Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Looking at fitting a ram to pull/push the factory freespool lever. What rams have people used (part numbers would be good). I am assuming (without taking it apart yet) that I would only need to make a new cover to support the ram, remove the detent and plumb up the ram. Is this of major benefit? I will not be able to afford a proper drum freespool before OBC. Pics would be great as I am running short of time to mess around designing it!

Thanks all

Bru

Will meet you at OBC!

This is only my opinion, but honestly I wouldn't waste your time, better of powering it out if you need to. You would get far better time gains but setting up a good set of horns for your rope on the bar so you can set up your rope before a stage.

Unless you can afford one of the "real" freespools, then anything else is not really effective.

As a regular winch bitch, I have tried using the freespool once and it was shit, we set up our rope before the stages and power out if we need to.


Likew I said just my experience and take on it .

beretta wrote:Will meet you at OBC!

This is only my opinion, but honestly I wouldn't waste your time, better of powering it out if you need to. You would get far better time gains but setting up a good set of horns for your rope on the bar so you can set up your rope before a stage.

Unless you can afford one of the "real" freespools, then anything else is not really effective.

As a regular winch bitch, I have tried using the freespool once and it was shit, we set up our rope before the stages and power out if we need to.


Likew I said just my experience and take on it .

Totally agree.
Don't waste your time or money
Jonesy

Agree, just setup some good winch horn & navi needs to know how to use them, then before each stage roughly work out how much rope you need & loop it up on them

The onyl disadvantage is when you have a long second winch & you have to power out a large amount of rope all over again.


I noticed this when we did the first engel round, on a few stages the second winches were long so had to power out 40m so that took a while but much easier then trying to turn the gears in the gearbox.


So hold off until you can afford the drum disconnect as i've seen it in action & so worth it!

Cheers
Andrew

thanks fellas. I have set up some decent winch horns, and some hook holders high up above the waterline.

My mate makes the freespools but buying a house has got in the way of that. I am lucky to be going to obc lol

bru21 wrote:thanks fellas. I have set up some decent winch horns, and some hook holders high up above the waterline.

My mate makes the freespools but buying a house has got in the way of that. I am lucky to be going to obc lol

What does he charge for the free spools?

bru21 wrote:thanks fellas. I have set up some decent winch horns, and some hook holders high up above the waterline.

My mate makes the freespools but buying a house has got in the way of that. I am lucky to be going to obc lol

your mate wouldnt be my mate Rogger? would it?

I hear Sheety at MR Sheet Metal in Nambour now does Air freespools for about $1500. Have seen his being used and abused with no problems in winch comps.

MUSS wrote:

bru21 wrote:thanks fellas. I have set up some decent winch horns, and some hook holders high up above the waterline.

My mate makes the freespools but buying a house has got in the way of that. I am lucky to be going to obc lol

your mate wouldnt be my mate Rogger? would it?

yep with one less g. roger.

$1500 sounds bloody expensive,

you can grab a strong cylinder for no more than $300 a valve for $100 and then do a coil and button for less than $50, fittings and hose are cheap

and surely the mechanical mods shouldnt cost $1000

an expensive product that works is better than a cheap one that doesnt/unreliable.......as with everything you buy...........

YankeeDave wrote:$1500 sounds bloody expensive,

you can grab a strong cylinder for no more than $300 a valve for $100 and then do a coil and button for less than $50, fittings and hose are cheap

and surely the mechanical mods shouldnt cost $1000

I thought the same till I looked into it more. Its a shame its not as easy and cheap as it sounds, and its not the kind of adaption you want to fail when winching up a vertical hill.

What about using a truck slave cylinder with a trailer supply valve for operating it? Cheap to buy--just add a return spring..

Nick

i still think it's not that hard. i'm half temped to try it now.

Can do this for the control system:

One short stroke cylinder (single acting, spring extend) This way if there is any failure at least the free spool will not disengage the winch. possibly a 50 bore 20 stroke cylinder, SMC part number CQ250-20S. I havn't check Festo yet, but they will have something similar. This cylinder is only $90.00
pipe it up to a 3/2 solinoid valve which is controlled by a button.

Machine up a mount to hook the cylinder to the stock free spool shaft and you're all set up for far less than $1500. And this would be pretty reliable. I could probably do the whole thing for under $500

YankeeDave wrote:i still think it's not that hard. i'm half temped to try it now.

Can do this for the control system:

One short stroke cylinder (single acting, spring extend) This way if there is any failure at least the free spool will not disengage the winch. possibly a 50 bore 20 stroke cylinder, SMC part number CQ250-20S. I havn't check Festo yet, but they will have something similar. This cylinder is only $90.00
pipe it up to a 3/2 solinoid valve which is controlled by a button.

Machine up a mount to hook the cylinder to the stock free spool shaft and you're all set up for far less than $1500. And this would be pretty reliable. I could probably do the whole thing for under $500

somthing like this?

http://72.34.32.141/~snakerac/product_i ... f38371d704

YankeeDave wrote:i still think it's not that hard. i'm half temped to try it now.

Can do this for the control system:

One short stroke cylinder (single acting, spring extend) This way if there is any failure at least the free spool will not disengage the winch. possibly a 50 bore 20 stroke cylinder, SMC part number CQ250-20S. I havn't check Festo yet, but they will have something similar. This cylinder is only $90.00
pipe it up to a 3/2 solinoid valve which is controlled by a button.

Machine up a mount to hook the cylinder to the stock free spool shaft and you're all set up for far less than $1500. And this would be pretty reliable. I could probably do the whole thing for under $500

I presume you are talking about the warn highmount, and I guess in saying hooking up to the "stock" free spool shaft u mean placing a air ram on the release button the warns come out with? If so they are harder to freespool via this button especially pulling the cable up the hills as your turning the gears as well. The air freespools Sheety and Roger build involve a lot of engineering on the internals of the winch drum so when released you aren't turning the winch gears as well

I don't think you are talking about the same thing you guys. The freespools you can get done for $1,500 are a true drum free spool, not just an air ram that pulls the freespool lever out on a highmount. By disconnecting the freespool lever only, you still have to pull on the drum, and the gearing drag which is what makes it hard work trying to run up a hill, even on freespool. The ones for $1500ish actually allow the drum to totally freespool, it disconnects from the main gear on the end of the drum, this is a lot more involved and $$ than just adding a air ram onto the stock freespool.

Clayton's Racing wrote:

YankeeDave wrote:i still think it's not that hard. i'm half temped to try it now.

Can do this for the control system:

One short stroke cylinder (single acting, spring extend) This way if there is any failure at least the free spool will not disengage the winch. possibly a 50 bore 20 stroke cylinder, SMC part number CQ250-20S. I havn't check Festo yet, but they will have something similar. This cylinder is only $90.00
pipe it up to a 3/2 solinoid valve which is controlled by a button.

Machine up a mount to hook the cylinder to the stock free spool shaft and you're all set up for far less than $1500. And this would be pretty reliable. I could probably do the whole thing for under $500

I presume you are talking about the warn highmount, and I guess in saying hooking up to the "stock" free spool shaft u mean placing a air ram on the release button the warns come out with? If so they are harder to freespool via this button especially pulling the cable up the hills as your turning the gears as well. The air freespools Sheety and Roger build involve a lot of engineering on the internals of the winch drum so when released you aren't turning the winch gears as well

Beat me to saying exactly the same thing!

tuf045 wrote:

YankeeDave wrote:i still think it's not that hard. i'm half temped to try it now.

Can do this for the control system:

One short stroke cylinder (single acting, spring extend) This way if there is any failure at least the free spool will not disengage the winch. possibly a 50 bore 20 stroke cylinder, SMC part number CQ250-20S. I havn't check Festo yet, but they will have something similar. This cylinder is only $90.00
pipe it up to a 3/2 solinoid valve which is controlled by a button.

Machine up a mount to hook the cylinder to the stock free spool shaft and you're all set up for far less than $1500. And this would be pretty reliable. I could probably do the whole thing for under $500

somthing like this?

http://72.34.32.141/~snakerac/product_i ... f38371d704

They're a joke, save yourself some $$ and don't bother.

beretta wrote:I don't think you are talking about the same thing you guys.

Agreed.. There is two diferent conversations going on here!

The Original high mount free spool is crap to start with.
By all means waste your money making the free spool automated but it's been done to death and turns to shit real quick.
Cheers Dan

Bru,
How expensive are the proper free-spools that disconnect the actual drivetrain??

There is a bloke over here who does them for about NZ$1500 if you're interested. Kym Bolton has/had one of his units and I assume its still running ok.

Approx AU$1,500 depending who you speak to.

So prices would probaly work out almost the same by the time you took freight etc into consideration. Probably not worth the effort then, just get it done locally.

thanks for that mate but it looks as if its not worth it. If I had more time I would build one myself, but I am flat out as it is! Also I am weary of spending any further dollars on my winch. I would rather wait and pay the 7K for the gigglepin one when it is finalized. That way you get a winch that is stronger, faster, freespool etc all included for probably less than rooting around with what is essentially and ancient, inadequately rated winch designed for farm fencing lol. Even the warn highmounts load rating of 3500kg is half what is needed in the mud in reality, before you add excess cable, half flat batteries on a long pull etc!

bru21 wrote:Even the warn highmounts load rating of 3500kg is half what is needed in the mud in reality, before you add excess cable, half flat batteries on a long pull etc!

What gearbox are you using Bru? If its the factory GQ manual box, then a factory Nissan PTO winch would be your best (cheapest) bet for hauling through the mud, with your 8274 as your primary winch for tricky rock work etc.

But then you're still talking another NZ$1500 by the time you get the PTO landed in AU and fitted up.

GQ TROL wrote:
But then you're still talking another NZ$1500 by the time you get the PTO landed in AU and fitted up.

Can buy them here off grey imports for $1400 complete.

sounds pretty good. Wonder if I could fit it low down below my other winch? food for thought. Yes I do have the factory gq 5 speed

beretta wrote:

GQ TROL wrote:
But then you're still talking another NZ$1500 by the time you get the PTO landed in AU and fitted up.

Can buy them here off grey imports for $1400 complete.

ive seen a few on ebay go for $600.
Another option is make a "gods winch"=dangerously fast

beretta wrote:Will meet you at OBC!

This is only my opinion, but honestly I wouldn't waste your time, better of powering it out if you need to. You would get far better time gains but setting up a good set of horns for your rope on the bar so you can set up your rope before a stage.

Unless you can afford one of the "real" freespools, then anything else is not really effective.

As a regular winch bitch, I have tried using the freespool once and it was shit, we set up our rope before the stages and power out if we need to.


Likew I said just my experience and take on it .

Hey Paul lay off my system.
It works when the winch is in good condition and has bearings.
But yes I agree no good for comps.

When's H's bucks???

Cheers
Dazza

bru21 wrote:sounds pretty good. Wonder if I could fit it low down below my other winch? food for thought. Yes I do have the factory gq 5 speed

Keep the 8274 up front and mid-mount the PTO behind the cab on passenger's side. Have the winch rope go through the cab inside a length of tube, exiting through the winch bar beside the LH chassis rail.

We find that using a free-spool (air-ram operated or morse-cable) on the PTO helps also.