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1HDt motors - good or bad
Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 4:31 pm
by rockcrawler31
Hey all
i was just wondering, apart from big end failures what are the 1hdt motors like and do they have any dramas. what are the advantages of a 1hd-ft over the 1hd-t and is it worth the extra dollars.
Re: 1HDt motors - good or bad
Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:02 pm
by Shadow
rockcrawler31 wrote:Hey all
i was just wondering, apart from big end failures what are the 1hdt motors like and do they have any dramas. what are the advantages of a 1hd-ft over the 1hd-t and is it worth the extra dollars.
1HDFT is a multivalve version of the 1HDT, otherwise they are virtually the same engine. They have slightly more power 10% or so, slightly better economy and run a little nicer.
Other than more power and better economy, the 1HD-FT is newer, and more likely to have less k's on it.
The big end failures are generally a result of poor driving style, labouring the engine instead of shifting down a gear etc. Sure, they probably still shouldnt fail, but if you drive it properly you wont have a problem.
Other than this "problem" the 1HD-T 1HD-FT and 1HD-FET are a bomb proof engine and will happily go to 500thousand. The injector pump and turbo are likely to need a rebuild before 500K though.
Injectors are very important and should be done every 100thousand, 150thousand tops. If they havent been done as a part of the engines servicing schedule, they can suffer from overheating problems and even cracked pistons if the injectors are really bad and leaking.
Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:37 pm
by sniper
1HD-T is a tops motor
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:02 pm
by quick60
good !
quiet, powerful, economical.
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:57 pm
by Suspension Stuff
All of the above, really happy with the power but expensive to replace
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:13 pm
by dow50r
Hey...some have said they would prefer a hdt over a hdft in the bush....better low end torque....they do suffer bigend itis, but $400 every 100k service for new soon fixes that
Im fixing my hdft at the moment, and will be out of pocket to the tune of 3500 without going near the pump....(its been done b4)
Andrew
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:06 pm
by Shadow
dow50r wrote:Hey...some have said they would prefer a hdt over a hdft in the bush....better low end torque....they do suffer bigend itis, but $400 every 100k service for new soon fixes that
Im fixing my hdft at the moment, and will be out of pocket to the tune of 3500 without going near the pump....(its been done b4)
Andrew
Is the problem really that prevalent? I know a few guys who regularly service cruisers and they have said they've seen the odd one throw a bigend, but certainly not every one, and certainly not every 100k
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:57 pm
by sniper
It was originaly with the factory models and they were recalled.
But.....
Is it worth the risk every 100k to spend $400 for peace of mind to replace them. You have to do your timing and tensioner anyways at this time
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:20 pm
by rockcrawler31
I got a quote from toyota the other day. 7500 plus gst for a brand spanker. not sure if that includes turbo, but you would then need at least a grand for a pump.
so 8250 and 1000 = 9250 for a brand spanker, and the wreckers and importers are quoting 9g for an unknown second hander. which one would you pick
anyway, off topic. i just fitted a VDO temp guage to the 1hz and it reads 81-82 degrees round town, and goes up to 90 degrees on the highway. what is considered normal temps and what is considered getting hot in celcius? i still havn't managed to get out on a hot day and test with the new guage but it should prove interesting
1hz engine
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:45 pm
by Dents LN65
I would stick to a 1hz and fit a turbo with intercooler as an off the shelf tried and tested kit. As the bottom ends in 1hz ,1hdt & ft all use the same crank the only difference is top end & rods & pistons I would expect you will have the same big end problem once a turbo is fitted.
That temp increase sounds like the same problem I had with my hilux
around town temp would be fine but on the highway it would creep up to the red on the temp gauge so I would pull off to the side and imeadiatly the temp would go down. I tried refiling the fan clutch (diddn't work!
) so I bit the bullet and bought a new one, now the temp appears to be stable all speeds.
Good luck
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 10:40 pm
by dow50r
7.5k will get you a long motor, head to sump, no manifolds, no nothing....
my mates 91hdt has new bearings every 100k and they come out needing replacing, and they are ACL each time he has done them (2)
A
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 3:17 pm
by sniper
mine was replaced before I purchased it, at recall,years ago. Then I got them changed when I bought it for my own peace of mind, the ones that came out nota thing wrong with em...luck of the draw I guess.
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:43 pm
by cozzav8
1hz have a different crank to the 1hdt and fte, these cranks cant be ground if they spin a bearing due to being constucted using nitride hardening
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:02 pm
by guerd87
i have just spent around $4500 rebuilding mine myself, this included:
block bored out 20thou, acid dipped and top head plate machined
reco head from a mate in the game
reco + ground 1hdt crank
reco'd pump from northcoast diesel
reco'd rods
few other odds and ends
general rebuild kit (+ upper size pistons and bearings for crank)
pretty cheap build doing it myself, mechanics quoted no change from $10k, i done it in under half
John
Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:02 am
by frp88
guerd87 wrote:i have just spent around $4500 rebuilding mine myself, this included:
block bored out 20thou, acid dipped and top head plate machined
reco head from a mate in the game
reco + ground 1hdt crank
reco'd pump from northcoast diesel
reco'd rods
few other odds and ends
general rebuild kit (+ upper size pistons and bearings for crank)
pretty cheap build doing it myself, mechanics quoted no change from $10k, i done it in under half
John
how much time do you think you have spent and how long did the job take for you?
Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 4:35 am
by guerd87
the build was going on over a few months in between work (work away) and the fact the car was 400km north of where i currently live
if all the parts were in front of me and car was in my driveway i would epect less then a week, machine time was longest but head was done in 1 weekend and block work done in under 3 days
John
Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:24 am
by scottmcguinness172
and the prick still aint goin
its allgood she will be goin soon
just in time for fraser
Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:37 am
by CV Smasher
If you have money to burn buy the 1HDT, from the above list it seams it will be a costly exercise. I know personaly of at least 4 people who have done big ends and driving style had nothing to do with the big end failure as they all have different driving styles.
I dont know about everyone but i can assure you that not everyone has between 5 and 10k for an engine replacment on a car that you can pick up now for 15 to 20k.
I bought a 1hz 80 it now has nearly 400k on the clock and the only thing that has been done to it is servicing, injectors and pump. Bolt on a turbo and it will nearly ahve the same power as a 1hdt.
I know not all 1hdts were bad but if you have 5 or 10k spare lying around you should take it to the casino and put it on black as it seems from my experience you have more chance of winning than picking up a problem free 1hdt.
Just my own experience