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long slip front tailshaft...Where do u get em done??
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 7:40 pm
by zerosin
Ok So other than Gibsons and hardy spicer in the Newcastle area, who know who else can make em up from Newey to Sydney?? Lookin for the best price for the front of me lux
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:09 pm
by M&M Custom Engineerin
We make long travel slip joints.
PM me or give us a call on the number in my sig
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:26 pm
by 83 lux
cheap opioin
DRIVE SHAFTED SPACER
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:30 pm
by POS
83 lux wrote:cheap opioin
DRIVE SHAFTED SPACER
Doesn't Do Jack SH!T!!!!!!
All a spacer is good for is when you move the diff forward!!!
If you have heaps of down travel and even with a spacer it will still seperate!!!!!
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 9:00 pm
by beebee
POS wrote:83 lux wrote:cheap opioin
DRIVE SHAFTED SPACER
Doesn't Do Jack SH!T!!!!!!
All a spacer is good for is when you move the diff forward!!!
If you have heaps of down travel and even with a spacer it will still seperate!!!!!
What he said
I set adjusted the length of my shaft
by putting in a new tube section and I found that if I set it up to have the slip joint almost fully closed at full compression then under full droop, the slip joint would fall apart and male and female sections would be clear of each other by 15mm. On top of that you need extra length for engagement of the splines. Also these measurements were taken with axle horizontal ie not on a ramp where the required slip would be more.
So in conclusion - 83LUX is wrong
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 3:31 pm
by Old Yella
what about a square tube slip joint [hayman reece style]
like POS and BJ's rigs
whats involved in this
Rob
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 4:02 pm
by Wooders
Booty fab
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 4:50 pm
by Guy
Old Yella wrote:what about a square tube slip joint [hayman reece style]
like POS and BJ's rigs
whats involved in this
Rob
How bad do these shake above a crawling speed .. ??
can they be made "tighter" to remove slop or have broze or teflon sliders etc put on it .. (cos i dont wanna spoil the limo like ride of my zuk
)
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 5:13 pm
by bj on roids
you would be surprised, i actually put more time into that initially than its worth, but made the shaft, and filling it with grease takes any play out, i streeted mine for a few hundred kilometres in the front when i blew my rear shaft and couldnt buy another one.....
they are cheap, nasty, strong, and cheap and stuff
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 5:19 pm
by bj on roids
Just a FYI my new rig has round tailshafts, and the front is stock thickness tube, to reduce the rotating mass on the drivetrain components. (trying to gain an edge for competition, but it may not make a difference, we do not know yet.
Although if it snaps, which is quite likely, in fact, I beleive it to be the fuse of the driveline at the moment, being such a thin walled tube.. it will cost any edge it may have given me. It is a risk, that I am taking for the time being..... Maybe an upgrade to thicker walled stuff next?? Unless it holds up to the rigours of outerlimits style driving, and competition abuse.
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 5:32 pm
by Guy
bj on roids wrote:they are cheap, nasty, strong, and cheap and stuff
Soundslike everything I look for in a women and a vehicle ..
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 10:17 pm
by beebee
I have been using a square front shaft for almost a year now and I can say that they are strong and definately cheap. Yes they do vibrate depending on how much care you take in construction. I used 40mm SHS 4mm wall inside 50mm SHS 4mm wall so you have 2mm play between male and female sections. The better option would have been to use 50mm SHS Extra Heavy wall which is aboiut 4.4 or 4.8mm wall. If the welded seam on the inside of the outer SHS fouls the male section, either grind a depression in the face of the male section to accept the weld or just bang it in with a sledge hammer and it will self clearence fairly soon.
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 10:23 pm
by POS
beebee wrote:I have been using a square front shaft for almost a year now and I can say that they are strong and definately cheap. Yes they do vibrate depending on how much care you take in construction. I used 40mm SHS 4mm wall inside 50mm SHS 4mm wall so you have 2mm play between male and female sections. The better option would have been to use 50mm SHS Extra Heavy wall which is aboiut 4.4 or 4.8mm wall. If the welded seam on the inside of the outer SHS fouls the male section, either grind a depression in the face of the male section to accept the weld or just bang it in with a sledge hammer and it will self clearence fairly soon.
I have the same, however i ran a good sized weld up each DRIVE face. I basically reduces the amount of slop!!!
I have only driven the POS at a max speed of about 50kph and i could not feel any vidration from the front shaft. (mainly due to the fact that the whole rig feels like a paint shaker once it goes above 20kph.
)
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 11:02 pm
by beebee
Mine vibrates the whole truck to a stage where it is undrivable at 40km/h. You can hear it slapping around at walking pace too - makes for some strange looks
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 11:12 pm
by Beastmavster
love_mud wrote:bj on roids wrote:they are cheap, nasty, strong, and cheap and stuff
Soundslike everything I look for in a women and a vehicle ..
So I should I tell Kylie you said that? how much is the bribe worth?