Outer Limits 4x4 Board

pleiades wrote:Use the Datto.

its got a tow bar

pleiades wrote:Use the Datto.

could you just imagine chrises mum when he has that thing hooked up behind the datto

would be piss funny to see tho

just imagine him rocking up to tuff truck or a rock crawling event with datto and zook in tow not to diss the dattto tho

post up sum pics of the new front clip ya got bud

kroozer91 wrote:just imagine him rocking up to tuff truck or a rock crawling event with datto and zook in tow not to diss the dattto tho

i think i'd be cool to tow the zook with the datto, its not every day that you see a V8 260Z being used as a tow rig , its just a bit light almost as light as the zook.

did you say datto 260z with a v8 ithink i need pics of this one please

yer v8's in 260z's is not unusual but its done more in the states than here

yeah i got a video clip on here somewhere about a 260z with a twin supercharged 350 (man is it a nice looking and sounding car)

It's a little beast. 4.6 Rover/Buick. What gearbox' it got Chris?

leyland p76. 4.4lt alloy V8. only prob is its an auto. but still smokes the rubber in second

auto box will soon be replace with either a supra or celica 5 speed

flyinwall wrote:did you say datto 260z with a v8 ithink i need pics of this one please

Try http://www.darius240z.com/ This thing has some serious mumbo!

There is a few videos of it, do a search for them(more out there too)

When you're finished the mountain goat you should put a Dodge Viper replica kit on it.

And people think we're overpaid NOW...

one thing with the old z cars is that they always look good and yours looks fantastic

hey barathrum

ive got some pics ill send u later 2nite
matts 4x4

daryl

Can I ask you what wheel base lux springs streached your wheel base to?? Or have you put lux springs in the front too?

i've got lux springs front and rear. i have lux front in the front, but with the centre pin redrilled to move the front axle froward. i extended the chassis at the front. the front is about 4inchs forward overall. with the rear i used roughtly the same mounting postion for the front of the rear springs but as i made new mounts they they're about 1 inch further back then stock. with the lux rears in backwards the rear axle is 8inchs further back than stock.
my wheelbase comes out at 92inchs. probally not long enought yet, but it'll do me for a while.

daryl wrote:hey barathrum

ive got some pics ill send u later 2nite
matts 4x4

daryl

it's still only a datto

Barathrum wrote:leyland p76. 4.4lt alloy V8. only prob is its an auto. but still smokes the rubber in second

has ya old man sorted out the problems that he was having with the engine|?

i stripped down my old NT alxes today for something to do. what'd to check and see how my diff and axles had held up to my abuse. every thing looked really good untill i pulled the carrier apart.
This diff was locked fozzy stlye( you cant see the weld in the photo cause the gears are spun around). i belive that because the fozzy stlye of welded diff allows a small amount of movement within the side gears, this put more force upon the cast diff housing as it will load up suddenly. If the center was welded solid it might not of cracked the housing.

Front was all good .... lucky

Bad JuJu wrote:Front was all good .... lucky

that's good to know. i thought it looked allright when i pulled the front out. it wasn't welded
the rear looked really good untill i pulled it completly apart.
I wouldn't recomend to anyone to weld their diff in the fozzy style now. weld it solid. ithink the shock load of when it loads up probally broke it.
But then a simliar thing would happen with an auto locker too i suppose?? has anyone had anyprobs with breaking diffs in the same spot as i did with an auto locker?

got back from holidays yesterday, so its back into the zook. now has tube front
still lots of shyte to get done. like finish off my cage, mount rear shocks and then lots of other little stuff. also gotta work out exactly how i'm gonna finish off the back. i'm thinking of just running a bar and a little bit of sheet metal so that its dovetail style, but still undecided. maybe even a little trayback.

anyway heres a couple of pics

looking good buddy

that front tube bar looks good makes it look tuff as!!

i reckon you should go the little tray back style on it to keep a little bit of weight over the rear axel just a suggestion

Sweet stuff mate!

kroozer91 wrote:i reckon you should go the little tray back style on it to keep a little bit of weight over the rear axel just a suggestion

yeah i does really need a little bit of weight over the rear. its just a bit too light at the moment. you can lift the back up a little and slide it sideways if ya wanted to.

looking great!

IMO I would build something similar to Roc70y tray or Sam kecks. A flat bed would mean your weight would be stored up high. The dove tail idea is good coz all your gear would be level with the chassis, good for cog. But I would have some sort of cover over the wheels so your not coping heaps of mud and rocks the back of the head as they are flicked up by those lovely meats

tufflux wrote:it's still only a datto

is that you clint

DeWsE wrote:IMO I would build something similar to Roc70y tray or Sam kecks. A flat bed would mean your weight would be stored up high. The dove tail idea is good coz all your gear would be level with the chassis, good for cog. But I would have some sort of cover over the wheels so your not coping heaps of mud and rocks the back of the head as they are flicked up by those lovely meats

i really like the look of a dovetail back. and its the way that i'm most likely to go.
i have no idea what to do about flying stuff from the back or even the front tires. there's no way that i'll cover them with flares(cause i don't like flares and its too wide). for winter i'm thinking about some sorta soft top with a back on it so that i don't get covered in mud.

even with the rear tucked up the tires still stick a long way out.

Motorbike flares? or something like what project low may be using.

cheers