Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Now i have come to terms that i wont be selling my F250 diffs. I have decided to stick them under my daily driver -86 110 with a 4bd1T. This wont be a quick conversion (hopefully done by the end of the year).

Diffs are as follows

Front - 4.1 ratio, dana 60 high pinion, open knuckle, 35 spline, vented disk brakes, 8 lug stud pattern, LHS pinion (pasengers). The short side axle is very very short and the long side is very long. approx 8 - 10 inches extra track.

Rear - Ford sterling 10.25 Dana style. 4.1 ratio, 35? spline, Lsd, full floating, 4 inch wide drums, 8 lug stud pattern, Center pinion.

apart from the normal of making up steering arms and welding on brackets to suit suspension setups, the following needs to be done.

- Change front from LHS drop to RHS drop and get custom axles to suit.

- Change from 8 lug to 5 lug rover

- Fit 15 inch wheels over callipers designed for 16 inch minimum.

- Pinion has no flange, it has uni joint directly connected to the pinion, so some sort of custom tail shafts or custom pinion flange needed.

- Triangulate and 4 link the rear as i think the top a frame mount will be too high to work properly.

- Shave both centers to stop them touching on the ground when i get a flat tyre

Now Questions.

How do open knukle type front ends handle constant all wheel drive?

Who is recommended for custom axles (nothing to exotic) outside the US of A? Preferably in sydney somewhere.

Any tips on cutting up an axle tube and welding it back together so it all lines up again? Braces etc?

Andy

andrew e wrote:
Who is recommended for custom axles (nothing to exotic) outside the US of A? Preferably in sydney somewhere.

Any tips on cutting up an axle tube and welding it back together so it all lines up again? Braces etc?

Andy

Keith from Rovertracks can probably sell you custom 1541H (moser) axles cheaper than anyone in OZ.

The best method I have seen for a jig to keep everything straight is to buy a big long steel rod, 2" or so in diameter, that is long enough to fit in one side and out the other - then machine a couple of cups to hold it central in either end. (clear as mud?)

Sounds fantastic...

Suggest you post up on Pirate as they have a lot of experience on these things...

You are not narrowing??? They would be too wide for use in Oz, IMO.

Why not stay with the 8 on 6.5"? Much better selection of rims available.

Why 15"? 16" or larger is much easier and you can then run proper backspacing. What size tyre? 40" would be about right and those sizes are really wallowy on 15" rims.

Some Jeeps run constant 4WD with open knuckles. Should be OK.

Check out Street Machine Mag, there are sure to be some shops in Sydney used to doing this kind of stuff.

red90 wrote: Why not stay with the 8 on 6.5"? Much better selection of rims available.

Why 15"? 16" or larger is much easier and you can then run proper backspacing. What size tyre? 40" would be about right and those sizes are really wallowy on 15" rims.

Some Jeeps run constant 4WD with open knuckles. Should be OK.

It may sound silly, but my rims make my car. Theyre custom 15x10s with about 3 inches of back spacing - heaps of offset. Will stick to 35s as its only a Daily driver/tourer.

by open knuckle i meant open knuckle uni joints, not open knuckle CVs? What are the AWD jeeps?

Andy

ISUZUROVER wrote:The best method I have seen for a jig to keep everything straight is to buy a big long steel rod, 2" or so in diameter, that is long enough to fit in one side and out the other - then machine a couple of cups to hold it central in either end. (clear as mud?)

I think so, you mean get somthing a snug fit and stick it up the axle tube? Its a better idea of what i had.

Andy

Jeeps only use U-joints.

You'll have to narrow. With only 3" backspacing, that will be wider than the Titanic.

red90 wrote:Jeeps only use U-joints.

You'll have to narrow. With only 3" backspacing, that will be wider than the Titanic.

and...........

You won't be able to fit down the trails. There are lots of rigs with full width axles around here and the really can't go anywhere interesting.

90% of the places I went in Australia, the stock Disco would just make it width wise. Maybe your just a poseur .

Have you stuck those under the 110 to see how wide they really are?

Its a tourer, tow car and everyday driver. Tight trail rig or comp special it aint. Thats what my other car is for.

I recently found another Dana 60 front which i was going to put in the back, which would have been easier in some ways due to the correct pinion offset, but engineering 4ws would be a nightmare.

I am hoping the 10 inches extra wheelbase will help with the offset tailshaft, and avoid the nissan rear syndrome.


andy

andrew e wrote:Its a tourer, tow car and everyday driver.

Ummm, then why are you wasting time and money putting these axles in it?????????? All you are doing is adding weight for no purpose.

red90 wrote:

andrew e wrote:Its a tourer, tow car and everyday driver.

Ummm, then why are you wasting time and money putting these axles in it?????????? All you are doing is adding weight for no purpose.

I really have to agree. If you aren't breaking anything on 35's, then why bother???

I guess, also....

Why are you running 35's for that application?

ISUZUROVER wrote:I really have to agree. If you aren't breaking anything on 35's, then why bother???

because i have them laying around and cant sell them, so i might aswell use them. That and I have somthing better laying around for my comp car.

Think of it as a hard way of installing 4.1s.

andy

red90 wrote:Ummm, then why are you wasting time and money putting these axles in it?????????? All you are doing is adding weight for no purpose.

money? hopefullyi can keep the conversion to under 1k. Looking at it, the only thing i need to buy are axles ( 1 would be able to be shortened), Brake master cylinder, brake line adaptors and propshaft flanges.
Under the car at the moment are diffs from a 96 130 with airlockers, so if they are sold, it would cost me less than nothing. The diffs owe me nothing as it is, and time, well, i'm finding it.

Weight isn't always bad, especially down low, and remember this is a tow rig too, the track would help with stability.

Andy

If you were here, I'd tell you to go buy a diesel Suburban, because that is what you seem to want. $1000 would easily get you a good running copy.

I just don't see the reason to change. Change for changes sake.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure I have a L/R 110/Defender coil Sals here with a dana centre. I believe its a dana 60. If i'm right then your rear would be easy. propshaft to yoke I believe is a problem but you can buy rover style yokes for dana.

jackal1 wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure I have a L/R 110/Defender coil Sals here with a dana centre. I believe its a dana 60. If i'm right then your rear would be easy. propshaft to yoke I believe is a problem but you can buy rover style yokes for dana.

fingers crossed a salisbury rear pinion will go on the front dana 60. however the rear is a 10.25 sterling, not a dana 60, so i need some sort of pinion flange conversion, as the splines are larger than a 60.

I picked up the diffs on wednesday and started stripping them. I'm thinking the rear should be made offset too.

On another note i will be at tuff truck with this thing (on rover diffs) so come and say gday.


Andy