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What to make body blocks out of
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:43 pm
by Wish I had coils
going to do a body lift what do make them out of
1 teflon Bit hard to get hold of
2 nylon uncle can get from work but said it's a bit softer then teflon
3 aluminum
4 steel Can get 20 2 inch blocks ,made and drilled for $120
bit of help
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 12:01 am
by nastytroll
aluminium or steel is good if you can get 20 blocks for $120 go that way
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 7:14 am
by mcgill4433
my advice would be to avoid the steel blocks, i had them in my shorty for a while, they ended up cracking the body in a number of places. i now use nylon which works well.
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:10 am
by chimpboy
Aluminium gets my vote.
blocks
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:31 am
by MitchellBros4x4
x2 Aluminium, we retail these blocks for $14 each.
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:33 am
by slow
aluminum gets my vote.
1 it is not too hard so it dosent crack the body quite as much
2 it is not too soft \ brittle (have herd of nylon block cracking \ exploding under extreme conditions)
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 3:39 pm
by procompman
i would see what transport department says because i know up here in qld nylon cant be used only alloy or steel i myself would go alloy
Re: What to make body blocks out of
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:20 pm
by bogged
Balsa.
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 5:50 pm
by bowtie landie
Steel or machine grade aluminium won't affect the body provided that the diameter of the blocks is at least as big as the size of the body mounts it sits on, and provided that you use grade 8.8 bolts (or gr 5 imperial) so that they do not stretch over time. Also make sure that you use locking nuts to ensure that they do not loosen over time.
The body should not be flexing, that's what the rubber is for. Hence if fitted correctly and bolted up firmly you will have no problems. We have removed a number of neoprene kits, welded up the cracks in the body, and refitted steel blocks. You could see how the neoprene blocks were starting to crush down and the body distortion and cracks were an exact match to the blocks.
We've performed MANY bodylifts using steel blocks with-out any long term problems - including competition vehicles.
Hope this helps
Peter K.
Re: What to make body blocks out of
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:35 pm
by GASDRX
bogged wrote:Balsa.
How much $?
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:34 pm
by Wish I had coils
Yeah cheers, i was told by 1 guy not to put blocks in, He is the guy that told me where to get 20 steel blocks for $120, he said he ripped big holes in his body, that's why i ask what people thought where better.
P.S (This guy is a bit of a KNOB)
Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:33 am
by cloughy
Just use whatever you can get the cheapest
you won't notice fark all difference between either of then, except steel blocks get surface rust on them
Just make sure to use high tensile bolts
Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 12:55 pm
by Vanne
man, get the kit from ....GasDX(here on outerlimits), $120 (lwb) includes all the bolts + nuts etc...
cheers
Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:40 pm
by tna racing
the blocks mgill sed gets my votes
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:48 pm
by Vulcanised
the black acetal ones are good..... very durable.
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:48 pm
by GASDRX
Patrolden wrote:the black acetal ones are good..... very durable.
I have been using a mix of acetal or nylon for the blocks for while now, harder than nylon and still very durable. I just call them nylon otherwise i would get too many questions regarding it, they look the same are stronger but dearer material to buy.
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:06 pm
by sidewayz
cut down boat trailer rollers.
already have crush washers too
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 8:25 pm
by Wish I had coils
Yeah i like the boat roller idea!!! I priced up some polly urathann (stuffed if i know how to spell it) about the same strength as teflon but with out the sliding abilty which i don't need any way.
Long story short About $50 and $25 for bolts not to bad if you have a lathe at hand
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 12:01 pm
by jungle_surfer
Where'd you get the polyurethane boat rollers for $50? Did they come with crush tubes?
In comparing these different materials, are we all talking about similar dimensions? I'd guess the plastics are around 60mm diameter... on the other hand, I've seen steel 'blocks' cut out of steel pipe that probably would have been about 30 - 40mm in diameter. Are you guys who are advocating steel / aluminium talking about big-diameter rod, with a small (12mm ish) hole bored through, or pipe?
(Yeah, I'm looking for blocks too...)
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 6:39 pm
by GASDRX
Mine are 76mm diameter and would not put any smaller.
Bigger the better remember
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:02 pm
by simcoe
yeah id go the boat rollers as well..
worked well in my old gq.went 40mm
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 8:05 pm
by Wish I had coils
body lift done ages ago
went two inch cost me $75 and had enough material to make another kit took about 2 hours of my time very happy with it
just waiting on my new springs to sit the old girl straight again
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:39 pm
by jungle_surfer
BTW, I've heard some people saying that the plastic blocks aren't legal without the so-called 'crush tubes' in them... does anyone know if this is true?
Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 5:07 pm
by Wish I had coils
thats most likey right, BUT!!!! Who is going to get under your car and have a look. It's pretty hard to tell wether or not the blocks have crush tubes i them any way
Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:16 pm
by jungle_surfer
The counter-argument (assuming it's true that 'crush tubes' are required) is that if you have an accident, your insurance company may not honor your claim...
**shrug**
LIFT BLOCKS
Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:48 pm
by lukes4x4
MMMMMM Nylon !
Alluminium
Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:53 pm
by MD4x4
There is a problem using Alluminium.
It sets up galvanic action with the steel bolts and the Aluminum "grows".
Once this happens you have huge dramas replacing bolts and blocks.
MD