Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all, Im new to this forum and would really appreciate some help with questions:

Is the 60 series power steering a better solution in a 40 series than the original power steering? Is this a popular thing to do? What if any are the advantages?

If anyone has fitted coils or airbags, does any part of the chassis need strengthening?

Having just fitted a disk brake front end from a 1982 model, the force required now is much higher. Whats the easy fix for this?

rgds

Brian

60 series p/steer is a huge improvment over the standard, removes a lot of linkages and is a stronger setup

chassis, its a landcruiser - your stuffed already

j/king have no idea on the cruiser frame

i would presume a master cylinder out of a 40 with front disks brakes would be your best bet on a early 40, but I wouldn't know as i have a lux

Excellent Bubs

thanks for your reply

looks like I've found the forum I've been looking for.

i've been wasting my time on overlander forum for so long asking technical questions - with not much in the way of intelligent answers

thanks again

for tech, you have come to the right place

BrianWood wrote:Hi all, Im new to this forum and would really appreciate some help with questions:

Is the 60 series power steering a better solution in a 40 series than the original power steering? Is this a popular thing to do? What if any are the advantages?

yes! search for 'crossover steering' and 'high-steer' (hy-steer, hi-steer etc), there is lots of good tech in the archives. advantages are much less bump steer, less linkages -> less slop/play, and it's stronger especially if you invest in high-steer arms.

If anyone has fitted coils or airbags, does any part of the chassis need strengthening?

there are changes to the 40's chassis over the years, very broadly, newer = stronger. If you make any radical suspension modification you will need to strengthen around spring/airbag perches and linkage location points. give the leafs a chance though, there is plenty of potential there. Shorty 40 on this forum has a nice, flexy 40 series on leafs.

Having just fitted a disk brake front end from a 1982 model, the force required now is much higher. Whats the easy fix for this?

bubs is spot on, get the booster and master cylinder from a later 40 and the leg effort will ease considerably. all landcruiser brakes from 1979 on (ie disk front end) are excellent if set up correctly, so if even with the booster you're having trouble stopping there might be issues with stuck pistons in the calipers, or your brake pads are too cheesey

rgds

Brian

welcome aboard, there is tons of good tech knowledge shared here, you'll be an expert in no time!

cheers

Brian

Wow, thanks for an informative reply.

I'm getting excited already thinking about modifications

Looking forward to spending more time on this forum...

BrianWood wrote:i've been wasting my time on overlander forum for so long asking technical questions - with not much in the way of intelligent answers

thanks again

Yeh funny thats what I found make sure you check out (ih8mud.com) as well..........Dazz

hrm if you have an '80 BJ40 didn't it come with a disk brake front? (ie why did you have to convert it?)

is it an LX with the 5 speed, cloth seats etc? those are pretty nice but I spose probably getting old by now. rust?

going to turbo it? the 3B is one of the most turbo-capable landcruiser motors, far better reliable power potential than the 2H.


stick with the leafs, spring it over.


also for engine/driveline tech you could join the DTLC mailing list (mail 'subscribe' to dtlc-request@helios.neet)

Dumdunce,

no, this came with drum brakes and the B (3 litre) motor. I think it was manufactured before the changeover in that year. Has the bullet proof 4 speed box.

Don't hear buch about the B motor, but I think its basically a 3B with smaller bore?? Has sleeves etc which makes rebuilding quite cheap. I guess it will turbo OK (have a TD04L from a WRX on order). Will also put front mount intercooler.

Do you know anything about the strength of these. Will they take 12psi at 530 deg OK reliably?

Had the crusty vinyl bucket/semi bench setup which I tossed for some magnificent fully adjustable buckets out of a daewoo (best part of their cars!). This has transformed the ride already!

Still thinking about suspension. Want to make it as comfy as possible (I know they weren't designed for comfort - its more of a challenge of mine)

Brian

BrianWood wrote:no, this came with drum brakes and the B (3 litre) motor. I think it was manufactured before the changeover in that year. Has the bullet proof 4 speed box.

hrm I thought the changeover was in '78 or '79 to the 3B, disc brakes etc (BJ42 deesignation) but I could be wrong! I am crurious to see whether it has the split or one-piece transfer case, and H41 or H42 gearbox. the 5 speed is pretty rugged too, it is essentially the same box as the H42 with an extra gear hung out in the extension housing.

Don't hear buch about the B motor, but I think its basically a 3B with smaller bore?? Has sleeves etc which makes rebuilding quite cheap. I guess it will turbo OK (have a TD04L from a WRX on order). Will also put front mount intercooler.

B motor is 3.0 litre, early ones were sleeved but I think a 1980 model is likely to be a one piece block. once again I could be wrong.

Do you know anything about the strength of these. Will they take 12psi at 530 deg OK reliably?

they are pretty bulletproof, 12psi shouldn't be a problem. keep a close eye on the EGT's though, 500 - 550 post turbo is probably safe but if it creeps up there is a danger of cracking the head and other bad stuff. Geoff Walsh http://www.gwengineparts.com.au/website/index.html stocks a high nickel crack resistant head for 3B's, don't know if there is a difference for the B motor.

Had the crusty vinyl bucket/semi bench setup which I tossed for some magnificent fully adjustable buckets out of a daewoo (best part of their cars!). This has transformed the ride already!

heh he I have hyundai seats in one of my cars!

Still thinking about suspension. Want to make it as comfy as possible (I know they weren't designed for comfort - its more of a challenge of mine)

believe it or not even leaf springs can be quite comfy, but it can take a bit of playing around with leaf packs and different/adjustable shocks to suite your preference - but coils or airbags will make a good project!

cheers

Brian

I thought the changeover was in '78 or '79 to the 3B, disc brakes etc (BJ42 deesignation) but I could be wrong! I am crurious to see whether it has the split or one-piece transfer case, and H41 or H42 gearbox. the 5 speed is pretty rugged too, it is essentially the same box as the H42 with an extra gear hung out in the extension housing.

The changover was sometime in 1980 and I've the H41.

Any ides as to what the cost would be of a Custom 3 stage 4 Leaf pack in the original 502mm I 603mm?

Is there much advantage of a Shackle Reversal for handling? - And disadvantages, Such as losing Castor on compression?

Gday Jonathan

Met you in the overlander forum a few times

This forum has impressed me already. Theres an enormous amount of knowledge here on technical issues

Enjoy

Brian

Jonathan Ferguson wrote:Any ides as to what the cost would be of a Custom 3 stage 4 Leaf pack in the original 502mm I 603mm?

Is there much advantage of a Shackle Reversal for handling? - And disadvantages, Such as losing Castor on compression?

no idea on leaf suspension costs.

my opinion on shackle reversal is that it buys you approach angle and a better ride, but it costs you handling, especially extra dive under brakes. I wouldn't do it to a truck that is regularly streeted. others will swear by shackle reversals though. get a range of opinions.