Outer Limits 4x4 Board

christover1 wrote: more like a face after too much seafood and red wine type green

That's red and happy as far as I am concerned

Gwagensteve wrote:

christover1 wrote: more like a face after too much seafood and red wine type green

That's red and happy as far as I am concerned

perhaps I should of said "cheap red wine and dodgy seafood:

mugginsmoo wrote:use a spare rim (with no tire on it) and frog to break the bead then leaver off the tire.

Mitch

Problem solved.
Took it to Goodyear tyres in Croydon.
They popped the bead for $0.
Can't complain about the price and the service was quick and friendly.
They may get my next tyre purchase.
Certainly get my recommendation.

sierrajim wrote:I've got an A-frame here if you want it Chris, has the plate welded to it for the hitch and two safety chains.
Looks to be 50x50 box in fairly good nic.

PM sent
I would love to grab the A frame if its still on offer.
Thanks
christover

Next piece of the puzzle arrives.
No chance of bending this.
Thanks SierraJim

just needs cutting down a tad to suit my width/length etc.

christover

I would appreciate peoples opinions on using Marine Ply for the floor and sides of the trailer. Probably thicker floor than walls.
The chassis would be of heavy guage 50mm angle.
Main frame of box would be of 30mm lighter guage.
As pictured, I have used marine ply in the uting of my zook, and its been there many years.
Mainly because I have more access to wood working tools than metal.
Wood it end up heavier or lighter or similar, and wood it last?
Thanx all,
christover

chris,

for you kind of budget, i say go for the ply. it comes in a lot of sizes from 3mm to 27mm. if you can't find any thick enough for you application, just laminate two sheets to give you what you want. bunning and mitre10 have a large selection of ply (got the 12mm floor in the jim, for $10 )

my only suggestion is to put enugh "bracing" under the ply so that it doesn't "bow" when you are lying on it.

give it a good paint and your on your way.

mitch

Chris,

Some years back I had a zodiac inflatable for work and the floor took a hammering from tools, chains, dive gear etc. and had continued exposure to the elements. I made a new floor for it from standard ply but took the time to seal the edges properly (I'll try and remember the stuff I used and let you know) and then sealed the whole lot with marine polyurethane. It was cheaper than using marine ply and I never had a need to wish I had used marine ply.

mugginsmoo wrote:chris,
for you kind of budget, i say go for the ply. it comes in a lot of sizes from 3mm to 27mm. if you can't find any thick enough for you application, just laminate two sheets to give you what you want. bunning and mitre10 have a large selection of ply (got the 12mm floor in the jim, for $10 )
my only suggestion is to put enugh "bracing" under the ply so that it doesn't "bow" when you are lying on it.
give it a good paint and your on your way.
mitch

I may be able to get an old woody cheap, that would give me a chassis and spring mounts. New wood could be good.
Me ute roof didn't cost much.

thanks for input
christover

I don't know about the ply as it's going to be exposed to the weather.

what's a sheet of 16gauge steel 1.2m x 2.4m worth?

I know a sheet of 16gauge alloy cheque only cost me just over $100 last year and this would be a whole lot better than ply in the long run.....

Better to take a bit longer to build it once instead of pulling it apart and more importantly wasting money.......

I will see if I can get you a price for the alloy checker plate....

James

cj wrote:Chris,

Some years back I had a zodiac inflatable for work and the floor took a hammering from tools, chains, dive gear etc. and had continued exposure to the elements. I made a new floor for it from standard ply but took the time to seal the edges properly (I'll try and remember the stuff I used and let you know) and then sealed the whole lot with marine polyurethane. It was cheaper than using marine ply and I never had a need to wish I had used marine ply.

Dad has a brilliant collection of wood tools, so this is a very tempting option.
I am happy with the frog roof for roughly 8 years ish.

jtraf wrote:I don't know about the ply as it's going to be exposed to the weather.

what's a sheet of 16gauge steel 1.2m x 2.4m worth?

I know a sheet of 16gauge alloy cheque only cost me just over $100 last year and this would be a whole lot better than ply in the long run.....

Better to take a bit longer to build it once instead of pulling it apart and more importantly wasting money.......

I will see if I can get you a price for the alloy checker plate....

James

building always seems to cost me more than buying.
I do prefer to build once and never need to rebuild.
But tho thats always planned, it is rare.
thanks for help
Alloy is an option, tho dissimilar metals can cause rust issues unless sealed off from each other.

Thinking about it the biggest issue will be stones flung up underneath. This is where steel or alloy has a possible advantage but you could use some sort of body deadener or even herculiner may be an option.

As for sealing the edges I think it was a two part deal using a urea formaldehyde and acetic acid mix but really just using a two part epoxy would be fine.

cj wrote:Thinking about it the biggest issue will be stones flung up underneath. This is where steel or alloy has a possible advantage but you could use some sort of body deadener or even herculiner may be an option.

As for sealing the edges I think it was a two part deal using a urea formaldehyde and acetic acid mix but really just using a two part epoxy would be fine.

whatever I do, it will be getting a under body and under guards coating of deadener or similar.

I do so hate painting and prep

I came across some material that may be of interest. Its a coreflute board filled with high density urethane foam laminated either side.

Essentially its 5-6mm thick with the strength of 7 ply, a fraction of the weight and has the insulation properties of refer panel. Will be using it in mine, it also wasn't that expensive.

sierrajim wrote:I came across some material that may be of interest. Its a coreflute board filled with high density urethane foam laminated either side.

Essentially its 5-6mm thick with the strength of 7 ply, a fraction of the weight and has the insulation properties of refer panel. Will be using it in mine, it also wasn't that expensive.

will look into that, very interesting, sounds great

Have cut down the draw bar to suit a width of 3ft 6" or 1070mm.
This width and the length of 4ft 6" 0r 1370mm was decided upon by availability of mudguard sizes, departure angle, draw bar length, axle position for balance, and bed size of 4'6" wide is comfy.
Also the ability to widen it if I ever change cars.
Also sorted is the spoa conversion, bit simple really, but sounds tuff
Not a great deal of work done, but much plannings
christover

i love how you set it up inside your living room haha but looking good with the spoa. nice.
my missus chucked a wobbly for all the car parts on the balcony.. ill show her your pic to shut her up

smileysmoke wrote:i love how you set it up inside your living room haha but looking good with the spoa. nice.
my missus chucked a wobbly for all the car parts on the balcony.. ill show her your pic to shut her up

It was cold and dark out in the garage

Guess I'd better go outside for drilling, grinding and stuff

haha yeh good idea. i was making my interior panels inside.. the place smelt like glue.. was great she loved it
she cracked up when she saw the pic.. and she apologised for having a wobbly.. so thats a win.. i owe you a beer

smileysmoke wrote:haha yeh good idea. i was making my interior panels inside.. the place smelt like glue.. was great she loved it
she cracked up when she saw the pic.. and she apologised for having a wobbly.. so thats a win.. i owe you a beer

If I knock down a wall, or remove front doors and windows, then I could get the zook into the lounge

christover1 wrote:

smileysmoke wrote:haha yeh good idea. i was making my interior panels inside.. the place smelt like glue.. was great she loved it
she cracked up when she saw the pic.. and she apologised for having a wobbly.. so thats a win.. i owe you a beer

If I knock down a wall, or remove front doors and windows, then I could get the zook into the lounge

and u havent done it yet? install a remote roller door as ur front door. he he

nice going with the trailer looks good so far. i am still thinking of using a sierra chassis for mine.

nicbeer wrote: i am still thinking of using a sierra chassis for mine.

yeah that thought kept coming back for a while.

My Moke body trailer followed the Moke brilliantly, but it was heavier than a normal trailer for same carrying capacity.

Weight was one reason I decided against using a zook chassis trailer, and also I want the camper to be easy to make suit the next car, if it ever happens.

christover

One person could comfortably lift 1/2 a Sierra chassis, they are only 2.5mm thick. Most trailers are at least 3mm thick. I agree though, by the time you add 1/2 the body etc too, it might be a heavy for the load size.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:One person could comfortably lift 1/2 a Sierra chassis, they are only 2.5mm thick. Most trailers are at least 3mm thick. I agree though, by the time you add 1/2 the body etc too, it might be a heavy for the load size.

Steve.

Half car trailers sure look very cool, kewl and kool, but

chris, if you want 1/2 a sierra chassis you can have the one in my garage.

Mitch

mugginsmoo wrote:chris, if you want 1/2 a sierra chassis you can have the one in my garage.

Mitch

Thanx for the offer, but its not the way I'm planning to go.
Have almost got chassis bits prepared.

The chassis/box base is cut and positioned.
Will pin it together with small bolts, just to hold it straight for welding.
I have borrowed deisel dudes idea, positioning spring hanger so it can be welded to draw bar as well as chassis. Sounds logical to me.
Axle has finished up round 40% of box length, which was what I wished.
I happy with the overhang/departure angle.
Luck would have it, my tow bar is almost at perfect height
christover

I had to take it back out to the garage, and it was cold, dark and less fun than working inside
It's all trimmed, pinned, straightened, squared and ready for a weld...I think.
May attack mudgauards next, so I can work out an optimum side height.
Will werk that out as we go. After a rest
PS it passed the parking test, as thats about where I need to park it to fit car in as well. No where else to put it. Part of the reasoning behind size, length width etc.
christover

good work mate, getting there! few more bits and shes all done