Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The CDL light doesnt come on in my 96 80 series. Actually i havent even worked out where in the dash it should be yet. Is there a common problem with this in the Updated dash? I havent had a look yet but thought i would ask incase its a common fault in these. The CDL works there is just no light to indicate its locked.

Sounds as if the globe is blown.
Mine lights up in the dash.
Can go and check where it is if you like.

Toy80Diesel wrote:Sounds as if the globe is blown.
Mine lights up in the dash.
Can go and check where it is if you like.

Yeah im hoping thats all it is.

RUFF wrote:

Toy80Diesel wrote:Sounds as if the globe is blown.
Mine lights up in the dash.
Can go and check where it is if you like.

Yeah im hoping thats all it is.

Do you hear it engage? With the engine off, but ignition on position, press the CDL button, you should hear it click in under the car. Might need someone under the car listening out for it.

You should try pulling the CDL indicator plug off the transfer case and bridge it with a piece of wire. When you turn on ignition, the light should then come on. If it does, then its likely the indicator switch is buggered, if it doesnt, then its likely to be the globe in the dash.

My mates one did the same and it was just the wiring harness had come off the transfer.

The plug has two wires in it and is located on the drivers side of the transfer case towards the engine.

I was of the understanding too that unless you got auto front hubs it doesn't need CDL?

bj on roids wrote:I was of the understanding too that unless you got auto front hubs it doesn't need CDL?

Only in Low range. In high range you need the Switch. It automaticaly locks the diff when you select Low range though.

Toy80Diesel wrote:

RUFF wrote:

Toy80Diesel wrote:Sounds as if the globe is blown.
Mine lights up in the dash.
Can go and check where it is if you like.

Yeah im hoping thats all it is.

Do you hear it engage? With the engine off, but ignition on position, press the CDL button, you should hear it click in under the car. Might need someone under the car listening out for it.

Yeah as i said it engaes the Centre Diff Lock but i just get no indicator light to say its on. Still havent hadf a chance to have a look. Wont have the car for a week or so as of Wed so will have a look when i get it home.

carts wrote:You should try pulling the CDL indicator plug off the transfer case and bridge it with a piece of wire. When you turn on ignition, the light should then come on. If it does, then its likely the indicator switch is buggered, if it doesnt, then its likely to be the globe in the dash.

My mates one did the same and it was just the wiring harness had come off the transfer.

The plug has two wires in it and is located on the drivers side of the transfer case towards the engine.

Thanks Carts i will try that before pulling the dash out. Although i need to pull the entire dash out anyway to remove the rats nest that is inside the Air Vents

I bought this vehicle at Auction and its been parked up for almost 2 years since the finance company re-poed it and a damn rat made a home inside it . I dont think it has got at any of the wiring though. But will know soon enough.

The light has never worked on mine. I've only driven with it on once or twice at slow speeds until i figured out why the steering was so heavy Since the part time kit went in i havent had that problem...

RV80 wrote:The light has never worked on mine. I've only driven with it on once or twice at slow speeds until i figured out why the steering was so heavy Since the part time kit went in i havent had that problem...

Was the part time kit really worth the effort? Has it improved economy a great deal since fitting it? I actually like the way a constant 4wd drives so would only look at doing this if it gave a decent increase in economy.

I dont think its worth it... It saves a bit of wear on the driveline and thats about it. Your welcome to come and have a drive of it to help decide... But if i was towing a car trailer, boat etc i'd prefer it to be constant 4wd.

RV80 wrote:I dont think its worth it... It saves a bit of wear on the driveline and thats about it. Your welcome to come and have a drive of it to help decide... But if i was towing a car trailer, boat etc i'd prefer it to be constant 4wd.

Yeah this is what i expected. The drive line wear is tolerable. It appears this one has just had the drive flanges replaced and the CVs dont click at all. Actually its a realy tight vehicle to drive. Odometer says 299,000 but you wouldnt be able to tell by looking at any of the drive line. Oils all look new and the engine doesnt have an oil leak on it or an ounce of Blow By. Its a little rough in the body though. Looks like its been a soccer mums car.

RUFF wrote:Yeah this is what i expected. The drive line wear is tolerable. It appears this one has just had the drive flanges replaced and the CVs dont click at all. Actually its a realy tight vehicle to drive. Odometer says 299,000 but you wouldnt be able to tell by looking at any of the drive line. Oils all look new and the engine doesnt have an oil leak on it or an ounce of Blow By. Its a little rough in the body though. Looks like its been a soccer mums car.

Good stuff.. Want a cheap lift for it

Nope unless its coil spacers not interested. Cant stand after market coils and cannot understand why anyone would ever use a stiffer rate coil unless needing it to carry extra weight.

RUFF wrote:

bj on roids wrote:I was of the understanding too that unless you got auto front hubs it doesn't need CDL?

Only in Low range. In high range you need the Switch. It automaticaly locks the diff when you select Low range though.

yeah yeah thats standard in the GXL..

do you have selectable front hubs? If not then it sounds broken, on my 100 series solid axle it was on the bottom left of the dash.

bj on roids wrote:

RUFF wrote:

bj on roids wrote:I was of the understanding too that unless you got auto front hubs it doesn't need CDL?

Only in Low range. In high range you need the Switch. It automaticaly locks the diff when you select Low range though.

yeah yeah thats standard in the GXL..

do you have selectable front hubs? If not then it sounds broken, on my 100 series solid axle it was on the bottom left of the dash.

No FWH. What sounds Broken?

When you turn the key, before you start the motor, it should come on, if it dont, you have a bukb problem, if it does, you have a switch or wiring problem, which is located above the front driveshaft on the transfer. Most probably mud, or a bad switch
Andrew

RUFF wrote:Nope unless its coil spacers not interested. Cant stand after market coils and cannot understand why anyone would ever use a stiffer rate coil unless needing it to carry extra weight.

Ruff
You will find that when you hit a big bump with std springs, the bumpstop contacts and you get a jolt....the higher/stiffer spring controls better on rough roads, and around corners, maybe a std set of early 80 coils which were 1 inch higher than later ones, or a set of 100 series rfs springs would be a good compromise, but most 80 owners say the suspension was the best value mod they have done....
Andrew

dow50r wrote:When you turn the key, before you start the motor, it should come on, if it dont, you have a bukb problem, if it does, you have a switch or wiring problem, which is located above the front driveshaft on the transfer. Most probably mud, or a bad switch
Andrew

Yeah ok it doesnt come on when i turn on the ignition. So i will check the globe. Also while were on lights what is the light on the RH side that comes on. It sort of looks like a glow plug light or something. Strange orange symbol with an arrow and 2 cloud looking things beside it???

Gday
Now youve got me....mine has airbag warning that looks like that... but yours wouldnt have SRS....do u have the instrument cluster out already???
U better get a few globes first....then you can put them in the front and rear difflock positions too
I have a few spares if Toyota make you faint./...

dow50r wrote:Gday
Now youve got me....mine has airbag warning that looks like that... but yours wouldnt have SRS....do u have the instrument cluster out already???
U better get a few globes first....then you can put them in the front and rear difflock positions too
I have a few spares if Toyota make you faint./...

My fathers 91 3fe one also has the same light. The globes wpould only be the common 1/4 twist Black plastic bodied ones wouldnt they? Tiny little ones?

No i dont have the cluster out yet. Wont get a chance for aqt least a week. This light is right over on the RH side of the cluster at the bottom. Looks like it has something to do with heating?

RUFF wrote:

dow50r wrote:Gday
Now youve got me....mine has airbag warning that looks like that... but yours wouldnt have SRS....do u have the instrument cluster out already???
U better get a few globes first....then you can put them in the front and rear difflock positions too
I have a few spares if Toyota make you faint./...

My fathers 91 3fe one also has the same light. The globes wpould only be the common 1/4 twist Black plastic bodied ones wouldnt they? Tiny little ones?

No i dont have the cluster out yet. Wont get a chance for aqt least a week. This light is right over on the RH side of the cluster at the bottom. Looks like it has something to do with heating?

Wouldnt it say in the vehicles manuals?

all my hj60 lights are listed in my manual.

The orange light you speak of is the blocked air filter warning light. It will come on whilst on red's.

My CDL light doesnt come on with ignition, yet works fine when the CDL is locked.

Lights that come on at ignition for mine are the ABS, AT/P, low oil pressure, air filter blocked, brake and low oil warning light and engine management light.

Your second light problem sounds like what carts says.

My 100 did the same thing when I got it,replaced the air cleaner and it still did it.Posted on a 100 seriers web site and they suggested that I check the hoses from the sensors.

If your motor is similiar to mine you`ll have 2 little black hoses 1 connect on the piupe between the inlet manifold and top of the cleaner box and the 2nd connects on the side of the cleaner box. No problems since I refitted these.

revin wrote:Your second light problem sounds like what carts says.

My 100 did the same thing when I got it,replaced the air cleaner and it still did it.Posted on a 100 seriers web site and they suggested that I check the hoses from the sensors.

If your motor is similiar to mine you`ll have 2 little black hoses 1 connect on the piupe between the inlet manifold and top of the cleaner box and the 2nd connects on the side of the cleaner box. No problems since I refitted these.

Thanks. The second Light Problem wasnt a problem i was curious what it was thats all. It doesnt stay on only comes on with Reds.

Thanks Carts that is exactly what it would be now you said that.

Shadow wrote: Wouldnt it say in the vehicles manuals?

all my hj60 lights are listed in my manual.

I bought the car at Auction. It never came with Manual's.

Ok ive driven it about 30ks now. How does the Sub Tank System work? I filled both tanks but i press the sub tank button and the light on the switch comes on for a couple of seconds then switches off again. Does the Sub tank pump back to the main tank but will obviously only do this till the main tank is full?

RUFF wrote:Ok ive driven it about 30ks now. How does the Sub Tank System work? I filled both tanks but i press the sub tank button and the light on the switch comes on for a couple of seconds then switches off again. Does the Sub tank pump back to the main tank but will obviously only do this till the main tank is full?

That is how I understand it.

The petrols work the opposite. (or so ive been told)

Shadow wrote:

RUFF wrote:Ok ive driven it about 30ks now. How does the Sub Tank System work? I filled both tanks but i press the sub tank button and the light on the switch comes on for a couple of seconds then switches off again. Does the Sub tank pump back to the main tank but will obviously only do this till the main tank is full?

That is how I understand it.

The petrols work the opposite. (or so ive been told)

The petrols pump from the sub to the main tank, and diesels take the fuel from the selected tank directly.