Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone know where i can scab up a second hand box or converted LT95

I've spat a rear thrust washer, the one that's next to low gear, i'll put it together again today, but want to chase up a kit

Would of only done a few thousand kays

Could try Len at Rangie wreckers in somerville, he may have one but would probably want top dollar.
I take it yours isn't converted?

If your'e interested
I have one gearbox complte no transfer
one with most gear box complete.
And boxes of gear box stuff.
aand boxes of transfer stuff.
I did the tapered transfer conversion.

swamp wrote:If your'e interested
I have one gearbox complte no transfer
one with most gear box complete.
And boxes of gear box stuff.
aand boxes of transfer stuff.
I did the tapered transfer conversion.

No thanks, I've got plenty of LT95's kicking around, I replaced the broken shim and put it back together today, i'm only aftter a conversion, not alternatives

By the way i don't need a gearbox, as its a C9 auto

6.5 rangie wrote:Could try Len at Rangie wreckers in somerville, he may have one but would probably want top dollar.
I take it yours isn't converted?

Yea i'll give him a bell, Well its obviously not converted

Hi Cloughy,

Swamp may be trying to say that one of his units has the conversion. Also please check your PM's.

cheers, DL

DL wrote:Hi Cloughy,

Swamp may be trying to say that one of his units has the conversion. Also please check your PM's.

cheers, DL

Replied just now

Matt, any luck?
I tried Toorak Tracter today for you, but they only had bits of a conversion.

I twice went through shims a couple of years ago, one cooked up so much it melted the plastic cage on the needle roller bearing. I have since been using synthetic red line oil. Seems to have fixed the problem. I think the normal gear oil cokes up and blocks the lubrication scallops in the shim thus exacibating the problem. A taper roller kit would be good though, whats one worth~ ?

all ways check the oil ways in the inter shaft.when putting one together the other month i found swarf from drilling in these oil hiles.use a good oil and run an additive in it.it all helps

"I twice went through shims a couple of years ago, one cooked up so much it melted the plastic cage on the needle roller bearing. I have since been using synthetic red line oil. Seems to have fixed the problem. I think the normal gear oil cokes up and blocks the lubrication scallops in the shim thus exacibating the problem."

Euan
What sort of synthetic red line oil did you use I thought an LT95 transfer was suppose to use 20-50w engine oil??

It was the light weight red line gear oil. I can't remember what weight, but synthetic gear oil weight is classed so as to reflect it's abilty to resist metal to metal contact relitive to a mineral oil. So a synthetic oil can have the same viscosity number as a really thick mineral gear oil ( and do just as good a job) but be really thin. Therfor soaking up heaps less horse power. Ive been giving this T/X case heaps of shit for a couple of years now and its still very quiet. Redline also make a heavy duty gear oil which is still heaps thinner than any normal oil, I would highly recomend that. This stuff is really expensive but.
Its also really important when in beach sand on a hot day to not be in 1st high with lots of power on for a long time, but 3rd or 4th low. If you are in 3rd or 4th low these intermediate shaft thrust bearing/shims have got heaps less load on them. You can give it shit all day in low as long as your diffs can handle it.

Still haven't found one and i don't think the transfer will last very once i get this blower on

Anyone know of one floating around

Matt, wasn't mopar making one. I need another one myself for this gen3, should have measured my other one up before i put it back in.

Euan
What sort of synthetic red line oil did you use I thought an LT95 transfer was suppose to use 20-50w engine oil??

Correct. Gear oil apparently eats the brass shims in 4 speed transfer cases, hence the reason he kept going through them, I would guess. Interesting that the synthetic oil hasn't done the same thing - must have a different additive.

6.5 rangie wrote:Matt, wasn't mopar making one. I need another one myself for this gen3, should have measured my other one up before i put it back in.

One day

RangingRover wrote:

Euan
What sort of synthetic red line oil did you use I thought an LT95 transfer was suppose to use 20-50w engine oil??

Correct. Gear oil apparently eats the brass shims in 4 speed transfer cases, hence the reason he kept going through them, I would guess. Interesting that the synthetic oil hasn't done the same thing - must have a different additive.

It's GL5 oils that are supposedly evil towards brass.
GL4 should be okay.

I'm running GL5 in my front axle, I think the CV collars are brass so I'll let you know.

cloughy wrote:

6.5 rangie wrote:Matt, wasn't mopar making one. I need another one myself for this gen3, should have measured my other one up before i put it back in.

One day

If someone had the specs on it i will get some made up

6.5 rangie wrote:

cloughy wrote:

6.5 rangie wrote:Matt, wasn't mopar making one. I need another one myself for this gen3, should have measured my other one up before i put it back in.

One day

If someone had the specs on it i will get some made up

I'll be in that, but who has a copy of the blueprints

Could drop the intermediate shaft out of yours when your not driving it and get it machined like for like

cloughy wrote:

6.5 rangie wrote:

cloughy wrote:

6.5 rangie wrote:Matt, wasn't mopar making one. I need another one myself for this gen3, should have measured my other one up before i put it back in.

One day

If someone had the specs on it i will get some made up

I'll be in that, but who has a copy of the blueprints

Could drop the intermediate shaft out of yours when your not driving it and get it machined like for like

Not a stupid idea you know, just can't be f'd doing it, may'be next weekend, got to take it in to get new radiator done thursday.
At least i don't have to drop the box out to do it.
i have a spare LT95 trans case in the shed i want to convert so thats a pretty good idea Matt. Will suss it out over the week.

Atleast if you do it that way, can measure it all up once its done, to make sure its all goodly Let me know a price, may foot the bill and stash a few away

It is phosphor bronze that is affected by some extreme pressure additives in the likes of EP90. Apparently those additives are not usually used these days.

Other bronze alloys, such as leaded bronze or aluminium bronze are not affected. Brass is not a copper alloy (like bronze) and is totally unsuited for bearings in a gear case.

the shaft is the easy thing to make up.a few hours on a manual lathe or 15 mins on a cnc machine.then if needed a quick heat to case harden and a grind to finish.its the gears that going to be the hard part to machine.unless you can scab up a set of original taper roller gears.boring out hardend gears is NO fun at all,been there do that.....

Just a thought.
If you have wear on the thrust faces of the gears, they become too short for the length of the cages.
The cages wear and the swarf is thrown into the drain which goes into the shaft and blocks it.
BUT the starting point of the destruction is a gear train that has become too short. You have to replace the affected gears.
Regards Philip A

Philip A wrote:Just a thought.
If you have wear on the thrust faces of the gears, they become too short for the length of the cages.
The cages wear and the swarf is thrown into the drain which goes into the shaft and blocks it.
BUT the starting point of the destruction is a gear train that has become too short. You have to replace the affected gears.
Regards Philip A

Aggh a little horsepower and an idiot who likes to flog things tends to spit them out, nothing to do with wear I understand exactly what you say, but a standard rover big block isn't quite the same