Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Zac why don't you just use $50 ebay cvs, after all you won't come out and play every time the mrs says you have to have lunch at the in-laws and you can't break them then hey? Save-a-da-money...


HAHAHAHAHAHA!

has anyone got any info on the 50 buc cv's. are they as strong as ntn's
ive considered getting a set n welding rings on them. till i have a need for something stronger.


another question, how will gq front centres hold up with stronger axels and cv's? i know they are strong but your doubleing the breaking strength of everything else will the diffs give? as surely its easier/ cheaper to replace a cv over a centre

badger wrote:has anyone got any info on the 50 buc cv's. are they as strong as ntn's
ive considered getting a set n welding rings on them. till i have a need for something stronger.


another question, how will gq front centres hold up with stronger axels and cv's? i know they are strong but your doubleing the breaking strength of everything else will the diffs give? as surely its easier/ cheaper to replace a cv over a centre

as mentioned earlier the hubs will be next to give

Bartso wrote:

badger wrote:has anyone got any info on the 50 buc cv's. are they as strong as ntn's
ive considered getting a set n welding rings on them. till i have a need for something stronger.


another question, how will gq front centres hold up with stronger axels and cv's? i know they are strong but your doubleing the breaking strength of everything else will the diffs give? as surely its easier/ cheaper to replace a cv over a centre

as mentioned earlier the hubs will be next to give

I agree - and I'd rather pack half a dozen hubs and change them out in the field than CVs or axles.

this may be a dub question but....

If guys like Cal, Yuri and haultech can heat treat CV's why couldn't they do the same to axles, hubs, gears or other parts? And isn't there different methods of treating steel to increase strength?

1MadEngineer you are pretty close, We are just waiting on the final testing charts for strengths but the CalOffroad GQ Cvs are about 9000lb
all testing has been done in worst case cenario, CVs at full lock etc

RMP&O wrote:this may be a dub question but....

If guys like Cal, Yuri and haultech can heat treat CV's why couldn't they do the same to axles, hubs, gears or other parts? And isn't there different methods of treating steel to increase strength?

Ian, I'm most likely wrong but the axles are made of a high tensile steel and treatin them cause too many other problems and makes then a little stronger but too brittale.
Cal?
Greg?
Damo?

crliin wrote:1MadEngineer you are pretty close, We are just waiting on the final testing charts for strengths but the CalOffroad GQ Cvs are about 9000lb
all testing has been done in worst case cenario, CVs at full lock etc

Can you post them up here. I am very interested in the outcome. Are they shock loaded for the test or is it a gradual load. i think shock loading would give more of an accurate outcome to the winch challenge style trucks

cheers

zac

WICKED wrote:

RMP&O wrote:this may be a dub question but....

If guys like Cal, Yuri and haultech can heat treat CV's why couldn't they do the same to axles, hubs, gears or other parts? And isn't there different methods of treating steel to increase strength?

Ian, I'm most likely wrong but the axles are made of a high tensile steel and treatin them cause too many other problems and makes then a little stronger but too brittale.
Cal?
Greg?
Damo?

ah ya...makes sense and I think you are right. I knew there must be some reason or people would be doing it. It just didn't come to me...hence the dumb question.

badger wrote:has anyone got any info on the 50 buc cv's. are they as strong as ntn's
ive considered getting a set n welding rings on them. till i have a need for something stronger.


another question, how will gq front centres hold up with stronger axels and cv's? i know they are strong but your doubleing the breaking strength of everything else will the diffs give? as surely its easier/ cheaper to replace a cv over a centre

Buy a $50 CV and you'll bust it every time! Use a NTN or at least a treated one!

If you start to heat treat and up grade your hub gears then youll end up like the guys in the states running lux gear.First they put in longs broke hubs next they got drive flanges started to brake trans case input shafts.Then they got 4340 input shafts all of this stuff i was told was made by bobby long and chriod as well now they brake trans case housings.Something has to give in the end.As some one stated before better to sacrifice a hub nice easy fix and very short time to fix.

Duncan
Team Evolution

So any reports on these yet?

is there anyone on here running these yet? im trying to fit mine up, and the short side/driverside, seems like the axel is 5mm too long, as i cant bolt up the stub axel, and in comparison to stock, its 5mm longer,

ant reports? im going to call Cal Offroad tomorrow and see what they say, just want to know if anyone else has had this trouble

ozy1 wrote:is there anyone on here running these yet? im trying to fit mine up, and the short side/driverside, seems like the axel is 5mm too long, as i cant bolt up the stub axel, and in comparison to stock, its 5mm longer,

ant reports? im going to call Cal Offroad tomorrow and see what they say, just want to know if anyone else has had this trouble

Hey man,
A few people have had to trim a bit off the end of the inner axle in cars with older air lockers.
The axles were just made to the same length as a pair of the stock Nissan items, but the length of them seems to vary between sets. With the stock centre the axles can float further in than they could in the air lockers so it was never a problem for Nissan.
Cal talked to ARB about it and apparently the "newer" air lockers allow the axles to slide in that little bit further, as their fitters were having the same problems with stock axles. I know I have had to trim 3 or 4 stock axles to get them in before.

Just trim a bit off with your chop saw or 9", bevel it so you don't wreck your inner axle seal and slide it in.

Give them hell man, they are ridiculously strong. The test set they have been trying to break is still loving life.

Wendle wrote:
Just trim a bit off with your chop saw or 9", bevel it so you don't wreck your inner axle seal and slide it in.

You want people to pay over $2000 for these then to chop them with a 9" drop saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WICKED wrote: You want people to pay over $2000 for these then to chop them with a 9" drop saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm with you on this one.

If we let cal know what sort of locker we have can i be done before delivery ?

Nick

The inner axels have been made for the new ARB locker. They will work with most old lockers and only a few have needed to be shortened, this can ofcourse be done prior to shipment so you do not have to trim.


loads of these CVs are out and about and no one has broken any yet.
Talk to mick at superior he has done 4 or 5 comps in his now and he loves them
and we have them running in all types of vehicles and tyre/ engine sizes

crliin wrote:The inner axels have been made for the new ARB locker. They will work with most old lockers and only a few have needed to be shortened, this can ofcourse be done prior to shipment so you do not have to trim.
loads of these CVs are out and about and no one has broken any yet.
Talk to mick at superior he has done 4 or 5 comps in his now and he loves them
and we have them running in all types of vehicles and tyre/ engine sizes

I will be speaking to you early next year then.

Cheers Nick

thanks for the reply Wendle, actully spole to Cal this morning, when he returned my call, came home trimmed the 5mm off and beveled the edge, and worked a treat,

Have to admit, i left a message at about 530ish yesterday arvo, and he returned my call at 730, that is a service i very rarly get from any other shop,

i`m keen to get a pair of thease and put my order in..

but there is no fucking way in hell i am paying 2K then having to modify them...

if i am paying 2K i expect them to be correct to the mm.
i dont wanna be butchering them....

if u can supply them with out me having to butcher... consider an order placed..

otherwise forget it

he has already said above they can be trimmed prior to shipment....

plus it was stated its only some or the early lockers that had the issues

Mousie wrote:i`m keen to get a pair of thease and put my order in..

but there is no . way in hell i am paying 2K then having to modify them...

if i am paying 2K i expect them to be correct to the mm.
i dont wanna be butchering them....

if u can supply them with out me having to butcher... consider an order placed..

otherwise forget it

Sounds like you'll be ordering a set then hey, seeing as he's already offered to do the mod....

i think so.... heh.

Any more feed back on these chrome moly Call offroad CVs i am pretty keen on getting some in the new year I am interested in any performance feed back on a full body rig (NOT A BUGGY ) I know that some of you will say "whats the difference?" Well its about 600 kgs so i'm only intersted in feed back on fulll body rigs. Or should i just go proven Gu diffs

mick at superior has given his a fair bit of ROCK work with 38.5 boggers... not many tyres more natorious for CV breaking than boggers and his are fine. now hes running trepadore stickkies and still no problems... ive seen him bounce with the front locked in and no dramas. he loves them. they are the same price as a gu diff, but you get stronger cvs, stronger axles..... just do a GU break upgrade if you need them.

As Chunderlicious stated i have been using these now for over 6 months in a fare few comps as well as heaps of recreational trips. I have not had one problem with the GQ front end. Prior to these i fitted 2 new NTN's and broke them both within 1/2 of driving in a rock creek. Costing $500
For me i think that using GQ diffs instead of the wider GU's are a better option, after all better turning circle than a gu when a couple of mods done and the diff is narrower which sometimes is the difference of hitting a cone.
A lot of guys have been going on about the hubs being the next weakest link?? so what !! why worry about the next " weak link " just fix the problem you have now and that is piss week standard Cv's.
I have clocked up many hours on my set and haven't broken a hub,
but i have stuffed 2 REAR AXLES in this time which goes to show the driveline is getting abused.
For those who dont know my truck it is a full body GQ with complete interior and exterior so it does weigh over 2 tonne
Also i am using comp spec "sticky" trepadors so i am certainly getting good traction

what about 2nd gear low looseing and grabing traction with the locker on at revs. ?


Cheers

And what about front digs...?????

Come on guys, you want to know if they work in a full bodied vehicle.
Seems to me like they do......

Specific situations will only get more and more complicated.

Hasn't everyone been in lo 2 at revs losing and gaining traction?

That, to me at least, doesn't sound like the most brutal of situations for a cv anyway. It's the air time and coming down at throttle thats gonna break somethin.

well thanks fa ya feed back lads. So i hope ya got them in stock Superior Engineering cause ill see ya early Jan