Page 1 of 1
gq cooling system Qs
Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 11:45 pm
by GOT MUD
Ok, ive searched but cant find some answers to these Qs.
Whats the best way to work out right amount of coolant and should i use concentrate or pre mix.
What is distilled water, i know you can buy it but is it the same if you boil tap water first then use it.
And i was talking to a old timer today and he said when ever hes had an issue with thermostats he takes them out,he says he cuts the spring section off and replaces the rest, esp in Qld conditions. He said it solves any prob hes had no matter what vechile hes had. Could this work or is it better just to replace it, iam actually not sure if its working or not.
The truck is a 4.2 diesel gq wagon and its getting hot,ie.up around 3/4 when towing and sitting on hwy at about 120-130kph for short periods get back to 100-110 temp comes down.
Any help would be great.
Cheers
Re: gq cooling system Qs
Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 11:51 pm
by bogged
muduppig wrote:Whats the best way to work out right amount of coolant and should i use concentrate or pre mix.
right amount - fill till full.
I've used NULON stuff - its ok
But I used to deliver tanktainers to a place in Hoxton Park that bottled the stuff from ICI in Botany, there were many different brands going down the same line back then (1990) (all main stream brands with different colouring)..
What is distilled water, i know you can buy it but is it the same if you boil tap water first then use it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distilled_water
boiled is ok.
is it better just to replace it
yes, they arent that expensive.
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 8:21 pm
by sleeping giant
try taking the radiator out and thoroughly washing it all over. My gq diesel was getting really hot on the beach, ended up just being the outside of it had dirt and mud caked through it. It helped me, might be worth a try.
Brad
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:46 pm
by Cossie
The back of the bottle will tell you what percentage t dilute it if necessary. I believe the GQ takes 13-15 litres to fill.
Mine had overheating problems a while back but it was the gap between the radiator and the condensor totally filled with mud and leaves etc (only 2 bolts to tilt it and check). Took rad out, cleaned outside and replaced - good as new.
If thermostat has gone just replace it - they only a few bucks.
Dont worry about distilled water, tap water and coolant is fine.
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 11:17 pm
by GOT MUD
thanks for the replys will start working on it
Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 6:49 pm
by 85lux
to anyone chasing chasing consistant running and extra torque, the td series cooling system is abismal...
this is in fact the case for most engines. sacrifice a radiator top hose and cut a section out of the middle, then use hoseclamps to secure a clear plastic tube in there. now you can see what your coolant looks like in the engine. it is not the pretty mix you see in the filler cap or the bottle, but more like a spa bath-full of bubbles.
bubbles are bad. the purpose of coolant is to carry heat away from the engine, the key here is consistantcy. consistancy between the front and the back of the engine. the steam bubbles you see are a fantastic insulator(thats bad) those steam bubbles stick to the hotter areas like around exhaust valves and let them get even hotter. inconsistant temps cause inconsistant thermal expansion in critical areas. now your exhaust valve doesn't seat. there goes power, torque, economy etc (hey presto, you just cracked a head)
there is a cylinder head company in tullamarine, vic who will not warrant their heads unless the pump has been modded to increase its efficiency. another great mod it to drill and tap 1/8 bsp holes in the head to break into the top of the coolant galleries and allow the steam to excape(in a standard head it gets trapped) thread barb fittings in and plumb these fittings into the top of the radiator.
this is just the tip of the iceberg. if anyone is interested in learing more and greatly improving these engines, PM me and i will point you in the right directions for further reading.
Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:24 pm
by dirtyGQ
Also have your radiator header tank pulled off and cores brushed by a radiator shop. Block flushing also helps,and make sure your truck is not over fueling as this also makes them run hot (fixed with dyno tune) .Btw i would not mess with your thermostat as if it runs too cool it can cause bore glazing. Been down this alley and now all fixed.
Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:27 pm
by patrol42
85lux wrote:to anyone chasing chasing consistant running and extra torque, the td series cooling system is abismal...
this is in fact the case for most engines. sacrifice a radiator top hose and cut a section out of the middle, then use hoseclamps to secure a clear plastic tube in there. now you can see what your coolant looks like in the engine. it is not the pretty mix you see in the filler cap or the bottle, but more like a spa bath-full of bubbles.
bubbles are bad. the purpose of coolant is to carry heat away from the engine, the key here is consistantcy. consistancy between the front and the back of the engine. the steam bubbles you see are a fantastic insulator(thats bad) those steam bubbles stick to the hotter areas like around exhaust valves and let them get even hotter. inconsistant temps cause inconsistant thermal expansion in critical areas. now your exhaust valve doesn't seat. there goes power, torque, economy etc (hey presto, you just cracked a head)
there is a cylinder head company in tullamarine, vic who will not warrant their heads unless the pump has been modded to increase its efficiency. another great mod it to drill and tap 1/8 bsp holes in the head to break into the top of the coolant galleries and allow the steam to excape(in a standard head it gets trapped) thread barb fittings in and plumb these fittings into the top of the radiator.
this is just the tip of the iceberg. if anyone is interested in learing more and greatly improving these engines, PM me and i will point you in the right directions for further reading.
NMot saying this stuff is any good..but the Redlinet Water Wetter (
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp) is supposed to reduce the size of the bubbles, one of the things it is s'posed to do anyway
Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 10:53 am
by Jimbo
Hey 85lux do you know where or how to mod the water pump? Any info would be great.
Jimmy
Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:21 pm
by 85lux
PM Sent
Re: gq cooling system Qs
Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:11 pm
by weeksy
muduppig wrote:Ok, ive searched but cant find some answers to these Qs.
Whats the best way to work out right amount of coolant and should i use concentrate or pre mix.
Most coolant manufacturers will list the correct ratio to use.
Ideally you would use a refractometer, which would tell you exactly what percentage of coolant/water you have. About 40-50% (most radiator or good workshops should have one).
A concentrate is easier, but both are good so long as you achieve the correct percentage.
What is distilled water, i know you can buy it but is it the same if you boil tap water first then use it.
Don't waste your time with distilled water unless the tap water you are using is extremely high in chemicals
And i was talking to a old timer today and he said when ever hes had an issue with thermostats he takes them out,he says he cuts the spring section off and replaces the rest, esp in Qld conditions. He said it solves any prob hes had no matter what vechile hes had. Could this work or is it better just to replace it, iam actually not sure if its working or not.
Cutting the ASS out of a thermostat is an old trick to bandaid a stuck unit.
Definately replace it with a GOOD quality one.
The purpose of a thermostat is to get the engine to operating temperature as quickly as possible, and to maintain that temperature too.
Your radiator fluid needs to spend an amount of time in the radiator being cooled (regulated by the thermostat), chopping your thermostat will not help this cause.
The truck is a 4.2 diesel gq wagon and its getting hot,ie.up around 3/4 when towing and sitting on hwy at about 120-130kph for short periods get back to 100-110 temp comes down.
Sounds to me like your thermostat may be stuck open!!!
Just pull it out and have a look....
Any help would be great.
Cheers