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Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 8:15 am
by RAY185
bad_religion_au wrote:
little rusty wrote:So how come no one uses the 60 Series steering column and intermediate shaft?

Never had a look at the 60s gear but would have thought it would be better to keep the whole system together. unless length/clearances is an issue...

nice work on the 40 dash above...

so tell us how the steerings going now shorty...

will be looking at mine soon - anyone got some tips about fitting this around a holden V8?
60 column is too long for the cab, and 60 intermediate shaft is too short
I dont think the column itself is that much longer than a 75. I used 73 series intermediate shaft and column shaft (up the guts of the 60 column). While it certainly doesnt look factory, having the tilt function is handy, as is having all the switching on the combo switch. Like pcman, its a pain in the arse to setup all the relays for switching, but thats what sparkys are for. :D

Brad, whats concerning you about the v8 block? As long as you have a clear path from the opening at the firewall down to the chassis rail next to your radiator the you shouldnt have a problem.

Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 10:11 am
by bad_religion_au
RAY185 wrote:
I dont think the column itself is that much longer than a 75. I used 73 series intermediate shaft and column shaft (up the guts of the 60 column). While it certainly doesnt look factory, having the tilt function is handy, as is having all the switching on the combo switch. Like pcman, its a pain in the arse to setup all the relays for switching, but thats what sparkys are for. :D

Brad, whats concerning you about the v8 block? As long as you have a clear path from the opening at the firewall down to the chassis rail next to your radiator the you shouldnt have a problem.
but it's not collapseable is it? where the 75 series one is, so it can be shortened to suit the firewall - driver space.

i've not tried a 60 column myself, just going off what i've seen when i was working at the wreckers, so i'm happy to be corrected if wrong.

Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 10:44 am
by RAY185
Yeah its not colapsable but I really dont find it too intrusive on the cab. I sit a fair way back though as I have long legs (all 3 of them). Short arses might have issues. :D

will put up a pic when I get time.

Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 11:13 am
by bj on roids
pcman wrote:the 75 colum can be shortened and nealy fits perfectly with only a slight mod on the mounting point

the whole colum is designed to crush in an accident so if you clamp the mount point in a vice then hit the bottom using a block of wood and a hammer you can compress(shorten) the entire colum

mine only has 30mm of it exposed from the dash and uses the standard 40 mount points

its still abit low but im used to it now and recon its sweet

ive also wired up the 75 indicator switch and ignition wipers are a headache and i couldnt make them work with the 40 wipers headlights are next but they will require relays as the 40 switch switches all the power whereas the 75 just switches relays


ill get pics tomorrow if anyone is interested
yep, i would love to see it!

Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 9:47 pm
by Tojo
lots of usefull info in this post.

Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 5:30 am
by little rusty
cheers ray

just wanted to check i didn't have to offset the motor to the passenger side or space the steering box out from the chassis to make it fit...

it all seems pretty straight forward after all this

Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 2:17 pm
by bj on roids
little rusty wrote:cheers ray

just wanted to check i didn't have to offset the motor to the passenger side or space the steering box out from the chassis to make it fit...

it all seems pretty straight forward after all this
depends on your exhaust, but unless you have a 90deg 'V' you should be sweet

Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 5:40 pm
by little rusty
I hope you mean that if I have a 90 V then I should be sweet??

I currently have block hugging headers that are quite tight on the block... i dont foresee any dramas but was thinking there must be SOMEONE out there is a shorty with holden V8 and 60 power steer!!!

Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 5:50 pm
by RAY185
You'll be sweet Brad, BJ was just being a smart arse :D

If your v8 banks are 90 degrees (boxer style - think subaru) then you might not have clearance for the intermediate shaft. You should have no problems. Post up a pic of your engine bay if you can (preferably a shot of where the intermediate shaft will run).

Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 2:15 pm
by bad_religion_au
RAY185 wrote:You'll be sweet Brad, BJ was just being a smart arse :D

If your v8 banks are 90 degrees (boxer style - think subaru) then you might not have clearance for the intermediate shaft. You should have no problems. Post up a pic of your engine bay if you can (preferably a shot of where the intermediate shaft will run).
isn't a boxer motor 180 degree (flat). a 90 dgree angle is a right angle corner.

i know Daz off this board had a chev 8 and 60 power steering.

Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:33 pm
by little rusty
thats all i needed to hear bad religion

this is the best photo i have... the current shaft has plenty of room so if the power steer conversion follows a similar path then I should be sweet.

Image

Posted: Mon May 26, 2008 9:16 am
by bj on roids
bad_religion_au wrote:
RAY185 wrote:You'll be sweet Brad, BJ was just being a smart arse :D

If your v8 banks are 90 degrees (boxer style - think subaru) then you might not have clearance for the intermediate shaft. You should have no problems. Post up a pic of your engine bay if you can (preferably a shot of where the intermediate shaft will run).
isn't a boxer motor 180 degree (flat). a 90 dgree angle is a right angle corner.

i know Daz off this board had a chev 8 and 60 power steering.
yeah, they all fit, if you have quite a wide engine, it can be an issue, look for pics on pirate, lots of engine/steering combos!

Posted: Mon May 26, 2008 9:17 am
by bj on roids
little rusty wrote:thats all i needed to hear bad religion

this is the best photo i have... the current shaft has plenty of room so if the power steer conversion follows a similar path then I should be sweet.

Image
you should have miles of clearance!

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 1:06 pm
by shorty_f0rty
bit of an update..

ive discovered a slow leak at the steering box.. it appears to be coming out where the splined shaft goes in.. its not too much to worry about but it is a bit of a bummer.. i'm trying to find out the history of the box (find out if it was sold as a good box).. as i got it off a mate.. not sure where he got it from..

also.. I think i need to replace the uni on the steering box end of the 75 series intermediate shaft.

anyone know if this is easy to do (ie, by me at home?).. there is a bit of play and i'd rather fix it sooner than later..

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 3:20 pm
by bad_religion_au
shorty_f0rty wrote:bit of an update..

ive discovered a slow leak at the steering box.. it appears to be coming out where the splined shaft goes in.. its not too much to worry about but it is a bit of a bummer.. i'm trying to find out the history of the box (find out if it was sold as a good box).. as i got it off a mate.. not sure where he got it from..

also.. I think i need to replace the uni on the steering box end of the 75 series intermediate shaft.

anyone know if this is easy to do (ie, by me at home?).. there is a bit of play and i'd rather fix it sooner than later..
I tried this myself, but when i went to order the part was told the whole joint was non-serviceable, and to buy the whole joint new, not just the uni

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 4:29 pm
by shorty_f0rty
bad_religion_au wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:bit of an update..

ive discovered a slow leak at the steering box.. it appears to be coming out where the splined shaft goes in.. its not too much to worry about but it is a bit of a bummer.. i'm trying to find out the history of the box (find out if it was sold as a good box).. as i got it off a mate.. not sure where he got it from..

also.. I think i need to replace the uni on the steering box end of the 75 series intermediate shaft.

anyone know if this is easy to do (ie, by me at home?).. there is a bit of play and i'd rather fix it sooner than later..
I tried this myself, but when i went to order the part was told the whole joint was non-serviceable, and to buy the whole joint new, not just the uni
wouldn't that be the whole intermediate shaft?

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 4:35 pm
by TWISTY
shorty_f0rty wrote:also.. I think i need to replace the uni on the steering box end of the 75 series intermediate shaft.
I've got 2 or 4 left over uni's from when I did mine. Cant remember exactly what they came off, but its either 80 series or 75. If one of them suits you welcome to have 1. (Can possibly drop them off queens bday long weekend too)

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:01 pm
by bad_religion_au
shorty_f0rty wrote:
bad_religion_au wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:bit of an update..

ive discovered a slow leak at the steering box.. it appears to be coming out where the splined shaft goes in.. its not too much to worry about but it is a bit of a bummer.. i'm trying to find out the history of the box (find out if it was sold as a good box).. as i got it off a mate.. not sure where he got it from..

also.. I think i need to replace the uni on the steering box end of the 75 series intermediate shaft.

anyone know if this is easy to do (ie, by me at home?).. there is a bit of play and i'd rather fix it sooner than later..
I tried this myself, but when i went to order the part was told the whole joint was non-serviceable, and to buy the whole joint new, not just the uni
wouldn't that be the whole intermediate shaft?
not sure if you and i are thinking about the same joint... i'll have a look at my column later and let you know. i'm thinking the joint that takes a splined shaft at both ends.

steering

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:29 pm
by bad mudda
G,day i,ve just fixed my 60s steering box, it was leaking in the same spot, repco and toyota were useless at getting the replacment seal so i went to the local bearing's & bolt's place they found the exact same seal within 5 mins charged me 3 buck's and i was on my way problem solved.

Also i have the same set up with the collapsable steering arm and uni's and found it easy to work with and strong/safe.



Image

Image




I never thought it looked to fancy untill i saw some of the other set up's.

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:44 pm
by RAY185
bad_religion_au wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:
bad_religion_au wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:bit of an update..

ive discovered a slow leak at the steering box.. it appears to be coming out where the splined shaft goes in.. its not too much to worry about but it is a bit of a bummer.. i'm trying to find out the history of the box (find out if it was sold as a good box).. as i got it off a mate.. not sure where he got it from..

also.. I think i need to replace the uni on the steering box end of the 75 series intermediate shaft.

anyone know if this is easy to do (ie, by me at home?).. there is a bit of play and i'd rather fix it sooner than later..
I tried this myself, but when i went to order the part was told the whole joint was non-serviceable, and to buy the whole joint new, not just the uni
wouldn't that be the whole intermediate shaft?
not sure if you and i are thinking about the same joint... i'll have a look at my column later and let you know. i'm thinking the joint that takes a splined shaft at both ends.
Yeah I think Andy is talking about the joint at the steering box end of the shaft. Its the male part of the intermediate shaft that goes up into the female slip joint (sounds naughty don't it). I've not had to replace that uni before. I'd assume you could get that uni if you were to pull it apart and get it matched up but no one would have a listing on it. What about getting just that section of the shaft from the wreckers?

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:45 pm
by shorty_f0rty
RAY185 wrote: Yeah I think Andy is talking about the joint at the steering box end of the shaft. Its the male part of the intermediate shaft that goes up into the female slip joint (sounds naughty don't it). I've not had to replace that uni before. I'd assume you could get that uni if you were to pull it apart and get it matched up but no one would have a listing on it. What about getting just that section of the shaft from the wreckers?
yeh thats the bit ray.. i should have had a closer inspection when i picked it up from the wreckers..

upon closer inspection of the uni the ends dont have any retaining clips or nothin. they are like cast ends.. anyway.. i'll have a poke around and see what the go is. i wonder what the dude at the wreckers will say when i go back and ask em for a replacement.. or price another intermediate shaft.

i wonder if sunshine state 4wd have a part # for that uni/part?
bad mudda wrote:G,day i,ve just fixed my 60s steering box, it was leaking in the same spot, repco and toyota were useless at getting the replacment seal so i went to the local bearing's & bolt's place they found the exact same seal within 5 mins charged me 3 buck's and i was on my way problem solved.
did that seal fix your leak? how hard was it to replace and can you remember the specs on the seal

steering

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 9:41 pm
by bad mudda
You just need a hammer and nail punch to undo the big bolt that's surrounding input shaft on the box, tap the bolt with the punch in the slot's provided and when you get it unscrewed the seal is pressed in to the back of the bolt pluck it out with finger or screwdriver.
The seal has number's on it which ment nothing to repco and toyota they wanted to know year model's and crap and said there were 3 different types and wanted 90 buck's either way for a seal kit, so some one tell's me to go to a bearing shop, i had 2 to choose from in the same town, first guy new exactly what he was doing had a sh!t load of seal's there mached up the number's, double checked on the computer after matching calabration then charged me a whole 3 buck's.

Since putting the new seal in the leak has gone. :armsup:

Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 9:27 am
by shorty_f0rty
enquired with sunshine state 4wd parts (Don kyatt here in qld).. and they have a uni to fit the intermediate shaft.. they say its a press fit (assuming its the entire joint/coupling not just the uni)..

they only have 1 in stock for about $35 .. they also said toyota only sell the shaft complete, no replacement uni from them..

i might hassle the wreckers tomorrow and see if they will come to the party.

Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 12:24 pm
by bj on roids
still not back on the road?

Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 5:08 pm
by pcman
yeah im slow but here are pics of a compressed hj75 tilt colum in a fj45

Image

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Image

Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 4:31 pm
by shorty_f0rty
bj on roids wrote:still not back on the road?
yeh bj ive been driving it.. there was a little bit of play in the steering..

went to the wreckers this morn and found just the joint, got it for free so that made replacing it pretty easy.. its in now and has made a big improvement in the handling thats for sure!

i also got a chance to flex it up.. the front drivers side compressed still has a heap of room before it touches the pitman arm.. i've got some pics but will throw them up later this evening.

Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 5:59 pm
by shorty_f0rty
drivers side compressed.. still a bit of room
Image
passenger side compressed.
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Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 1:13 pm
by bj on roids
so plenty of clearance even with the 60 pitman?
cool

Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 8:52 pm
by bubs
If only I had this kit a few weeks ago.

Image

Buddy

Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 3:32 pm
by bj on roids
looks good buddy, do you weld the plates on?