Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i have been told to chain my engine down so that when the next engine mount goes the engine cant take off

just chasing some ideas on how and what sorta chain etc

ps its a 4.2 diesel gq

It doesn't have to be too heavy, just average drag chain size links, and a turn buckle so you can adjust it. Or even just a turn buckle will do.

We used about 2-3 links bolted to our V8, then the turn buckle and another 3 links welded to the left hand chassis rail.

You could make it prettier by mounting an old suspension arm from a Corolla (or something) that has rubber bushes each end. Just cut and shut to suit the length, all bolts and the arm would be about $10 from a wrecker.

You just need to fab up the mounts, not hard.

Or you could go the other way and use no8 fencing wire or an old seat belt tied in.

Chains rattle like a bitch, a real PITA when you need to listen for bearing noises etc, etc.

Look for a different engine mount that is more secure, from a torquer engine say a V8. You want a captive mount, that even if the rubber fails will still hold.

on another car we had, we welded up the mount, and with a solid cammed clevo, it wasn't much harsher.

I was having earthing troubles once so my cousin told me to use a big heavy duty earth strap which would also double as a strap to hold the engine incase a mount broke.

We use these big heavy duty ones at work for earthing the powerstation enclosures we build!

badger wrote:i have been told to chain my engine down so that when the next engine mount goes the engine cant take off

just chasing some ideas on how and what sorta chain etc

ps its a 4.2 diesel gq

the later GQ's have captive mounts. See if you can upgrade to these.

Jes

CRUSHU wrote:on another car we had, we welded up the mount, and with a solid cammed clevo, it wasn't much harsher.

this way you end up with twisted and cracked chassis.
unless you build the chassis up around it.

Jes

jessie928 wrote:

CRUSHU wrote:on another car we had, we welded up the mount, and with a solid cammed clevo, it wasn't much harsher.

this way you end up with twisted and cracked chassis.
unless you build the chassis up around it.

Jes

Christ!! how much power are you expecting?? 6000hp?
The Motor is already mounted further down the chassis, all you are doing is spreading the load, not all the load.

You would be surprised how little force is transmitted thru engine torque.

A 8000hp Top Fuel engine is held in by 4 T clamps.

These are my engine mounts on a 1.3 sierra,also rear gearbox mount and transfer on same bushes,nissan patrol,no breaky,no movement
Cheers Paul.

I Can Recall hearing that when Holden Red engines were fitted to Land rovers they used some steel cable to hold them back. (This is achaic I know but might be worth investigating).

CRUSHU wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

CRUSHU wrote:on another car we had, we welded up the mount, and with a solid cammed clevo, it wasn't much harsher.

this way you end up with twisted and cracked chassis.
unless you build the chassis up around it.

Jes

Christ!! how much power are you expecting?? 6000hp?
The Motor is already mounted further down the chassis, all you are doing is spreading the load, not all the load.

You would be surprised how little force is transmitted thru engine torque.

A 8000hp Top Fuel engine is held in by 4 T clamps.

its not about HP, its about torque.

when you put the foot down, it your putting down some gut wrenching torque, and you have ample traction, then things will bend and stretch.
have you ever seen what happens to LJ toranas and cortinas with v8's?
the entire chassis bends like a banana not just the engine mount

if mounts have been designed to be rubber and not solid, the surrounding chassis is also designed this way. I have cracked and ripped chassis's that were using tight chains to stop the flex.

you can by all means solid mount it, but you have to consider the ramifications on a chassis that was designed to have rubber to absorb the shockloading.

Jes

yeah the torque is my issue ..............
the suspension link idea sounds good
ive got a few old gq rear arms here i might see if one will fit shortened of course

Try Ontrack 4x4 in Melbourne. They make good aftermarket engine mounts to suit GQ's that won't brek.

Dont know what a GQ mount looks like but on my Torana we put the chain from where the mount bolts to the block, then the other end goes onto the engine mount to subframe bolt, dont know if that helps

There was a thread here earlier that used seatbelt webbing wrapped around the mount to help limit the max flex the rubber gets..

Would it be possible to drill two holes through the mont and put some 10mm bolts through with some hardedend washers and nylock nuts again to limit the stretch the rubber part of the mount gets and in event of a failure you have the motor still pretty well captive

looking at the side of the block and the mounts on the chassis today
there isnt alot there to fix to any one got any pics or directions of what holes i could use?

Have you considered using an engine torque damper??
Some import tuning guys use them (mainly for bling!) but i'm sure they would help reduce some of the torsional forces....
Plus if you did break an engine mount, they should aid in preventing the engine from torque twisting itself to bits??

Something like this..



Just trying to think outside the box
Later
Dan

badger wrote:yeah the torque is my issue ..............
the suspension link idea sounds good
ive got a few old gq rear arms here i might see if one will fit shortened of course

I had the same problem with my GQ. It was a combination of 83% reduction gears and the auto and I was breaking mounts every second time I went off road.

I just chained my left mount down because that is the way the engine torques. I used just hardware store chain as a temperary fix 12 months ago and it hasn't broken so I haven't bothered replacing it with hi tensile chain yet.







You can tell by that last photo how much torque twist I was getting before I fitted the chain.

I like Jess's idea though. Next time I do an engine mount i'll look into getting the later model engine mounts.


Cheers Mick.

Davidh wrote:Try Ontrack 4x4 in Melbourne. They make good aftermarket engine mounts to suit GQ's that won't brek.

got a picture? wont' break is a big statement. im having the same problem with mine so im interested to see what idears are around

embryo wrote:

Davidh wrote:Try Ontrack 4x4 in Melbourne. They make good aftermarket engine mounts to suit GQ's that won't brek.

got a picture? wont' break is a big statement. im having the same problem with mine so im interested to see what idears are around

I believe they use a trailing arm bush. Give them a call and ask about it.
They're used on 200+rwkw cars without drama's so should be good!

I suggest welding a couple of links of chain from one side of the metal engine mount to the other on both sides. Still allows the mount to do what it should but limits travel.
Cheers,
Stinger