Megaa thanks to Lucas for helping with the idle soliniod!!

very nice mate i thought u were gonna fit the larger hella leds for the tail lights ???

rusty_042 wrote:very nice mate i thought u were gonna fit the larger hella leds for the tail lights ???

not at 185 each!!!! these ones only cost 50 each so i wont cry when i back into a tree or a bank and break one

thats fair i got mine for 180 including postage for the 2 it was second hand but lever used / fitted

rusty_042 wrote:thats fair i got mine for 180 including postage for the 2 it was second hand but lever used / fitted

Bursons wanted 250 RRP!!!! But at the truck place they had them for 185! maybe one day but i have bigger fish to fry atm

This kit looks similar,http://twooffrd.iwarp.com/photo3.html

It is the same kit. Les Richmond sell it to that company who are on-sellers in NZ.

Lez Richmond are now selling the Tray kit and the style side kits again.....

See what we did walker