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Rear disc setup for WT

Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:25 pm
by nicbeer
Hey,

I have searched but not found anything on this topic.

How have people setup their rear brakes with disc on a WT sierra as there is a single line going to back.

I was thinking of running like std with main line going to DS and then single hardline going to PS with bleeder only on the PS side.

Is this ok to do it this way.

Also, i have brackets that are the same as spidertrax ones with separate plate and caliper mount. can u go back to drums if u need to (rego etc) even thou u cut the drum backing plate off? or cut a slot to it can be reused.

cheers

Nic

Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:55 pm
by Bad JuJu
Just put a T for the rear lines where the flexible line comes down onto the dif housing , and have some new lines made up.
Keep the old lines for if you have to go back to drums.
The spidertrax caliper mounts don't use any part of the backing plate, they attach direct to the axle housing.

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:29 am
by nicbeer
Yeh i knew about the backing plate thing, thats why i was thinking about cutting a slot in plate to remove it.

T - so where flexible line comes down then run hard or soft lines to each caliper?

i am guessing this will then leave me with a bleeder on each caliper.

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:53 am
by Red_Zook
soft lines ol boy
viabrations etc.
proberbly a 1mtr hard line then a soft on pasingers side :cool:

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:00 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
Here is some pics of my setup on the rear

Goes soft line from chassis to a T piece, then solid lines close up too Calipers then a soft line allows for getting the caliper off easyer.

Hope these help..?
Image

Image

Image

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:53 pm
by Bad JuJu
Onya Mudpig,
Thats the way to do it!!

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:07 pm
by nicbeer
Sweet, looks super

Do you have a brake proportion valve in there at all?

Nic

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:14 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
No, though i can confirm braking is so much better with rear disk setup and make sure you change your pads when they get low because the tend too fall out.

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:58 pm
by nicbeer
ok. kewl.

Brake bias front to rear is i guess ok. not too much rear brake?

Nic

Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:01 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
If you think you have more rear brake bias get out the angle grinder and put a groove across the brake pad. I recently just put new pads on the rear and the front are about half used, I think it actually made the braking feel more equal with the front too the back (this is without grinding the break pads), no more nose dive coming up too traffic lights and the back doesnt come out if I lock it up on a dirt road.


This may all vary too the brand of brake pads you use as well and if you start of with brand new pads on the rear and old badly worn brake pads on the front obviously it will feel like you have a rear brake bias so keep that in mind...

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:45 pm
by nicbeer
Hey, Mudpig.

Howd u go with the pics.

thx

nic

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 1:52 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
Here they are sorry I was a bit longer than thought, the Diff rebuild including bearings and seal cost me just over $500 dollars.

This is your axle housing for those that might not know, anyway your new Caliper brackets bolt up to this.
Note your axle and wheel bearings would be installed first.
Image


This is how much roughly your wheel bearing sits out and your bracket will bolt over this keeping it captured, in the case of doing this install you wouldnt have to pull out your axles for any reason unless you are looking at doing the axle bearings and seal.
Image

And I did it this time the cheats way I didnt unbolt the caliper from the bracket to do my wheel bearings. once the disc is on slide this over the bearings to keep them captured you will know which side too use as it has been machined out too allow for the wheel bearing that sticks out slightly.
Image

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 1:56 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
Oh and here is my Shiny new rebuild and Ezy locked Diff though Im not too sure about the amount of backlash it has I will see how I go.

The reason I had too pull the axles out.
Image

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 2:09 pm
by nicbeer
Sweet. cheers for the pics, re assured my brain on the spacer bit.

thought they may be a metal bit in there as well (cut down backing plate, but nope. looks good and easy.

Time to start work on this weekend.

Nic

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 8:38 pm
by Bad JuJu
Bad JuJu wrote:The spidertrax caliper mounts don't use any part of the backing plate, they attach direct to the axle housing.
Did I say that :armsup:

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 8:56 pm
by Nev
This thread is really good with the pics...should be added to bible!

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:48 pm
by built4thrashing
This thread is really good with the pics...should be added to bible!
I second that as im gonna doit too but with a kit i've made myself.