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Welding to cast iron........
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 11:22 am
by mattsluxtruck
Hi all
Im just about to start building my spare wheel carrier and I have a bit of a drama. I am going to use the modified stub axle method to do this. The bearing holder i have to go over the stub axle is made out of cast iron and I have to attach my wheel carrier to it. Is there any trick to welding steel to cast iron , or anything I need to be aware of? I will be using a stick welder to do it.
Any input appreciated.
Thanx
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 3:18 pm
by Ice
its most likely going to crack
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 4:03 pm
by bazooked
got to be heated in a coal fire and welded in a coal fire( embers), a rather lenghthy process and not worth doing unless ur experienced.
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 4:07 pm
by Chook350
u could try with the arc welder using weldall rods, there expensive but good at joining diffrent metals
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 4:57 pm
by RUFF
Are you sure its Cast Iron? Most are Cast steel. Two very different metals to weld to.
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:25 pm
by mattsluxtruck
Dunno Ruff its got me stuffed what its made of. It is just one of the universal trailer hubs I was gunna modify. Is there anyway I can tell what its made of? If it is cast steel does it make the welding easier? I want to weld some SHS on to it.
Cheers
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:21 pm
by KiwiBacon
Get something that you know is cast iron and buzz each of them with the grinder.
The sparks will tell you if it's the same material.
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:19 pm
by high n mighty
If it is cast iron pre-heat it and then weld but you will have to cool it very slowly. My mate uses a blanket that I think is made from dry fibreglass? and it can take over 24 hours for things to cool in the right environment.
Can't gaurantee cast won't crack later though, it is a different material to steel to start with.
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:23 pm
by its aford not a nissan
if it is cast iron forget it get someone else who is experianced to do it
but if it is steel go for it
Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 8:23 am
by V8Patrol
Cast Iron.... Cast steel ...... give it a grind and the sparks color will tell you ( cast iron produces buck all sparks in a dark orange color )
If its cast steel you'll need a DC welder, 16TC rods ( WIA ).
(nb: these rods dont suit the amaturer welder & require some degree of skill to use..... you'll go nuts trying to use em if your a Mr Joe average welder)
If its cast iron, bronze may well be an option, about the only way to actually get a decent weld.
Castcraft rods will do it ok but preperation is a major key, again a DC welder will out perform the AC unit and when coupled with the long arc style should produce a good weld.
Remember preperation is the key here..... if you think this will take half an hour then start looking at other options, most likely this will take a day to be done correctly.
Personally I cant see why you dont just drill a piece of 10mm plate to suit the stud pattern , mount it onto some 3" pipe and then mount it to ya rack.
That way its all the one material that you can work over and over again and with relitave ease.
Seems like a whole lotta heart ache for SFA reward
Kingy
Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 9:41 am
by RUFF
Kingy i beleive he is trying to use the hub on the pivot not to mount the wheel.
Also if its cast steel ive never had a single issue with just pre-heating and welding with a mig. My buggy has run at a guess 20+ Rock Crawling events with a Cast steel Welded steering arm that was welded with a mig without a failure yet.
Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 8:28 pm
by Carl Coight
RUFF wrote:Kingy i beleive he is trying to use the hub on the pivot not to mount the wheel.
Also if its cast steel ive never had a single issue with just pre-heating and welding with a mig. My buggy has run at a guess 20+ Rock Crawling events with a Cast steel Welded steering arm that was welded with a mig without a failure yet.
16TC's are low hydrogen and so is a mig.
But cast iron does require the correct rods or it WILL break.
I have welded several cast components to different metals and can say if you do this for youself be sure your insurance is paid up, cause it aint gonna be pretty
Go to a professional or find another material.
Carl.
Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 12:53 pm
by eliteforce32
carl v8 patrol is right on rod selection...... mig is a form a of high tensile welding but the low hydro rods are the go...... maybe even some (CIG)cobolt 650's....( these have a higher carbon content) and yes use fiberglass or some other form of insulation to let cool very slow...
secondly it could be bright bar also.... don't some trailers stub axel's made out of the that especially these, run of the mill hubs
... if so do as V8PATROL saids us a dc welder with some of the rods or just mig it it and u will not have a problem.
just use some mild steel components with bolt on items ..... sum think out side the box... there are a few other componants that have a stub with bearing.
just my 2c
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:44 am
by sudso
Chook350 wrote:u could try with the arc welder using weldall rods, there expensive but good at joining diffrent metals
Cast iron isnt one of them with weldalls
pivot
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:38 pm
by Grasshopper
Save all the hassle why not buy a proper machined steel pivot. When I built my carrier they cost $92.00 delivered for two. Could be alot cheaper in the long run than having the carrier disengage from the vehicle at 100km/h and make itself a new home in someones radiator.
Try this link for the hub.
http://trailerparts.net.au
Good luck.
Re: pivot
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:49 pm
by chimpboy
Grasshopper wrote:Save all the hassle why not buy a proper machined steel pivot. When I built my carrier they cost $92.00 delivered for two. Could be alot cheaper in the long run than having the carrier disengage from the vehicle at 100km/h and make itself a new home in someones radiator.
Try this link for the hub.
http://trailerparts.net.au
Good luck.
Yup.
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:50 pm
by mattsluxtruck
Yeah I remembered an old post on here with a guy building a carrier for he jeep so i looked it up and he had links to Martins Trailer parts where i ordered a new stub , machined bare steel hub pivot and a heavy duty catch for $85 delivered. Makes life much easier in the long run............
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:13 am
by keencdk
Any reason you have to weld the swing arm on? If you are using the standard hub with holes for the wheel lugs, why not just use these holes/lugs and bolt the swing arm on?
old thread
Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 8:31 pm
by Luxisgood
I know this is an old thread, but if you need cast iron welded I know a bloke in Canberra who can do it properly.
He is ex RAAF with all the appropriate gear.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:53 pm
by krf_bb
not worth welding mate
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 9:12 am
by Luxisgood
I know one exhaust shop that would argue that point with you..
Weld a manifold or replace the lot - bit of a difference in price.
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:15 pm
by disco200tdi
I welded mild steel to a wheel hub using stainless steel electrodes and an inverter arc welder.
Still together after 3 years and plenty of outback corrugations.