Outer Limits 4x4 Board

That is sweet Rick, well done.

Nice what are the rim worth Rick Im in a world of hurt ATM springs are to stiff need new links need Radius arms shocks may need revalving its all over the place but I like those rims can you get them in powder coat black

ROVERNIT wrote:Nice what are the rim worth Rick

They don't do em in a Rover pattern

RRP is about $490ea though!

typical king rims here I come

That looks awesum mate!

I cant wait to see what you come up with next

Imagine what it would look like with the lra 2.5' body lift kit !
tyres will prob still rub wont they without it?

Anyway whats next?

ROVERNIT wrote:typical king rims here I come

Have you considered eastern wheel works,very good sevice,great price,and they turned out great.

0356780790 last time i checked

it willnever drive like stock.....
but im sure you can make it better than it is

BBM Rick wrote:

TRobbo wrote:Rick, colour code those flares - they will look HEAPS better

We were discussing it, do you have any pics or examples to show?

Trust me colour them mate get the colour the same,and keep some for touch ups,on the body and flares.
Doing the front and rear bars will make it look even better

blackrangie wrote:That looks awesum mate!

I cant wait to see what you come up with next

Imagine what it would look like with the lra 2.5' body lift kit !
tyres will prob still rub wont they without it?

Anyway whats next?

Thanks for the kind words!

The only place it touches is the very rear, of the rear wheel well, which I think I can live with. It also just nips the radius arm on full lock, but I can play with the lockstops to sort that.
Next up will be getting the lockers hooked up, sorting out some on board air, rear lower control arms to be made bullet proof and getting a tie rod made up to match the drag link. I want to have this as strong and reliable as possible. Lucky for me that Fernando from 3rd's Productions has lower rear arms on the shelf, and will make my tie rod for me.
Oh, I will also be trialing some drop radius arms early in the new year, so stay tuned for that.
Maybe a swap to HID's all round in the future, but it's not high on the priority list atm. Still got plenty of work to do to make it drive right first!
I also have asecond set of trim rings for the wheels that I was thinking of having painted in the body colour. Can anyone with photochop skills give me an idea what it may look like?

uninformed wrote:it willnever drive like stock.....
but im sure you can make it better than it is

umm..i think he's trying to say that he wants it to drive as close to stock as he can get it,something i am currently working on too

Just got the maxidrive sterring rods and 4way stabilizer and castor bushes and it helped out heeps,but still need to slot the swivels as its the most cost effective solution avail at the moment i think.

BBM Rick wrote:

blackrangie wrote:That looks awesum mate!

I cant wait to see what you come up with next

Imagine what it would look like with the lra 2.5' body lift kit !
tyres will prob still rub wont they without it?

Anyway whats next?

Thanks for the kind words!

The only place it touches is the very rear, of the rear wheel well, which I think I can live with. It also just nips the radius arm on full lock, but I can play with the lockstops to sort that.
Next up will be getting the lockers hooked up, sorting out some on board air, rear lower control arms to be made bullet proof and getting a tie rod made up to match the drag link. I want to have this as strong and reliable as possible. Lucky for me that Fernando from 3rd's Productions has lower rear arms on the shelf, and will make my tie rod for me.
Oh, I will also be trialing some drop radius arms early in the new year, so stay tuned for that.
Maybe a swap to HID's all round in the future, but it's not high on the priority list atm. Still got plenty of work to do to make it drive right first!
I also have asecond set of trim rings for the wheels that I was thinking of having painted in the body colour. Can anyone with photochop skills give me an idea what it may look like?

Are you addicted to rangies yet? or havent you been offroad much yet,haha

Nah just kidn,are those springs softish or hard,cause there is nothing worse that tall hard springs on a rangie,

hey mate do u have any pics of the conversion work done on the diffs???

blackrangie wrote: Nah just kidn,are those springs softish or hard,cause there is nothing worse that tall hard springs on a rangie,

I agree, lots of suspension mods on Rangies go tits up because most times they've selected a too stiffer spring rate for the vehicle. Obviously (common sense) that the more gear you have hanging off your Rangies, the harder the spring has to be to cope with the extra weight.

I run 180lb front (tube bar with a M8000 lb Warn wich and dual battery set-up) and 220 lb on the rear (rear bar, not too heavy and std fuel tank). Works fine allround, plus articulates well off-road without too many comprimises.

Works on my rig but not to everyone's liking.

Trav

Aquarangie wrote:

blackrangie wrote: Nah just kidn,are those springs softish or hard,cause there is nothing worse that tall hard springs on a rangie,

I agree, lots of suspension mods on Rangies go tits up because most times they've selected a too stiffer spring rate for the vehicle. Obviously (common sense) that the more gear you have hanging off your Rangies, the harder the spring has to be to cope with the extra weight.

I run 180lb front (tube bar with a M8000 lb Warn wich and dual battery set-up) and 220 lb on the rear (rear bar, not too heavy and std fuel tank). Works fine allround, plus articulates well off-road without too many comprimises.

Works on my rig but not to everyone's liking.

Trav

I have 220ibs on the front of my Disco and 280ibs on the rear now a rangie and a Disco are totally different but I find 220 on the front with ARB bar to be OK its the rear and 280 that Im not to sure off spoke to English Auto over at tuggerah he advised that it sounds way to stiff

hey rovernit,

procomp make steelies with the wholes in them, and black. rather then the conventional sunraysia patterns. they're pretty thick too and have continous weld on the band (not stitch welded like some), mine version are called 'rock crawlers' from memory. at the time i got mine then had 2 versions, one with more wholes and smaller and one with less wholes and larger ones. i got mine shipped up from melbourne.

def90 wrote:hey rovernit,

procomp make steelies with the wholes in them, and black. rather then the conventional sunraysia patterns. they're pretty thick too and have continous weld on the band (not stitch welded like some), mine version are called 'rock crawlers' from memory. at the time i got mine then had 2 versions, one with more wholes and smaller and one with less wholes and larger ones. i got mine shipped up from melbourne.

what did they set you back

about $120 each i think? bought them about 2 years ago

Thanks mate that the go

no big dents in it yet?

What dose it RTI at now with the bigger wheels ?????

If the front tyres arnt rubbing in the inner guards then the front coils must be to hard or you have lengthened the front bump stops either way your loosing up travel which will also effect the down travel on the oppisit side ...

Would look much beta with a 3in body lift and will flex beta with softer rate coils

But that is just my opinion and there the same as clits

lokka wrote:What dose it RTI at now with the bigger wheels ?????

If the front tyres arnt rubbing in the inner guards then the front coils must be to hard or you have lengthened the front bump stops either way your loosing up travel which will also effect the down travel on the oppisit side ...

Would look much beta with a 3in body lift and will flex beta with softer rate coils

But that is just my opinion and there the same as clits

Havent worked out an RTI yet, and your right, I probably have lost a bit due to the coils. Im in a fortunate position to have Simon, Tough Dog's own guru to give me a hand to get the best possible coil in the Rangie. What we have isnt right yet, but he assures me we will get there. Once we do, we will have them available to sell.
Looking forward to getting it right! I have the drop arms going in today, as well as the rear lower arms, and I have had double cardin shafts made up for the front and rear.
SLowly but surely, Im getting it to where I want it.

Oh, and Mark, no dents yet

What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?

?????????????????

Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?

Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.
So whats left to do?
Hook up the lockers.
Make up a HD Tie Rod
Fab up some sliders
Keep playing with coil rates.
Make up some rear dislocation cones
That should just about get her done I reckon.

Rick.

BBM Rick wrote:

Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?

Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.

I was really surprised also when fitting LC60 diffs to my series Landy. Where they seem to make all of the gains in width is in the wheel offset rather than the axle length.

EVERYONE should follow this link to vote for our mate Rick

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=135094

Slunnie wrote:

BBM Rick wrote:

Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?

Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.

I was really surprised also when fitting LC60 diffs to my series Landy. Where they seem to make all of the gains in width is in the wheel offset rather than the axle length.

that cant be good for wheel bearings

uninformed wrote:

Slunnie wrote:

BBM Rick wrote:

Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?

Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.

I was really surprised also when fitting LC60 diffs to my series Landy. Where they seem to make all of the gains in width is in the wheel offset rather than the axle length.

that cant be good for wheel bearings

Why?, same as offset rims

Yeah, I dunno. The Toy factory rims come offset out by 26mm, so I guess they are designed to run that offset.

UZJ40 wrote:EVERYONE should follow this link to vote for our mate Rick

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=135094

Payback is a B I A T C H Mark!