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Transfer popping out of low range ?
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:53 pm
by MUD400
Hi All,
Ive just bought a 71 Rangie with a 400 chev and 4speeed rover box a month ago.
When i bought the vehicle the guy told me to rock the loud pedal a little while holding the transfer stick once i change from low to high or it could pop out of high because it is a taper bearing transfer case. But my problem is now after taking it out for its second outing (&giving it a hard time) the transfer now keeps popping out of low range, I am not sure what type of tranfer it is (other than being a rover) but is look to be an alloy cast type with cooling fins.
Any ideas as to my Problem ?
transfer prob
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:26 pm
by Eyby
sounds like LT95 4 speed , transfer & gearbox in same housing, problem could be transfer needle roller bearings /main shaft & or shims between gears hope this helps
EYBY
PS might have spares if need
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:30 pm
by MUD400
Thanks Eyby
I was told that the gearbox and transfer had a Taper bearing conversion performed, i would have thought this eliminated the nedle bearings.
Do u Know what the Taper converion involves ?
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:48 pm
by mopar rangie
sounds like the shim set on the intermediate shaft or the needles rollers.when the shims wear out or the needles stuff up the gears and dogs tend to rock around.this and the changes of load will cause things to jump out.a lack of oil at some time will cause this.
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:48 pm
by Reddo
do the simple checks first, eg., are the levers fouling on anythoing? Lift the cover off and have a look at the mechanisms to see that they are moving freely. A body lift could cause problems too. Could be internal - we had this and it proved to be a detent ball bearing that had come adrift inside.
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:09 pm
by 460cixy
mine had the same drama but with high and found the fork adjustment was way out and would jump out on over run . too long like this and it kills the teeth on the dog clutch
Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:35 pm
by Tim D
if you have the tapered bearing conversion it's supposed to have preload on the bearings for the intermediate shaft.it can be identified by the hex bolt head and lock washer instead of the standard intermediate shaft and retaining tab,when looking from behind the transfer case.that conversion is the one that the oz army 110s and 6x6s use.no bronze/brass? shims in that set up,which is what normally wears and fails.
lt95
Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 9:36 pm
by Eyby
Tim D
would u or anyone else have pics of taper bearing
conversion & could u post them
thanks
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:27 am
by BJ
I've got a LT95 4spd for sale if anyone is interested. PM me
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 2:37 pm
by mu-stu
460cixy wrote:mine had the same drama but with high and found the fork adjustment was way out and would jump out on over run . too long like this and it kills the teeth on the dog clutch
Mine (LT95) doesn't have the taper bearing conversion (that I know of) but is jumping out of high range under load. It also did this in low occasionally. I have the workshop manual and have tried to work out where the shims and fork adjuster are before I launch head long into this! Are they pretty obvious and are they reached from the plate under the TC?
Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 7:14 pm
by 460cixy
pull the big plate off the bottom of the transfer and you can see everything. try adjusting the shift fork first that could be all it needs
URGENT HELP!!!
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 2:18 pm
by mu-stu
The shift fork is reach from above? i.e. take the front floor out and go from there? Because I've just taken the bottom plate off and can't see anything to adjust there...
Need to get this sorted today because I need to move the behicle ASAP..... <sigh>.....
Cheers
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 9:21 pm
by 460cixy
you sure its lt95?
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 9:46 pm
by mu-stu
It's a 4 speed......LT95's the only 4 speed, isn't it? Think this is it's number 35562536C....
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 10:18 pm
by 460cixy
there should be a big plate on the transfer and i thing it also has the drain bung in it from memerory. once its off you will see the up the top theres 2 forks on the dog clutch that is high and low range there will be a bolt on each fork to slide it on the rail closer to the dog clutch for adjustment
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:27 am
by mu-stu
That's the plate I've taken off. I'll have another look and grab some pics if need be.
Cheers
Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 7:29 pm
by mu-stu
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb25 ... 007196.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb25 ... 007195.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb25 ... 007194.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb25 ... 007193.jpg
These are the pics from underneath. Dunno if that gives much more info on where I'm looking?? I can see the shaft from the transfer lever which runs along the top of the box but it runs behind all the cogs, so can't get to any adjusters, if that's where they are?
Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 9:29 pm
by 460cixy
thats about as clear as mud. you might need to take the pto cover off for a better look.
does anyone here have any better4 pics?
Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 10:32 pm
by mu-stu
Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 10:02 pm
by 460cixy
where the fork that operates that dog clutch runs there will be two screw type grub screw things that lock the forks to the rod . if theres too much play where the fork engages the dog clutch it will keep jumping out. so you losen the screws and slide the fork along the rod to adjust the clearance. normaly the detent for high and low range is enough to keep it engauged when its adjusted properly. howerver if the teeth on the dog clutch are worn bad it will still jump out but normaly thats only if its been realy abused
