Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have a 97 TD auto 80. I added a 2.5"ish OME kit all was well. Then I added 30mm coil spacers. Then it all started.

I have installed toughtdog panhards, brought the wheels back to centre and some 3 degree tough dog caster bushes. I got some good vibes from the front shaft, so I adjusted the caster bushes back to about 2 degree. The vibes are less but the steering not as sharp but OK.

The vibes are still there coming from the front. I actually found the front pumpkin loose! All the bolts where allmost 2 turns off home. Yes they where tight before, the vibes seem to have undone them. This has happened twice now.

So whats better, a double cardin joint front shaft or just put in a part time kit?

I dont want to lower it as I am planning 35's in the future.

Thanks,

Alec

put a part time kit in. have a look at your unis to they might be on there way out

Hey Alec. My mate got shakes in his 80 from a 4" tough dog lift.

Thought it was his RTC, so changed to heavy duty. This just numbed the shakes.
Also found his whole front end was loose, so tightened it up and went sweet. But then came back later and found the front was loose again.
Thought it was his big wide mudzillas so sold them and got less agresive muddies.
He has now done the part time conversion, says that has fixed it.......so far

If I get vibes when I do my lift I'll go for a double cardon, but thats mainly because I have ABS

Gday
part time will cost $550 plus install, if you have ABS, you wont after...a double cardon from a rear lux shaft (extra cab) fits the front output of an 80...or alot easier is to redrill to suit front lux shaft and extend that.

I know of 80 and 105 series owners with 3" lift that cured a vibration (only appeared after the lift) by installing 5-10mm spacers between the transfercase crossmember and the mounting surface. The vibration is allegedly caused by the change in angle of the propshafts.

Check your angles on your flanges. With normal unis (i.e. one uni at each end of shaft), the planges must be parralell to each other, and the uni's phased correctly, or they will vibe, as they are not cancelling out each others acceleration/deceleration phases. If you go with a dc joint, point the pinion at hte drive shaft, and run the DC at the t-case end.
Part time kit would be the easiest option.

Layto....

Yeah the angles at the diff and the transfere are different.
The diff has almost no to stuff all angle. All the angle is at the transfere end.
I might try to space the x-member down first to see how that goes. It worked in the Surf. It would be good to keep the full time 4wd as the missus uses it daily with the kids.

Is it a myth or does that part time actually better your economy?

I bet if I oact the gearbox x-member down I might cure the front, then the rear will start. Any bets?

I had this hassle with mine, and i did frig around with D/C's for a while.. my first one lastd 12months then after that i had nothing but trouble with the next one.. jsut kept stuffing up.. i wasted proly 1 grand on the second shaft with 2 rebuilds only to have it stuff up again, in the end i put the part time kit in and i should of done it long ago. .i would be $500 better off