Hey guys. I checked in the bible and did a search but didn't find exactly what I was after.
I was driving down the road and a rattling noise started, got worse, then eventually resulted in a lot of crunching and the rear wheels locking up. The mechanic informed me that my diff is dead. I drive a 1996 coil sierra.
Am I right in saying that the only diff I can use to replace the current one is one from another coil Sierra? Also, it is fitted with an ARB air locker so does this make a difference?
I'm just wondering what I should be looking for in the for sale section. A whole rear diff and axle?
Not looking for an upgrade solution as I'll be selling it shortly, preferably with the air locker still working.
Thanks, Drew.
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Coil Sierra Rear Diff/Axle Question
Coil Sierra Rear Diff/Axle Question
S1 R33 Gts-t: ITS T04e, Wolf3dv4, 16psi - 242rwkw - DEAD (mate flipped it)
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
Depends if its the crown and pinion, or the centre itself. If the centre is dead you no longer have a locker, if just the C&P, then your locker might still be good. Anyway if your planning on selling, I wouldn't worry about getting the air-locker replaced if it dead.
I'm fairly sure that you can't use pre-coily sierra diffs, but can't be sure. Just ensure you get the same ratio as is already their, otherwise you would have to get a matching pair (3.9 i think in coily sierra).
I'm fairly sure that you can't use pre-coily sierra diffs, but can't be sure. Just ensure you get the same ratio as is already their, otherwise you would have to get a matching pair (3.9 i think in coily sierra).
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
I'M PRETTY SHORE THE CENTER FROM THE EARLIER 1.3LT LEAF MODELS FIT IN HOUSING SUIT AXELS ETC..
BUT THERE ABOUT AN 20-30MM SHORTER SO YOU'LL NEED TO SEE HOW MUCH PLAY YOU HAVE ON YOUR DRIVE SHAFT I JUST PUT A COILY REAR DIFF IN A LWB LEAF SPRUNG AND HAD TO MOVE THE DIFF HOUSING BACK 30MM SO THE DRIVE SHAFT WOULD NOT BIND UP
HOPE IT HELPS YOU
BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY THING RIP YOUR AXELS OUT DROP YOUR CENTER AND SEE WHATS WRONG THEN ASK AGAIN FOR A GOOD DIRECTION TO FIX PROBLEM
BUT THERE ABOUT AN 20-30MM SHORTER SO YOU'LL NEED TO SEE HOW MUCH PLAY YOU HAVE ON YOUR DRIVE SHAFT I JUST PUT A COILY REAR DIFF IN A LWB LEAF SPRUNG AND HAD TO MOVE THE DIFF HOUSING BACK 30MM SO THE DRIVE SHAFT WOULD NOT BIND UP
HOPE IT HELPS YOU
BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY THING RIP YOUR AXELS OUT DROP YOUR CENTER AND SEE WHATS WRONG THEN ASK AGAIN FOR A GOOD DIRECTION TO FIX PROBLEM
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
DEPRESS CAPS LOCK KEY ONCE (1)offroader-rama wrote:I'M PRETTY SHORE THE CENTER FROM THE EARLIER 1.3LT LEAF MODELS FIT IN HOUSING SUIT AXELS ETC..
BUT THERE ABOUT AN 20-30MM SHORTER SO YOU'LL NEED TO SEE HOW MUCH PLAY YOU HAVE ON YOUR DRIVE SHAFT I JUST PUT A COILY REAR DIFF IN A LWB LEAF SPRUNG AND HAD TO MOVE THE DIFF HOUSING BACK 30MM SO THE DRIVE SHAFT WOULD NOT BIND UP
HOPE IT HELPS YOU
BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY THING RIP YOUR AXELS OUT DROP YOUR CENTER AND SEE WHATS WRONG THEN ASK AGAIN FOR A GOOD DIRECTION TO FIX PROBLEM
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 4:05 pm
Location: in the shed cutting/grinding/welding mocks old shit vic
all the jimny diffs i've found are all the same ratio (4.090), overseas they got the different ratios for auto's & manuals. but from what i can tell we only got the one ratio for both.mud4b wrote:you can also use a jimny rear centre from a jimny with a g13bb engine.. try keep it manual as the auto were different ratios.
i'm running the G13b manual diff in the rear and a M13a auto in the front. every other diff i have found has the same ratio.
Mitch
[quote="Gwagensteve"]
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Steve,[/quote]
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nope, apparently I hate suzukis so nobody should be surprised by that :roll:
Steve,[/quote]
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