Outer Limits 4x4 Board

what needs to be done ona defender with a 6" spring lift. Caster angle, rotate diffs etc.. any advice would be appreciated!

Why would u want to lift a feder that much???
You can run 36" tyres with 2"lift

If you had to do it you would have to do shock mounts,rotate the swivell housings,tailshafts,brakelines,rear trailing arms,A frame and theres probably more i cant think of right now..

ordered 4" springs from kings, fitted them 2 days ago sitting bout 6"from standard got w/shop facilities already cranked arms and braced cardinal joint on front shaft adj panhard rod mod a frame rear will mod shock towers when i work out what shocks to get?????

Finding shocks might be tough.....Look at 80 Series Cruiser shocks for the front with a shock tower spacer....As for the rear Pro Comp do a long Rover shock that wont require any pin to eye converter but u will need to space your bump stops...

I run 11" Pro Comps in the back with a 3" lift and retained springs and love them...great value for money.

snail bait we need pics of this lift i got 4" lift and thats high on
cross slopes

cheers Jeff

I had a 4 - 5" lift on mine and ran 37s. I needed a new tailshaft and fitted cranked arms. Brake lines were fine.

This is how mine looked...



So another 1.5 - 2" on top of that and you could run 40 - 42" tyres

Just don't go wheeling in it with 40s on it...mine held up to 37" Creepies but I think 40s would be pushing it

trying to get some photos posted gotta get them off my phone, only running 33's at the mo would like to wheel with 36's afta doing t/case gears!

Without Pix this thread is useless.

sclarke7171 wrote:Without Pix this thread is useless.

I put one up

Micka wrote:

sclarke7171 wrote:Without Pix this thread is useless.

I put one up

We know your rig is tough, but i want to see the Thread creators rig.

Clarkie

sclarke7171 wrote:

Micka wrote:

sclarke7171 wrote:Without Pix this thread is useless.

I put one up

We know your rig is tough, but i want to see the Thread creators rig.

Clarkie

I know that, Clarkie...just being stoopid.

Make with the farkin pics, Snail Bait...or that's what you'll end up as

Here, in the meantime does this help at all?

OMFG dude...that is sh!t hot

fully Shick mate

Micka wrote:I had a 4 - 5" lift on mine and ran 37s. I needed a new tailshaft and fitted cranked arms. Brake lines were fine.

This is how mine looked...



So another 1.5 - 2" on top of that and you could run 40 - 42" tyres

Just don't go wheeling in it with 40s on it...mine held up to 37" Creepies but I think 40s would be pushing it

tell me Micka, are you running the original half shafts or stronger since the 36" tyres?
what about the front bells' are they also original?

what is needed for running 36's on the point of mechanical failures?

Gali.

So to run 35's all u need is a 2' lift. Is that all that needs to be done. Im new to this rover stuff.

Yes, depending on rim offset you may need to adjust your steering bolts to stop it hitting the trailing arm, and cut a little of the rubber flares to stop hitting under full flex.



Before Guard Chop


After Guard Chop

gali wrote:

Micka wrote:I had a 4 - 5" lift on mine and ran 37s. I needed a new tailshaft and fitted cranked arms. Brake lines were fine.

This is how mine looked...



So another 1.5 - 2" on top of that and you could run 40 - 42" tyres

Just don't go wheeling in it with 40s on it...mine held up to 37" Creepies but I think 40s would be pushing it

tell me Micka, are you running the original half shafts or stronger since the 36" tyres?
what about the front bells' are they also original?

what is needed for running 36's on the point of mechanical failures?

Gali.

All axels/cvs are standard. The only thing I ever broke was my tailshaft after dragging it over some sharp rocks and then going full noise up a steep climb out of a creek bed...



I am sure that I was probably just lucky not to break the CVs, but I also was very carefull with wheel placement and wary of binding up tyres. The factory ETC would have also helped look after the axels/CVs.

That tailshaft looks like my one... well the old one....


But yours is far worse....

well my tailshaft is not the original anymore but a stronger one.
i thought that if you go 35's you must install some stronger half shafts & change the gear ratio to a lower one.

i'm running a TDI300, which is not so known as a fast & strong, are you runing a V8?

Gali.

TD5 with the ECU remapped from Bruce Davis Performance Landies.

4.6L v8 here. Made the 4spd box cruise better on the highway by moving to 35's. Doesn't rev as hard. Idle speed is still fine.

Stocker 300TDI..........

whats the point of those pics Steve? that ain't no 6" lift... or is someone showing off there newly finished winch bar

outlaw wrote:whats the point of those pics Steve? that ain't no 6" lift... or is someone showing off there newly finished winch bar

Which he made upside-down

The Scorpion ones have the small tube gussets underneath, Clarky

And where the fark has Snailbait gone?

Make wiv da farkin pics of your 6000" lifted Fender

Micka wrote:

outlaw wrote:whats the point of those pics Steve? that ain't no 6" lift... or is someone showing off there newly finished winch bar

Which he made upside-down

The Scorpion ones have the small tube gussets underneath, Clarky

If i had wanted to copy the Scariron racing ones i would have....
Instead i made my own...

What is the pint of the smaller bar being at the bottom? when it gets hit it bends... at least mine will not suffer the small bar bending 1st....

Best i ask Black board Mr Squigle....

Micka wrote:I had a 4 - 5" lift on mine and ran 37s. I needed a new tailshaft and fitted cranked arms. Brake lines were fine.

This is how mine looked...



So another 1.5 - 2" on top of that and you could run 40 - 42" tyres

Just don't go wheeling in it with 40s on it...mine held up to 37" Creepies but I think 40s would be pushing it

Really?
much more than 37's will hit the bulkhead outrigger(support) so
40-42s required frame work.

jsttry wrote:Yes, depending on rim offset you may need to adjust your steering bolts to stop it hitting the trailing arm, and cut a little of the rubber flares to stop hitting under full flex.



Before Guard Chop


After Guard Chop

This is a real seven-wheeler!

or even 8 wheeler.