Page 1 of 1

CASTOR SHIMS

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:59 am
by want33s
Does anyone know where I can get a couple of castor shims to put under the front diff? Do they work well? Are they legal in QLD?

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:10 am
by lay80n
How far is your caster out??

Layto....

Castor shims

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:39 am
by want33s
lay80n wrote:How far is your caster out??

Layto....
I think I need 2.5 degrees of correction.

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:16 pm
by Gwagensteve
Pedders sell caster wedges for (I think) $28 each. They might be a bit wide, we had to cut them down.

I reckon you might want to go a bit over stock caster. It will steer a lot better with more caster.

Steve.

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:20 pm
by lay80n
Gwagensteve wrote:Pedders sell caster wedges for (I think) $28 each. They might be a bit wide, we had to cut them down.

I reckon you might want to go a bit over stock caster. It will steer a lot better with more caster.

Steve.
Agree here. My castor is slightly more than stock from the knuckle rotate, and it self centres well. What have you changed to cause your caster to alter.??

Layto....

castor shims

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:52 pm
by want33s
Agree here. My castor is slightly more than stock from the knuckle rotate, and it self centres well. What have you changed to cause your caster to alter.??

Layto....[/quote]
2" lifted springs of unknown make is the only alteration to steering. I have replaced front wheel bearings, steering damper & front tyres and have checked everything else. U-bolts are good & tight, tyres balance well and are round, I even had them balanced on the car! Brake pads, rotors and caliper kits are all new and it stops straight. The problem seems worse with my toolbox and jack in the back(50-60kg).

Re: castor shims

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:41 pm
by lay80n
want33s wrote:Agree here. My castor is slightly more than stock from the knuckle rotate, and it self centres well. What have you changed to cause your caster to alter.??

Layto....
2" lifted springs of unknown make is the only alteration to steering. I have replaced front wheel bearings, steering damper & front tyres and have checked everything else. U-bolts are good & tight, tyres balance well and are round, I even had them balanced on the car! Brake pads, rotors and caliper kits are all new and it stops straight. The problem seems worse with my toolbox and jack in the back(50-60kg).[/quote]


Check the rear end too, this can influence the front end. Same thing. Bushs, tightness etc. Also check front spring bush's and shackle bush;s, Stumpeds zook had front end shudder issues, was spring bushs from memory.


Layto....

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:55 pm
by albey
i have the same problem
i got 2'' springs in mine

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:01 am
by SiKiD_01
diagrams above are spUa.

just fitting 2" lifted springs shouldn't put the castor out as much. fitting 2" longer shackles might.

if the back end sits a lot higher than the front end, your castor will be out, and shite, and so by weighing the back down with gear, so the zook sits level, or lower at the back, should really produce a better castor angle.

castor angle is better set to factory settings, or a little more, but if its too much, it will reduce the life of the wheel bearings and components a little more.

on the front diff, if you tilt your pinion up with out cutting and rotating the knuckles, you will have crap castor, and castor wedges will not solve that problem, as you will only be tilting the pinion back down again.

and also, if the two uni's on the driveshaft are at awkward and different angles to each other, you may get some vibration.

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:17 am
by MART
I was told you need to have a 4 degree lean backwards for correct steering geometry,so when you turn your wheels you get good contact with the road,Cheers Paul.

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:41 pm
by lay80n
Caster affects the return to centre quality of the front end gemoetry, and allows you to run small amounts of camber and still get good lateran traction when the whels are turned. Notice that as you turn the wheel, camber increases. This is due to the caster angle, and means that you can run only small (1 degree) or so of camber straight ahead, but still go round corners. Lack of caster will cause the shopping trolley feeling. Only fitting springs should not really change caster, unless you already have issues. Mine didnt change more than .3 of a degree with 2 inch lifted springs, and when i went spoa with flat springs, knuckle rotation has allowed the pinion angle to be good, and keeping my caster sorted out. Do you have extended shackes?? or is the arse end up high??

Have you checked/replaced the bushes in the springs/shackles?? Are the u-bolts new, or old stretched ones??

Layto....

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:04 pm
by want33s
lay80n wrote: Do you have extended shackes?? or is the arse end up high??

Have you checked/replaced the bushes in the springs/shackles?? Are the u-bolts new, or old stretched ones??

Layto....
Shackles are stock.
Vehicle sits LEVEL.
Springs, shocks, U-bolts, Spring bushes(poly), Steering damper (RTC Spring type) Brake rotors and wheel bearings are all new within last six months.

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:19 pm
by lay80n
want33s wrote:
lay80n wrote: Do you have extended shackes?? or is the arse end up high??

Have you checked/replaced the bushes in the springs/shackles?? Are the u-bolts new, or old stretched ones??

Layto....
Shackles are stock.
Vehicle sits LEVEL.
Springs, shocks, U-bolts, Spring bushes(poly), Steering damper (RTC Spring type) Brake rotors and wheel bearings are all new within last six months.

Have you checked their condition. I know when i was wheeling mine heaps i could chew through a set of shackle bush's that quick :shock:
Have you had a wheel alignment. If not get one, and get a readout including caster angle. Post it up, it might help us help you :D

Layto....
Layto....