Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Are the idler arms on pajeros all the same between models? eg diesel to petrol? nh to nl? Making a stronger one so need imfo if there is a better one available to start with.

Where exactly are you breaking Idler arms

Also

Is this a common problem when running bigger tread (or is it the way you drive )

Have some ProComp XTerrains on order and plan to have the front end "Smicko" before they go on. One set of bushes to go and still waiting on the torsions.

they don't break, they bend the shaft which then results in the steering wheel off to one side when driving straigh and the alignment with too much toe in. Because the car is lifted much higher than standard(in my case with bj spacers) the angle of the tie rod down to the wheel is at about 45° to the connecting rod thingy and when the left wheel comes down after lifting it(paj salute) it pushes upwards and bends the shaft. I've bent 2 now and grantw has bent 3. Maybe its the hard rutty tracks up here in qld. Peter Goodman? who had is gen 1 paj in 4wd monthly a while back had a strengthend idler arm on his, it was a little bit agricultural but looks like it would do the job.

mike.

I've never had a problem with the idler arm or tie rods for that matter (touch wood).
Mike, DougH was having the same problem with his rig, I wonder if it's because of the balljoint flip which he did (but he hasn't got the spacers).
The Gen 1 & 2 idlers are different but I think there were running changes to later 3.5 V6's but nothing dramatic, might pay to have a gander at a later model just to check.
With the front Detroit and swaybar disconnect I decided not to do this mod for fear of extra breakages.

my idler arm shaft is flogged out like a 50 year old hoe
but i have never bent anything
tie rods will bend there stength is when they are horizontel not at 45deg
i wont do a ball joint flip the cvs run at enough of a angle with cranked torsion bars on chopped stops

i know have to replace my lower bump stops to standard because my new tires rub when they flex into the wheel arch

haven't had any probs with cv shaft breakage yet with the bj spacers in. mine is lifted quite high in the front to match the rear because i got a fair bit more lift than expected with the lighter rear end(ie no roof) when it was wound up to match and with chopped bumpstops, i had about 10mm gap and it used to "bang" when the wheels went to full droop. very f**king annoying, so thats the main reason for the spacers. i still to this day haven't measured how much wheel travel there is between standard and mine. one day i will. some day i will do alot of things.

mike.

one of me cvs is clunking away, i think you would have to be doing some really nasty shit to blow a cv

Hey,

I have bending them too. I bend that stupid fawking shaft so hard that I wasnt able to flatten it out with a 100ton press. Pisses me off big time. Enough that I havent really been wheeling the hunk of crap.

I will be looking at getting a stronger setup maybe.

What about longer tierods that are placed further in on a custom center link.

This would reduce the angle.

I have no clue what sort of affect it would have on bumpsteer, or steering in general though.

Atleast if we have the genI setup, it would be cheap to fix.

Shesh you aussies need to check your own freaking posts more often.

ECHO ECHO..... ECHO

what the heck????

any one in here??? hellllooooooooooo

UNfortunately thers only 6 Auzzies who offroad Mitsos and theyve all posted above..

Bazzle

Bazzle, you are a bit out there. There is over a dozen in Brisbane and thats only the ones I know. We nearly all have our front diff locks ordered and cant wait .

G'day Errol really good to see you posting here

To everyone else Errol is an absolute Mitsu guru and has been tinkering with these things for many years, there's not much he doesn't know about these rigs.

Cheers, Frank.

I'll second that about Errol! I met him at the Mits Muster in Brisbane in '97. I drove from Alice Springs, across the Simpson Desert, to get there. Problem was, 1/2 way across the Simpson my transfer case stuck in 4-HI. Lucky 4-HI & not 4-LO!! Anyways, got to the Muster & he fixed me up in 30 minutes. Knew exactly what the problem was.

Thanks again Errol from a Yank!

Charlie

G'day Chazza, long time no hear..............
Have you sold your rig yet ??
Yeah unfortunately I've never met Errol only spoke a few times and some email correspondence.
Sounds like that trip out here left quite an impression (good I hope)

Frank.

Hey Frank,

Do you think you could try and find me a cheap steering box in one of your junk yards? It doesnt have to be in working condition.

I have been looking for some here in the US for you guys, but all the ones I have found so far have been big money.

What do you want Gen 1 or 2 ?? Power or manual steering ??
I'm assuming a Gen 2 power steering box for Kevin's idler arm mod ??
I'll ring around.....................

Frank.

GenII. I didnt think they made them in manual steering. Either would work, manual steering model might work even better. Thank you Frank.

mmm, everytime i get keen to start using the pajero i c these threads and think i should stick to the maverick as it is more reliable. Our/her Pajero is a 3.5 DOHC. Is that a Gen 1,2 or what. Should i worry about bending idler shafts with my car with 265 AT's and ARB locker when it comes out?

Yes ERROL is good, if it is the ERROL i know. Used to be called GOD when he used to race the Pajero. My wife used to b in the Mitsub club. Is looking at joining again now she has the Pajero.

Thanks Guys

No don't worry about bending idler arms.
The guys that have been having trouble have done upper balljoint modifications that evidence points to causing the problem.
It is not a common problem.
There is also evidence that running 35" + tyres on early model Paj's can cause tie rod end breakages (that I can understand).
I have had a 2.5" torsion bar lift at the front for 3 years and my Paj cops a hiding I can tell you. Only now do I have to re-bush my idler arm due to steering slop. I will use one of the Nolathane bushes (about $20) and do it myself then send it for a wheel alignment.
Most of that time I've been running 33x12.5x15 BFG muds.
Yes yours is a Gen 2 model.
Gen 1 is 82-91 (square boxy shape).
Gen 2 is 91-99 larger more rounded shape with super select t/case.
Gen 3 99 on IRS monocoque construction (no chassis).

Bitsamissin wrote: Only now do I have to re-bush my idler arm due to steering slop. I will use one of the Nolathane bushes (about $20) and do it myself then send it for a wheel alignment.

Frank,

Please take pictures when you do this. I looked at my idler arm, and dissasembled them. It didnt look like there was any possible way to rebush the housing. Either I am missing something in the part assembly or you have a different type of arm. Mine is more of an arm assembly.

I owned a 85 shorty pajero an it was modified coil rearer end out v6 wagon v6 front 94 idler arm gusseted bottom an run 36 inch Swampers twin lockers ARB, detroit i never bent any thing an Errol knows me it was the ex Nunda Mitsubishi Race car

if you had a gusseted 94 idler arm that would be why you didn't bend it. If you had an 85 standard idler arm then you may have bent it.

My idler has a small amout of movement it it at the moment. Will look at making a brace for it in the future..

Hey Choofa, got any good detailed pics of the coil conversion ???

Rob

All i did Tritonasuras is pick the rearer bracketry off the v6 chassis an grafted it back on to my chassis the hardest bit was the panard bracket i have herd of people rejioning chassis .Iwill try to find pictures.