Outer Limits 4x4 Board

For those povos out there......

I just picked up my new bending die for 32NB pipe and it works awesome! There is no kinking and I can even go a bit further than 90 degrees. And this is on a hydraulic pump up bender.

The die came from Dawn Tools and Vices and cost me $80 for a 32NB one. The only defects that can be seen on the tube are the dints from the rollers. The die is originally pitted on the forming face but I have ground this down smooth to achieve perfect bends.

So there is an economical alternative to the "expensive" benders

sweet sounds good ill keep that in mind 4 my next project...

can u take some pix of the die Dave ??

sorry just edited cause I read your other post and it answered my question!

Don't have a digi but I'll be posting up pics of the finished truck soon......hopefully

That is the same former i used on my hilux to do the cage & tube tray.
They work very well for the $$$ I tried chain lube to try & stop the small dints left by the rollers but made no difference.


A bit of info on the formers.
They may look the same as your cheapy formers, but looks can be deceiving.

"ELLIPTICAL" PROFILE FORMERS
Sizes 20,25, 32 and 40mm formers have elliptical profiles. The pipe sits close to, but not on, the bottom of the former. This gives good side support for extra light gauge pipes.

"CATHEDRAL" PROFILE FORMERS
Sizes 15 and 50mm formers have cathedral profiles. The Cathedral profile is a registered design. The pipe sits on the entry to the former and will move to the bottom when bending starts. The former squeezes the sides of the pipe, allowing lighter gauge pipes to be bent at a tighter radii. The former also supports the pipe throughout the bending process, giving a more aesthetic rounded appearance.


& pic.

Yeah it was Toymad who put me onto the dawn formers and they work VERY WELL! Thanks for that one Gazza

beebee wrote:For those povos out there......

I just picked up my new bending die for 32NB pipe and it works awesome! There is no kinking and I can even go a bit further than 90 degrees. And this is on a hydraulic pump up bender.

The die came from Dawn Tools and Vices and cost me $80 for a 32NB one. The only defects that can be seen on the tube are the dints from the rollers. The die is originally pitted on the forming face but I have ground this down smooth to achieve perfect bends.

So there is an economical alternative to the "expensive" benders

to stop the roller dents just cut a 6 inch long piece of the next size up pipe,cut it in half longways and rest these "pipe cups" [for want of a better word] against the rollers .
the pressure holds them in place and spreads the load and no more dents

my cheap set tends to kink the inside just before it gets to 90 degrees...where do you get the dawn formers from on the gold coast or south brisbane ?

bog the dints before you spray the bar work

http://www.dawntools.com.au/prod04.htm

has specific part numbers from which to order

I've tried the sleve method that you suggest Big Red but the sleve just flattened (crushed) and the piece being bent still dented. What I shall be trying is two pieces of heavy 30x30 or 25x25 angle so that the load is spread. These will also provide a more accurate way of measuring the angle if they protude forward adn stay straight.

Gazzaj wrote:bog the dints before you spray the bar work

Most are not to worried about the dents as in "looks good" but more so the fact that it creates a weaks spot that could when place under load buckle!!!

POS wrote:

Gazzaj wrote:bog the dints before you spray the bar work

Most are not to worried about the dents as in "looks good" but more so the fact that it creates a weaks spot that could when place under load buckle!!!

I'm not!

I use a special patented technique sacrificial welds :finger:

dave bb

i assume these dies have a small cylindrical hole what the ram head sits in??? if yes, can you measure the diametre and depth of this hole? i just want to see if the die will fit my ram. cheers.

beebee wrote:I've tried the sleve method that you suggest Big Red but the sleve just flattened (crushed) and the piece being bent still dented. What I shall be trying is two pieces of heavy 30x30 or 25x25 angle so that the load is spread. These will also provide a more accurate way of measuring the angle if they protude forward adn stay straight.

hmm, bugger, i just used some steam pipe offcuts for the pipe cups and it worked for me.

beebee

answer my q man?

nam

N*A*M wrote:beebee

answer my q man?

nam

I had remembered - just wasn't online. I have since forgotten the measurements.......I'll put them up before the night's end

NAM - the measurements are 34.6 DIA 26 deep at edges and about 31 in the middle of the hole. Kinda shaped like

| |
\_/

FYI.
Complete bending kit with ram and formers - about $1400.00 depending on the deal you get.
The item is quality however.

Dave , Hows it goin where's the pics of the tray?

It's goin pretty good. When I said that I'd be putting up progress pics, I forgot one thing - I don't have a digital camera

If Punchy drops round then maybe you'll get some pics

BTT

where can we get these dies in south brissy???

do you have blackwoods up there? they carry all dawn gear.

r.e. the dints from the rollers, machine the bottom of them out a bit, so they are closer to the diameter of the tube, and they dont dint anymore. I am pretty hopeless on a lathe, but could still manage a good enough job to stop them dinting..

$80 for the pipebender and all the gear? or $80 for the dies??

i got quoted $95 rrp for the 32nb die from dawn

When I was at trade school we did sand filled pipe bending with the oxy, no dies required at all. Every time this topic comes up, I wander if anyone else has done this. The bends were very acurate with no kinks, the pipe was still round, and unmarked. This seemed like a good method for someone with an oxy and no bender.

greylux wrote:When I was at trade school we did sand filled pipe bending with the oxy, no dies required at all. Every time this topic comes up, I wander if anyone else has done this. The bends were very acurate with no kinks, the pipe was still round, and unmarked. This seemed like a good method for someone with an oxy and no bender.

This might sound like a silly question but can you please explain how you bend pipe with an oxy and get acurate bend's. I need to build a roll cage and any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank's.

tuff 45 wrote:

greylux wrote:When I was at trade school we did sand filled pipe bending with the oxy, no dies required at all. Every time this topic comes up, I wander if anyone else has done this. The bends were very acurate with no kinks, the pipe was still round, and unmarked. This seemed like a good method for someone with an oxy and no bender.

This might sound like a silly question but can you please explain how you bend pipe with an oxy and get acurate bend's. I need to build a roll cage and any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank's.

Yeah thats the way i have to bend my tube for school aswell.
You basically get completely dry riversand and fill the tube with the sand tightly and heat the tube where u want to bend it, the sand stops the tube from changing shape and helps distribute the heat. Then you just bend the tube to the angle you want and let it cool (obviously). HAving a template or markings on the floor or bench to the required angle makes getting the bend angle pritty easy

crispy wrote:

tuff 45 wrote:

greylux wrote:When I was at trade school we did sand filled pipe bending with the oxy, no dies required at all. Every time this topic comes up, I wander if anyone else has done this. The bends were very acurate with no kinks, the pipe was still round, and unmarked. This seemed like a good method for someone with an oxy and no bender.

This might sound like a silly question but can you please explain how you bend pipe with an oxy and get acurate bend's. I need to build a roll cage and any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank's.

Yeah thats the way i have to bend my tube for school aswell.
You basically get completely dry riversand and fill the tube with the sand tightly and heat the tube where u want to bend it, the sand stops the tube from changing shape and helps distribute the heat. Then you just bend the tube to the angle you want and let it cool (obviously). HAving a template or markings on the floor or bench to the required angle makes getting the bend angle pritty easy

Thank's Crispy. Will give it a go.

It was about ten yeers ago, but the way I remember it was we heated up one end with oxy(very large tip) until red hot, and flatten end then weld over end. Fill pipe with DRY sand and compact as much as possible. Note sand must be super dry or else pipe can explode aparently. Jam paper in end to hold sand in place and compact from end again. It must be firmly packed. Cut a template out of sheet metal in the shape that you want your bend and measure the length of the curve, or if your smart use maths. Transfer this measurment to your pipe where you want your bend and mark it with that welders chalk snuff. Apply plenty of heat uniformly with large tip until whole area between marks is red. Bend keeping heat on and using template until angle is reached. Move on to next bend. We did this for plumbing pipe work and it had to be accurate with several bends. I would recomend finding more info before trying incase i have left out something. Once again, make sure sand is totally dry.

calling beebee, where did ya get yours from?????????

the oxy trick sounds like a LOT of work, and fark you'd go through some gas