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89 Pajero suspension mods with 35 inch tyres!
Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 5:48 pm
by eyeballgummy
G'day,
I have a 89 Pajero, full import with a moon roof, LWB 2.5 turbo diesel, safari snorkel, 12000 pound winch, turbo timer, air horns, OME suspension raised 2 inch at the back and torrsion bars up 2 inch at the front. And other stuff. Whew!
What i really want help with is, since i lifted the front and cut the upper bumpstop rubbers, what type of shocky can i put in to accommadate the gap that the upper rubbers are now missing? What i mean is the travel of the OME shock is not reaching the upper bumpstop (travel too short [ie] stroke now absorbed by shocky) when jacking up the front end.
Also, I am going to fit 35 inch tyres, with a 2 inch body lift on 16 inch rims. Will these fit? And if not where will the guard need to be cut to get them in?
Hope these questions can be answered as im still scratching my head, but I will perservere!
Thanks in advance to your replys,
eyeballgummy
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:47 pm
by PajeroSRV
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:01 pm
by eyeballgummy
what happened to the photo's?
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 11:31 am
by PajeroSRV
Forum got moved and I think pics were lost.
I've changed computers since so I don't have em either.
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 6:42 pm
by eyeballgummy
Hi,
yeah i noticed this site has a need of an upgrade.
Tyre problem seems to much crap to fit 35, am going to stay with 33 inch insted.
Found problem with the travel, I missed the uppper rubbers behind the shocks, and now have trimmed them as well. OME is alredy longer travel and working fine.
Had a bit of trouble with the torsion bars though, seems that passanger side is not as hard as drivers side when both done up at same bolt length. Maybe tbars have been put in incorrectly (not in alighnment).
Had radiator cleaned at Natrad (Seaford VIC) today. Best money ever spent. Supposably the Radiator was blocked 80%. The differance is amazing, It still hasnt even come onto minimum driving around town. Am about to do some highway speeds now.
What do you drive?
eyeballgummy
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 6:58 pm
by J Top
If the temp guage is not reaching normal, I would check the thermostat as someone may have removed it to reduce the overheating caused by the blocked rad.
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:42 pm
by eyeballgummy
Hi,
No its not the thermostat, I replaced the waterpump a few weeks ago. $189 at Ripco. Its because its bloody clean! I done some 100 km,s plus speeds and some huge hills, I didnt even see it get past a 1/6. Normal driving doesnt even see it registar on the gauge. Oh its also got Nulon Antifreeze/antiboil mixed at 40% Once again, this is the best money I ever spent!
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:09 am
by Mechz
The thing is you actually want the engine to get to operating temp because if it's lower than that and you start to push it you'll get leaky gaskets because they contract when they cold.
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:55 am
by eyeballgummy
Well I know what you mean, but I just returned from a 800 km trip to Cape Otway for easter, and it didnt miss a beat, or use any water. Going through the hills the highest the gauge got too was about a Quarter. I dont think their is any problem with the lower temp reading. The hoses are still hot (not burning hot) at normal operating temp 1/8 -1/6, so I believe that is its normal operating temp.
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 2:29 pm
by smccask
IMO it is very bad for your motor if you are running temps that do not even register on your gauge! This is why you have a thermostat and not just a radiator, because if you are running teh engine too cold then you will suffer extremely accellerated wear among many other issues.
1. clearances are not correct at the low temp
2. like Mechz says your sealing may fail
3. oil does not reach correct viscosity and affects lubication
either your temp gauge is stuffed or your thermostat is broken/missing. engines should run 85-95degC (check your manual for correct temp thermostat)
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 5:29 pm
by eyeballgummy
Geez, cant anyone say thats great about the temp.
Are you saying without the thermostat all our moters will freeze to death?
Look if it makes you feel better when the thing use to to boil the temp wasnt even in the red, it was at 3/4.
So if we use that equation, yes (maybe the temp gauge is out a quarter), and we add that to what is normal now, it would be at 2/5 of the gauge at max operating temp. (because it doesnt boil over anymore)
I have a Thermometer on my multimeter, next time im out i will measure the temp of the radiator.
Oh here's some advice on anybody wanting non genuine, Gen 1 upper controll arm bushes, You cant get them anymore except through Pedders at $250 a pair. Lowers can be sourced through Repco, as well.
Im in the process of doing all its bushes in the front, all balljoints, and a tie rod.
Also 33 inch tyres will fit gen 1/2 with either 2 inch bodylift or 1.5 minimum susspension lift. This was told to me through mitsubishiforums.com from a guy who has both gen's with 33's.
Problem is powerloss.
eyeballgummy