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GQ 6 inch lift

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:19 pm
by killer_garden_gnome
can anyone tel me any mods other than the obviuous ones i need for a 6 inch lift in a wagon eq. lengthen draglink, longer lower arms

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:28 pm
by Z()LTAN
- dropped radius ams
- heavy duty upper and lower rear trailing arms
- front and rear adjustable panhard bars
- brake extension
- proportioning valve adjustment
- rear sway bar disconnects
- Decent return to center steering dampener.

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:32 pm
by scorched
mod front crossmember for clearance and flip rear shaft

We really need to put a tutorial in the bible. :idea:

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:36 pm
by Z()LTAN
ah yes ull need to do this too
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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:17 pm
by killer_garden_gnome
didnt realise that much was involved, how legal is moding the crossmember? and wat did u do to the rear member? cut and re plate it too?

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:32 pm
by Z()LTAN
dont know of the legality's, i go on the belief that if it looks standard, and you havnt de-rated the strength of it, your ok

Front cross member was cut out to allow the front drive shaft uni to clear the member. Then plated with 8mm steel and fully welded

Rear was heated with a oxy 4 burner for a while till cherry red, then smacked with a mallet to flatten the top, you dont need much, not even an inch.
Word of advise, put a stand under the center of the cross member so it dosnt bend the whole thing down, only dents it.

The drive shaft was turned around also, so the skinny (splined) end is at the transfer case end.

Re: GQ 6 inch lift

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:56 pm
by dazzsbuggy
killer_garden_gnome wrote:can anyone tel me any mods other than the obviuous ones i need for a 6 inch lift in a wagon eq. lengthen draglink, longer lower arms
hi mate donot do the 6inc i did and boys from dot put my truck off the road 2inc is the limit mate

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 9:36 pm
by RN
Z()LTAN wrote:- dropped radius ams
- heavy duty upper and lower rear trailing arms
- front and rear adjustable panhard bars
- brake extension
- proportioning valve adjustment
- rear sway bar disconnects
- Decent return to center steering dampener.
and don't ever go to Campbelltown :shock:

but if you do be prepared to swerve at any time. :D

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 9:57 pm
by killer_garden_gnome
ive had cops pull me over in my shorty plenty of times its got 5 inch and 35's ive never once had anyone say anything about lift or tyres, must just be those few up on the high horses. i reckon i have seen close to 10 local gq's here and they monster my shorty so how can they get away with it?? is there somewhere that says 2 inch is maximum, i mean ive heard plenty of arguments about bump stop heights and crap like that but ive never seen written evidence of 2 inch max.

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:26 pm
by bogged
killer_garden_gnome wrote:i mean ive heard plenty of arguments about bump stop heights and crap like that but ive never seen written evidence of 2 inch max.
wqait till your up for vehicular manslaughter if you kill someone, Im pretty sure the prosecuter will show you happily.

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:28 pm
by badger
why the hell do you need to mod the round cross member? if you turn the tail shaft round it will never ever hit. and the box cross member, dont do it like that it stands out like dogs balls.



things u need are:
extended brake lines + breathers
longer rear lower arms
castor correction of your choice (castor plates, drop box, drop arms etc)
turn tail shaft round
mildly hammer gearbox cross member hump down.
adjustable panhards
longer sway bar links if thats your thing

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:18 am
by killer_garden_gnome
pretty sure if im up for vehicular man slaughter they gunna be dead lift or no lift.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:07 am
by rover1
badger wrote:why the hell do you need to mod the round cross member? if you turn the tail shaft round it will never ever hit. and the box cross member, dont do it like that it stands out like dogs balls.


my front and rear shaft used to hit, i fixed the front and the rear only hit when both back wheels are of the ground. i made my front look half factory by welded a pipe into the part where it hits to give it a rounded look, not that it matters, nobody see's it anyway

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:29 am
by Z()LTAN
badger wrote:why the hell do you need to mod the round cross member? if you turn the tail shaft round it will never ever hit. and the box cross member, dont do it like that it stands out like dogs balls.



things u need are:
extended brake lines + breathers
longer rear lower arms
castor correction of your choice (castor plates, drop box, drop arms etc)
turn tail shaft round
mildly hammer gearbox cross member hump down.
adjustable panhards
longer sway bar links if thats your thing

Obviously you know fuck all about lifting gqs....

Oh and id love to see your work numb nuts
Ive found that this way looks perfectly standard as it just looks normal from underneath.
Ive had the car scruiteneered and he said it was a great way of doing it...
Nothing but the best for this monster
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:31 am
by dirtyGQ
what do you need 6 inches for? i think 4-5 is the perfect lift .....6 is too unstable ...i am about to do a 4-5 with drop arms the lot . will post pics BTW that is just my opinion .i have seen some big lifts that were useless on the hill climbs.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:43 am
by Z()LTAN
whats 1" more dirty? means nothing for centre of gravity issues.

You can have a crazy car, but if you cant wield it, then it wont go places others can easily.

With this car and 6" coils + 3" body and 4" tray and 35s we are still scrubbing guards

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:58 am
by dirtyGQ
faaaaarout :cool:

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:14 pm
by nastytroll
I agree with Z()LTAN anyone in south east qld if they have any doubt about big lift stability shood come to a tough tracks comp or watch a winch challange or even superior all terrain challenge, when i cut my front crossmember i cut it on an angle not verticle n it looks factory n you need to cut pipe x member if running the rite lenth shochs cos the slip joint hits, the polished rings a dead givaway
When are some of the so called outer limits suspension experts goin to tell the countrys leading competitors that there vehicles are to high n unstable Ive never seen the critics of big lifts place in the top ten in OBC, XWC, QWC, TTC or the likes so put your money where your mouth is

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:17 pm
by Z()LTAN
well said troll

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:24 pm
by dirtyGQ
well do i need to do it with the 4 to 5 inch lift(cut crossmember ) BTW i have decided to go with king springs and use 2dextreme arms.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:39 pm
by Z()LTAN
if it 4 or 5?

You rlly need to know this, coz a tuffdog 4" is the same as a 5" anything else... they all sit differently on different cars, the Inch raing is just a guide.

You can do it, and then see if it needs doing. Good chance that it will though.

Its not hard, you could get a boilermaker to do it in a few mins for next to feck all $$$$$$

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:41 pm
by dirtyGQ
my mate is a panel beater and awesome welder but how do you know if it needs doing ....will it hit ?

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:46 pm
by nastytroll
dirtyGQ Front x member can hit with 3"+ lifts depends on front shock lenths n coil rate combo's my girls old 4" in gq wagon did, 2DXTREME arms are exelent that is all I fit to any truck I prep these days, never had any brake yet n they've been everywhere, OBC, NZWC ect

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:48 pm
by dirtyGQ
that is great to hear ,i have seen a lot of 2dextreme gear getting around and it seems really high quality

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:49 pm
by Z()LTAN
well be lifted the back of the car up with a forklift to see, you may think its a bit of an unrealistic way of doing it but i asure you, if we hadnt have done it, we would have surly hit it.

FLYING GQS!

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:54 pm
by dirtyGQ
i may as well get 6 inch springs and hope they sag to 5 it is hard to get the desired size lift .the last lift i was hoping for was 4 inch and ended up with 3 ,so now i want at least 4 1/2 -5 inch.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:13 pm
by Z()LTAN
thats the spirit!

Bigger is always better MUAHAHAH!

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:41 pm
by dirtyGQ
lol hopefully it won't be my daily driver anymore as i just got a 84 rodeo for $600 and quite and good little ute too.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:52 pm
by killer_garden_gnome
yeh i was actually gettin the 6 inch due to the fact that i use my car a lot for towing camping and goin nuts on the weekend and i dont know anyone who uses their rig that can say their coils havent sagged from use thanks for the replies been helpful

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 6:50 pm
by badger
Z()LTAN mate i dont profess to be a pro or to have the greates flex or best patrol on this forum or anywhere else but mate the comment u said before
about loving to see my work and calling me a numb nuts only proves to people a few things about you
i did not make any personal comments about you nor your truck is just simply said that the way you did that stands out.
and as prevoiusly said if you cut it on an angle or use tube it works perfectly fine and doesnt look liuke a butcher attacked your truck when transport pulls you up
since i own a 7 inch lifted gq and almost every one of the guys i wheel with has a truck the same size that we as a group have built id think i have a fair idea about lifting a gq
any ways each to there own

im not gunna argue as you are by far superior to me because you can call me a numb nuts over the net an knock my fab work before ever even seeing my car or others i have worked on