Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i know the thread said budget diffs, but i think this is mildly relevant to the discussion

toyota 10.5" rear (out of 2007 on tundra!)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-t ... -pics.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

looks like a weapon nexto the 9.5" toyota diff!

ARB has a locker for it, and 4.88 nitro gears are available too.

http://www.justdifferentials.com/index. ... =22_37_532" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



these centers could be great to drop into a very strong custom housing!??

with the availability in aus you would be better off with a patrol diff wouldnt you, the rear h233 is strong enough for most things and the h260 in a braced housing with stock axles will be a lot cheaper and should be just as strong as the unit above, availability of gears for the big patrol one might be an issue.

how would the marks portals hold up? the price is for a full conversion with engineers cert. would they handle big power with 37's on an arb locked diff with stock axles/cv's

440 BB wrote:with the availability in aus you would be better off with a patrol diff wouldnt you, the rear h233 is strong enough for most things and the h260 in a braced housing with stock axles will be a lot cheaper and should be just as strong as the unit above, availability of gears for the big patrol one might be an issue.

That was/is my exact thoughts and the whole reason I built my dana60/GQ diff.

I've been out 3 weekends in a row (1 comp) with my new 42" stickies (holy farking grip) and tried stupid things (driven into vertical walls with my front bar/hangers, full noise and steering left to right) and just plain beaten on it and it hasn't missed a beat..... I have scretched the paint.....

440 BB wrote:with the availability in aus you would be better off with a patrol diff wouldnt you, the rear h233 is strong enough for most things and the h260 in a braced housing with stock axles will be a lot cheaper and should be just as strong as the unit above, availability of gears for the big patrol one might be an issue.

how would the marks portals hold up? the price is for a full conversion with engineers cert. would they handle big power with 37's on an arb locked diff with stock axles/cv's

thats very true

is still a tank of a toyota diff though

i wonder if these are just a hino diff, and the arb locker will fit local 10.5" hino diff centres????

If bits didn't break as often you wouldn't need readily available parts as you'll only be maintaining not replacing!

I'm looking at diff options too and at this stage it looks d60/14b are a cheap option

The late model 14b is a good option - you can pick up a late model 14b including all the disc brake hardware for less than $500 in Australia.

Miraz wrote:The late model 14b is a good option - you can pick up a late model 14b including all the disc brake hardware for less than $500 in Australia.

Really?? Where??

Yeah, I would like a piece of that 14B action too for those $$$



brooksy

Tru that!

Give these guys a call - http://www.johdampet.com.au/yukon/

When I spoke to them last week they had one late model 14b in stock, and several older units.

I bought an 1985 14b from them last year and did the shave/truss thing to it.

Thats interesting Miraz, thanks for the link. I picked up a complete F-350 Dana 70 rear diff this morning. Not sure what Im going to do with it yet.

I have sold my Mog 404's off - but if i was to build an other deadicated rock crawler i would deffenantly go portals again, strong, reliable and ground clearance ..

I have got my hands on a set of Dana diffs im currently rebuilding - front a Dana 50/60 custom built by meself, running 35 spline axles, full spool, 5.13 ratio, unit bearing hubs, custom high steer by RDG Engineering all for less than $2500..
Rear is a Dana 70, standard 35 spinle axles, Ruff Stuff rear truss kit, 5.13 ratio gears for about $1500...
Both will be running 4 pot hilux calipers with custom disc also by RDG..

to me for less than 4K you cant go wrong..

Dana 60 is 9.75" crown wheel
Dana 70 is 10.5" crown wheel - same as the tundra rear end.

MogLux wrote:I have sold my Mog 404's off - but if i was to build an other deadicated rock crawler i would deffenantly go portals again, strong, reliable and ground clearance ..

I have got my hands on a set of Dana diffs im currently rebuilding - front a Dana 50/60 custom built by meself, running 35 spline axles, full spool, 5.13 ratio, unit bearing hubs, custom high steer by RDG Engineering all for less than $2500..
Rear is a Dana 70, standard 35 spinle axles, Ruff Stuff rear truss kit, 5.13 ratio gears for about $1500...
Both will be running 4 pot hilux calipers with custom disc also by RDG..

to me for less than 4K you cant go wrong..

Dana 60 is 9.75" crown wheel
Dana 70 is 10.5" crown wheel - same as the tundra rear end.

And shitty ball joint knuckles

WICKED wrote:

MogLux wrote:I have sold my Mog 404's off - but if i was to build an other deadicated rock crawler i would deffenantly go portals again, strong, reliable and ground clearance ..

I have got my hands on a set of Dana diffs im currently rebuilding - front a Dana 50/60 custom built by meself, running 35 spline axles, full spool, 5.13 ratio, unit bearing hubs, custom high steer by RDG Engineering all for less than $2500..
Rear is a Dana 70, standard 35 spinle axles, Ruff Stuff rear truss kit, 5.13 ratio gears for about $1500...
Both will be running 4 pot hilux calipers with custom disc also by RDG..

to me for less than 4K you cant go wrong..

Dana 60 is 9.75" crown wheel
Dana 70 is 10.5" crown wheel - same as the tundra rear end.

And shitty ball joint knuckles

But No SHITTY NISSAN SHIT..

MogLux wrote:

WICKED wrote:

MogLux wrote:
I have got my hands on a set of Dana diffs im currently rebuilding - front a Dana 50/60 custom built by meself, running 35 spline axles, full spool, 5.13 ratio, unit bearing hubs, custom high steer by RDG Engineering all for less than $2500.

And shitty ball joint knuckles

But No SHITTY NISSAN SHIT..

The only diff you haven't broke and you pay it out.

WICKED wrote:

MogLux wrote:

WICKED wrote:

MogLux wrote:
I have got my hands on a set of Dana diffs im currently rebuilding - front a Dana 50/60 custom built by meself, running 35 spline axles, full spool, 5.13 ratio, unit bearing hubs, custom high steer by RDG Engineering all for less than $2500.

And shitty ball joint knuckles

But No SHITTY NISSAN SHIT..

The only diff you haven't broke and you pay it out.

Iv never broken a 60 diff .... i wouldnt put nissan stuff under anyones car for them mate you know that.. this is why we get along so so well benny if we always agreed with each other it would be boring.. , so much more aftermarket options for the toyotas and just as strong as a pootrol diff..

MogLux wrote:

WICKED wrote:

MogLux wrote:

WICKED wrote:

MogLux wrote:
I have got my hands on a set of Dana diffs im currently rebuilding - front a Dana 50/60 custom built by meself, running 35 spline axles, full spool, 5.13 ratio, unit bearing hubs, custom high steer by RDG Engineering all for less than $2500.

And shitty ball joint knuckles

But No SHITTY NISSAN SHIT..

The only diff you haven't broke and you pay it out.

Iv never broken a 60 diff .... i wouldnt put nissan stuff under anyones car for them mate you know that.. this is why we get along so so well benny if we always agreed with each other it would be boring.. , so much more aftermarket options for the toyotas and just as strong as a pootrol diff..

Is that why you helped put a GU diff under a certain Bundy recently

Is that why you helped put a GU diff under a certain Bundy recently [/quote]


Pricey I fitted the coilovers Paul fitted the diff with Dane .. Lol

MogLux wrote:Is that why you helped put a GU diff under a certain Bundy recently

Pricey I fitted the coilovers Paul fitted the diff with Dane .. Lol [/quote]


Whatever matt! you got Owned!!

When you lads say "built Dana 60" what is involved in getting it from under an f truck to a bullet proof diff in a crawler?

How reliable are they in stock form?

I have a bloke who can get me Dana gear from down south and instead of pumping $$ into my lux diffs I'm considering the Dana Gear.

Also what's a good price for a bone stock D60 fresh from a late model F350?

Dana's have more combos than mcdonalds.

As a rule of thumb, SRW, FF and kingpin diffs are your strongest and have the most aftermarket parts. There are almost 15 different ratio/CW choices. Both high pinion and low pinion combos available. 5,6,8 stud choices with a few different PCD's. Normal, HD and U combos. 21,27,30,35 and 40 spline choices.

If none of that above made any sense at all, jump onto pirate4x4 and have a look at their DANA bibles. Everything you want to know is there.

A stock D60 is about as strong as a stock GQ/GU/80/60 but with aftermarket parts can handle 40+ tyres without a bother.

Alot of guys over in the states get great reliability out of a stock housing, stock axles with chromo ujoints.

Nah that made a fair bit of sense. Is there a rose in the thorns that most people go for? Like a low ratio high pinion 35 spline with kingpins?

Why pay so much for Dana gear if you can get equivalent strength (80s GQ) for cheaper? Or is the idea of buying a Dana just a blank canvas for wildly strong aftermarket gear?

Cheers
Luke

Gq gu cvs are weak as. Aftermarket chromos are hit and miss.

80s have a weaker diff center

You can put the best parts of these together and have a pretty strong setup but you still have small brakes, small bearings, 30spl max, minimal steer lock. Good but not great.

Dana gear can be expensive but if you can find yourself a good Chevy or Ford diff cheap enough you can get heaps more strength and reliability for the same price.

A standard D60 should be cheap, millions of them have been produced over the years...so they aren't worth very much.

The availability of aftermarket bits for the D60 spec diffs is a big part of the attraction - there are uprated aftermarket equivalents for just about every component, including complete diff assemblies. But it is also the start of a slippery slope....you might be able to pick up a stock D60 for peanuts, but by the time you have changed the gears, locker, bearings, axles, yokes, brakes, etc then it will start to add up.

Its basically the same deal as when you're looking at a comp truck / buggy. The initial outlay is expensive if you buy one that is already built and ready to run but it will actually be much cheaper in the long run. However you can pace yourself if you buy all the bits when you can afford it. So which one will you choose.

There is a massive shift away from jap diffs now with the aussie dollar up as high as it is. Means getting things from the states is much more affordable. I've settled on getting a Jana 76 for the front (Dana 60 with D70 center) and a 14 bolt for the rear. To keep initial costs down I'm going to run braced stock housings and then upgrad later on.

You should see a comparison between this stuff and what the full blown trophy trucks are running. Fark me they run some big big stuff.

I too have gone jana76 front and 14b rear. They will cost me similar price to Toyota stuff but will be a heap stronger!

evanstaniland wrote:I too have gone jana76 front and 14b rear. They will cost me similar price to Toyota stuff but will be a heap stronger!

Anyone NOT looking at this sort of combo and instead still trying to persist with Jap diffs has their head well and truly wedged up their arse. Saying that Jana76/14b combo is a heap stronger than Toy/Nissan is like saying Lex Steele's cawk is a heap bigger than a bee's dick.

IMHO the Jana76/14b combo is the pick...unless you're a Jewsih real estate mogul (Milo) and can afford full custom 14bolt drop outs front and rear. Now THAT is the SHIAT.

^^^

True that!

Micka wrote: unless you're a pimp of considerable standing with a classy establishment catering to those with midget fetishes and a troupe of circus midgets (Milo) and can afford full custom 14bolt drop outs front and rear. Now THAT is the SHIAT.

Fixed for you.

Did i mention that even made out of alloy, i can barely move the thirds around the garage floor??

But as mentioned a 14b and stocker D60 is a great budget start for a strong rig. And the platform is there to slowly add better parts to the D60. Ouverson and Branik also do some great aftermarket stuff for the 14B

And you forgot these babies going in the front Micka

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general- ... axles.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am glad to see my suggestion of the Jana combos years ago are starting to come here. I have however changed my mind from Jana76 combo to 9" now. However I still may go back as I have D60's sitting in my shed.
14 Bolt has never factored as I don't see the need unless in a heavy rig.


brooksy