Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys,

asked this in PM, but figured some other people might like to know the answers as well

i got a NH Jtop SWB with a 2" suspension lift, and the 35mm hydro suspension (which im removing and replacing with poly spring spacers if available when i pull the car apart possibly on the weekend), and i am probably also going to be fitting a 2" body lift to make sure my 33s dont rub (they do touch slightly on very hard upward movement).

im concerned about the length of hydraulic lines (clutch, brake) and other such things like handbrake, diff breather etc.

on top of stock, i will be looking at somewhere around 5.5inches over stock at the back and around 5inches at the front, but im not increasing articulation particularly much - im still running standard length shocks afaik - albeit brand new.

any input from peoples (that have done large lifts)?

FFS! Search, NOOB!

Seriously, I didn't have a problem.

At the front, I don't have significant extra travel, I've only changed where the suspension sits within it's normal range. For the body lift, there were a few turns of pipe inside the engine bay - I just pulled the line through the grommet as I jacked up the body.

I don't remember what happened with rear brake lines during the body lift - I did look carefully, and concluded I didn't need to do anything. Same with the clutch line.

For the suspension lift, the rear brake lines run down the trailing arms, so angle doesn't matter. The handbrake cable binds on articulation, but my shocks and bushes are as much of a problem. Worst case, replace the cable with the LWB version.

Just do it!

-Scott- wrote:I don't remember what happened with rear brake lines during the body lift - I did look carefully, and concluded I didn't need to do anything. Same with the clutch line.

Mine weren't a problem. I think they all run along the chassis and then down to the diff. So body lift doesn't affect them.
There is a bracket that holds the fuel filler on to the chassis or something. I took the bolt out and it was fine. I've recently just taken my body lift out. It was too high and scary

-Scott- wrote:FFS! Search, NOOB!

Just do it!

lol i knew u would do that

hehe

u got sum pics side on of your fourbs showing the 2" susp, 2" body and 33s?

thanks for the input so far
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2" suspension+2" Body+33"

2+2+33s=SWEET

2+2+33s

Anybody else noticing a pattern here?

thanks

tuff looking 4wds!

i think i really do need to do it


just curious - can u fit 35s on them with the 2" susp and 2" body?

of course itd kill the gearing, but i was just interested to know if they fitted (not actually doing it myself)


mark

Impossible is nothing
Here is picture with 2" suspension and 3" Bodylift:







I think with a 4" lift (2"+2") and some fender trimming, are 35" no problem

WTF wrote:thanks

tuff looking 4wds!

i think i really do need to do it


just curious - can u fit 35s on them with the 2" susp and 2" body?

of course itd kill the gearing, but i was just interested to know if they fitted (not actually doing it myself)


mark

Search, NOOB!

GrantW had 35s on his NL - there were few posts about it.

Scott, you have a nice looking vehicle there.

Regards, NJ

why everyone go 2+2? i just did 2" for my 33s
might be the factory lift it already has that helps

2+2 looks cooler

went a bit of 4 wheeling lastnight/this morn.. the 2" body lift woulda helped me not be concerned about the mud getting into the car and seeping in at the door seal.... hehe

first water thing i havent made it across.. the damn factory hydro woulda stopped me getting hung up - was a close one, just needed a little more ground clearance..

reversed out no prob tho.. damn toads got fried on my exhaust.. hundereds of the bastards everywhere.

j-top paj wrote:why everyone go 2+2? i just did 2" for my 33s
might be the factory lift it already has that helps

same, thats what iv always said, i dont quite know why everyone needs the body lift....the only way im going to put it in is for a longer fuel tank when we travel round oz. 33"s dont scrub, the JT2s hardly scrubbed and they only did on the front with the bullbar.

dean

I keep getting told that suspension lifts and bigger tyres are going te get me a nice set of fucked CV's.

Do you guys have any problems with your CV's???

iv broken one, open front diff, climbing up a decent track, lots of wheel spin, full lock, 50mm lift, never really had a chance... was to be expected, cost, what, dont remember, about $80 to fix, no big loss.

dean

Mechz wrote:I keep getting told that suspension lifts and bigger tyres are going te get me a nice set of ***** CV's.

Do you guys have any problems with your CV's???

It is definitely an issue with IFS 4wds, but Pajeros appear to be among the best. A 4wd mechanic (with extensive Pajero experience) once told me the Pajero driveshafts are longer than most IFS 4wds, so CV angles aren't as severe for any give lift.

I think a loose nut behind the wheel can kill just about anything - a lot comes down to sensibility. If you want to drive the toughest terrain then you probably shouldn't start with a Pajero.

FWIW, my Paj is for a little bit of weekend fun (hard to find around Adelaide ) and touring. I have complete confidence that my Paj will take me anywhere I want to go (well, fuel capacity not withstanding ) - and I don't carry spare CVs.

2 + 2 + 33s - just do it!

2 inch suspension + 2 inch body on 35x13.5 toyo tires no rubbing at all but i do take off the bumper ends when i go wheeling