Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Is 1 inch body lift worth it?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Is 1 inch body lift worth it?
i have a 75 series, Just wondering is 1 inch body lift worth it as i have been told that 1 inch body lift requires nothing to be changed ie fan shroud/radiator, transfer gear stick etc. is this true? just after a bit more clearence but didnt really wanna go 2 inch due to the mucking around. any input would be appreciated. also has anyone cut their front guards to allow for tyre clearance? Whats the best way, cut/fold? i dont want to stuff it.
cheers
mick
cheers
mick
I run no B/L and 37" claws on my troopy.
I cut one front guard this morning, but i don't know the best way about it I cut off 25mm, then cut 15mm slots every 5 cm or so (down to ~2cm around corners) and folded the sections back slowly with pliers. Unfortunately this didn't leave a very sharp fold and cracked the paint a little, as well as baing a little ripply between the cuts.. I cut out the inner guard right back to where it mounts onto the upper panel bit, then massaged the rest with a hammer.
I plan on using white plastic card stuff to fill in the gap in the inner guard, and i'll whack some flares on at the same time - should look ok. I really don't know how you would go about it without demolishing the original inner guard.
I flexed up to the bump stop and the tyres cleared, but they will rub on the plastic once it's in there - not a big problem.
I used to run a 34" simex (which is bigger than most 35's) with stock guards. They only rubbed when FULLY flexed (maybe 1/2 a dozen times in 8 months off road). If you have clearance problems on the rear edge of the front guard, move your axel forward.
I cut one front guard this morning, but i don't know the best way about it I cut off 25mm, then cut 15mm slots every 5 cm or so (down to ~2cm around corners) and folded the sections back slowly with pliers. Unfortunately this didn't leave a very sharp fold and cracked the paint a little, as well as baing a little ripply between the cuts.. I cut out the inner guard right back to where it mounts onto the upper panel bit, then massaged the rest with a hammer.
I plan on using white plastic card stuff to fill in the gap in the inner guard, and i'll whack some flares on at the same time - should look ok. I really don't know how you would go about it without demolishing the original inner guard.
I flexed up to the bump stop and the tyres cleared, but they will rub on the plastic once it's in there - not a big problem.
I used to run a 34" simex (which is bigger than most 35's) with stock guards. They only rubbed when FULLY flexed (maybe 1/2 a dozen times in 8 months off road). If you have clearance problems on the rear edge of the front guard, move your axel forward.
Tetanus rolling on 37's
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
rockcrawler31 wrote:hey mate.
i was told that it's pretty damn hard to move our axles forward by more than 15 -20 mm as the steering fouls. your thoughts?
I moved mine forward 25mm without any problems - this gave me enough clearance to run 37x13.5" claws on 15x10" rims on the road. The clamp on the draglink rubs on the tie rod (or vice versa?) but just needs to be twisted 180deg. Otherwise i havn't found any problems.
Tetanus rolling on 37's
My 35 wranglers rub easily on the top of the front guard (75 tray). Still sorting through the process of fixing it but have been extremely busy this summer. 2 inch BL should go a long way to fixing the problem.
Radiator shroud will be piss easy to mod, just redrill a couple of holes to match the new location. The transfer gear stick might not be as easy without the right tools but it shouldnt be too hard to get someone to do it.
Not sure if 1" will do the job but I would go for more having seen how easy mine rubs with 35s.
Radiator shroud will be piss easy to mod, just redrill a couple of holes to match the new location. The transfer gear stick might not be as easy without the right tools but it shouldnt be too hard to get someone to do it.
Not sure if 1" will do the job but I would go for more having seen how easy mine rubs with 35s.
yours wouldnt be the troopy i see parked at kilsyth supermarket would it? white one with 37xhuge claws on itdogbreath_48 wrote:rockcrawler31 wrote:hey mate.
i was told that it's pretty damn hard to move our axles forward by more than 15 -20 mm as the steering fouls. your thoughts?
I moved mine forward 25mm without any problems - this gave me enough clearance to run 37x13.5" claws on 15x10" rims on the road. The clamp on the draglink rubs on the tie rod (or vice versa?) but just needs to be twisted 180deg. Otherwise i havn't found any problems.
cheers
body lift
i run 37s on my cruiser and the tyres only just touch the guards on full spring compression, ive moved the front diff foward 25mm and had to modify the front guards for the tyres
rob
rob
come on move over and let the 75 through
i would rather body lift than cut guards, depends on rim offset too. if you want to run narrow rims you may get away with no bodylift. i had to go out 2in each side (to stop 36 pedes hitting the springs on full lock and rubbing on the chassis on the rear) then up 2in in body to stop the tyres hitting the inside of the guards. used to run 33's no bodylift with no probs.
body lift
spoke to a few more people about it, and i think it will be worth it. plans are 1 inch body lift, move front diff 15 - 25mm. that should do, cutting guards is last option. i run sunrasiers they are the widest offset you can get without going custom. currently have 33 X 10.5 bfg muds, looking at going to 35 bfg, possibly simex et 35x11.5, or maybe simex jt 34x10 as i think simex 34's measure 35 inches anyway??? availability of simex in cairns is possible though i think bfg will be cheaper option. anyway thanks for all replys.
mick
mick
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests