Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i have checked the bible and cant find an exact answer.

I'm looking at doing RUF and would like to use the original spring hangers holes wher the rear of the springs bolt and use and extended shackel instead of a chassis extention.

My question is how long do the extended shackels have to be ? I have shakels that are 125mm hole centre to hole centre, will these work ?

Will this move the diff foward 25mm ?

I have 2" lifted leaves in the back do I need to start with another set of 2" leaves or do I start with a set of standard springs ?

Sorry for all the questions but I need it going by the weekend so I can rego it so i can take it to Bushranger in 10 days

Thanks again.

Redrill the spring perches and use an extended shackle. That way the diff should remain in nearly stock location.

Yes this will work, but it will also loose the main advantage of the RUF - The wheel base extension. Pushing the axle forward makes more room for the tyres, as well as making the ride and performance of the front much better. By moving the axle forward you are putting the engine's mass more towards the centre of the car.

Layto....

i re drilled the rear hanger and also re drilled the spring perches and it has moved the diff forward 25mm. it's the best single mod i have done as it softens the ride up and makes it much more comfortable to drive.

lay80n wrote:Yes this will work, but it will also loose the main advantage of the RUF - The wheel base extension. Pushing the axle forward makes more room for the tyres, as well as making the ride and performance of the front much better. By moving the axle forward you are putting the engine's mass more towards the centre of the car.

Layto....

Thats what i'm trying to do, use rears and move the diff foward but i wanted to use extended shackels.

I dont want to redrill the hangers or spring pads if i can get away from it.

Cheers nick

If you want to use the standard rear mount spring hanger holes then you will need a chassis extension. From memory one of the US mobs do a bolt on extension but I have no experience with these. I currently set mine up with the redrilled rear mounts and 2" shackles, softens the ride up nicely and gets good flex. Diff hasn't been moved forward yet.

CWBYUP wrote:
Thats what i'm trying to do, use rears and move the diff foward but i wanted to use extended shackels.

I dont want to redrill the hangers or spring pads if i can get away from it.

Cheers nick

It won't work. the shackles will invert if you use anything like a sensible shackle length. If you want to move the diff forward then you still have to move the shock mounts and the bumpstops which is plenty of work. Just redrill your spring pads with front springs if you want the diff to go forward and don't want to do an extension.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote: It won't work. the shackles will invert if you use anything like a sensible shackle length. If you want to move the diff forward then you still have to move the shock mounts and the bumpstops which is plenty of work. Just redrill your spring pads with front springs if you want the diff to go forward and don't want to do an extension.
Steve.

Thats the info I was after thanks champ.

prob not a bad move if ya still need to get at rego'd as I think ruf needs an engineers cert

Yes it does, but it can be done if you talk it through carefully with the engineer. A car I have been involved with for a friend of Greg's has been certed with an extension, inboarded springs (in to narrow track width) and vitara power steer all built into the extension.

The engineer wanted the extension made ridiculously strong, (Theoretically doubling plated with 3mm material up to 450mm each side of of the cut .... we did as much as we could) but at he end of the day, he passed it so it is sweet.

Having saind that though, I have seen cars RWC'ed RUF with an extension and it was never picked up, so if it was done neatly, and not with 1m long shocks etc I reckon it should be fine. It is very fabrication heavy though, so for people not up to pulling the front of the car apart and welding/fabbing it all up, the redrill/longer shackle idea is not a bad compromise.

Still misses some of the major advantages though.

Steve.

who does bolt on ruf?

RRO in US do one, I do have a set of these that have been home made from the rear thing. let me know if u want to copy them.

i have done a different approach to RUF on my 2 zooks and they worked well,no extension but could be better. (would be hard to pick mine, the rear mount was moved back 2" to suit rear springs, getting custom ones for the new zook, bit longer and offset centre pin.)

as above but does not add an extension.

Nic

At the pure risk of being a dunce head!

What is main advantage of RUF???

Wheel travel??

At the pure risk of being a dunce head!

What is main advantage of RUF???

Wheel travel??

short answer is YES

some photos and some dimenions would be nice. does it efect ur steering heaps moving forward?

Remydog05 wrote:At the pure risk of being a dunce head!

What is main advantage of RUF???

Wheel travel??

There are a number of advantages, this assumes you are doing it with an extension to get the axle as far forward as the springs allow - 40mm:

Rear springs allow about 4"/100mm more droop, with the appropriate shocks and mounts, which is a lot.

The front axle comes forward 40mm, clearing much larger tyres at the firewall. a 2" body lift and RUF will clear a 34" swamper at the firewall with no cutting/hammering at all.

The car now has a different point of balance and is much less likely to pick front wheels up when climbing. This is partially the effect of the extra droop but also the centre of gravity is now closer to the front of the car, aiding climbing. The front end flexes very hard.

The car rides better. The longer springs have a slower resonant frequency (they bounce slower) so the car has a less choppy ride.

Steve.

Just wondering about standard rear springs.

Do they equal 2" lifted front ?

Just trying to work out the best way to start.

Cheers

how do u stop it steering like a pig after doing a ruf?

I got my ruf done at overkill not very expensive and got shock hoops at the same time to run longer shocks. They used old standard rears minus overload leaf. When I got it back I replaced the rear springs with ome dakar 40mm lift springs and it made it sit level. May have been the way mine was done but yes it did lift the front near 2".
Nik

Cheers mate at least i know where to start know.

Nick

jonamaphone1 wrote:how do u stop it steering like a pig after doing a ruf?

In what way? RUF can take some caster out of the front end, caster wedges from Pedders can cure this. What is your shackle length?

Steve.

does anyone have photo or diagram of the bolt on kit?

tazzazuk wrote:does anyone have photo or diagram of the bolt on kit?

Nope

http://www.izook.com/reviews/rrftor/rrrftor.htm

with the kit do u need to still re drill the back hole? and i gues u need to move the shock mount to farward to? once it is all done is hard to get it steering rite again?

tazzazuk wrote:with the kit do u need to still re drill the back hole? and i gues u need to move the shock mount to farward to? once it is all done is hard to get it steering rite again?

pm'd

check out my buildup i know its got a chassis extension but i found it to be easy to do it this way

http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopi ... sc&start=0

Just redrill the rear perch and run some ext. shackles. The WB extension you get out of a chassis extension is shit all and means moving shocks and bumpstops, aswell as a mod that is not easily reversed.
I have just redrilled the perch, no body lift, 31's, stock rears in the front with home job shackles... cost you $10 and half an hour. And I can get a 31 beneath door sill.

waxhead.. wrote:Just redrill the rear perch and run some ext. shackles. The WB extension you get out of a chassis extension is shit all and means moving shocks and bumpstops, aswell as a mod that is not easily reversed.
I have just redrilled the perch, no body lift, 31's, stock rears in the front with home job shackles... cost you $10 and half an hour. And I can get a 31 beneath door sill.

How tight is ur brake line in that pic?? Looks like a limiter

yeh we forgot to add if you do a RUF you will need to extend brakelines. Get new ones made as they are alot better than sourcing some from another car (ie.swift)

I have extended brake lines which are held out of the way by elastic rope, which pulls them out of the way as to not come between the bump stop and housing on compression, but also allow for good droop, they do not limit my flex.