Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi, I was hoping if people could give me some suggestions as to my best approach after running my BJ73 dry.
Long story short: while off-roading I lost all coolant, but I wasn't the wiser as the temp gauge went only to 3/4. As it had been previously blocked full of rust and junk this was not unusual for my motor and I had been trying to flush it piror. It wasn't until blue smoke was coming out of the exhaust and motor starting to lose power I suspected something was up.
The motor then died at some very soft sand.
There was still plenty of engine oil, but motor wouldn't start until it was cooled. i.e. when trying to turn it over it sounded like the battery was dead. Once cooled, it started with ease, and didn't smoke blue.
When I got it home, I started to replace the buggered & rusting thermostat but notice engine oil in the water jacket in the head. I straight away I suspected head was either warped or cracked.

my questions are:

1/ am I correct to assume the head will need looking into?

2/ what about the water cooled turbo, as it ran dry of coolant as well.

3/ would I need to look at the block and top end?

4/ I'm looking in the future, as I would like to get big horsepower off it. I read in another thread, which I can't find, that I thought Dumbdance said it is possible to get 300 odd horsepower from these motors.
If I do need major engine work and hence a rebuild, would there be anything extra I should do while I'm at it?

thanks in advance for any feedback

Same thing happened to me with my 2h, went to change gears and it stalled, later when it cooled down and got home, had some water coming out the engine pipe.
ended up just being the head gasket. so hope it works out cheaply for you.

Buy another motor. Dont muck with it, it will never be any good again.
or buy some chemi weld and run it like that, it might fix it...

Thanks for both your responses.
Dow50r, I might run some chemical weld once I put it back together again.
I can't afford to buy another motor at this stage.

I pulled the head off today.
Man is the head heavy, (as compared to my old misty 2.5 diesel turbo!).
Upon inspection from my untrained unskilled eyes, the head looked good, with no obvious problems. The head gasket wasn't blown either, and the bore and piston crowns looked good.
Rangie Thing, I hope that it's just the same as with your 2h

The previous owner must have never used antifreeze / corrosion inhibitor as the water passages and plumbing were all rusty in colour and was sh.t ty looking, though looked like it just needs a good flush or three.

While I've got the head off, aside from getting it checked for warping, should I get it crack tested? What about the valves?
Is there anything I can check before passing it to the Pros?

thanks

what ever you do DONT put chemi weld in your truck that stuff is evil and shit it fucks everything in your cooling system and will cost you more in the end, for starters fill your cooling system back up turn the heater on hot and let it run with the radiator cap off to let the system bleed being a diesel if you have a blown headgasket or a cracked head it will bubble allot because of the high compression engine. but if it is the head you will have remove it and send it away to a head specialist to get checked out, once head is off just do a visual inspection of the bore if it looks good just get a vrs kit and slap it back 2gether, and i would recommend sending your radiator away to a specialist aswell to get tanks flushed and cleaned.

Just got the assessment of the head back from the mechanic.
Good news,
Head isn't cracked, just needs a slight surfacing. valves need a "clean-up" and collets replacing.
Phew, but I'll still replace the rings while I'm at it.
Toyoda built em tough, (unlike my old misty).

Thanks for the people's feedback.

hmm I don't know what I was thinking if I said a 3B could do 300Hp - maybe I was talking about a 14/15B-(F)T?

a 13B-T at 30psi boost would make maybe 250hp, you would probably need to bring the compression down a bit, intercool a lot, and definitely fit a bigger turbo to achieve it though. would be in the region of 550+Nm which would be plenty.

sounds like your 13B-T needs a lot of love before it's well enough to make 100hp again though. if you want big numbers you would have to start with a fresh, good engine. keeping it cool would be half the battle.

Hi Dumbdunce,
thanks for your input.

Based upon another of your posts, I have purchased a top mounted air-water Intercooler off a Subaru Legacy.
I have also been considering LPG as I have picked up a unit very cheaply.
What sort of power could I realistically achieve with the standard turbo, 3inch exhaust and if possible 20psi?

crazymanwithavan wrote:Hi Dumbdunce,
thanks for your input.

Based upon another of your posts, I have purchased a top mounted air-water Intercooler off a Subaru Legacy.
I have also been considering LPG as I have picked up a unit very cheaply.
What sort of power could I realistically achieve with the standard turbo, 3inch exhaust and if possible 20psi?

stock turbo is only good for maybe 13 - 14psi tops. with LPG, maybe 130kW, but the efficiency of the turbo at that boost will drive the EGT's up.

cheers

InSanE wrote:what ever you do DONT put chemi weld in your truck that stuff is evil and shit it ***** everything in your cooling system and will cost you more in the end, for starters fill your cooling system back up turn the heater on hot and let it run with the radiator cap off to let the system bleed being a diesel if you have a blown headgasket or a cracked head it will bubble allot because of the high compression engine. but if it is the head you will have remove it and send it away to a head specialist to get checked out, once head is off just do a visual inspection of the bore if it looks good just get a vrs kit and slap it back 2gether, and i would recommend sending your radiator away to a specialist aswell to get tanks flushed and cleaned.

I think you are getting chemiweld mixed up with Bars leaks.....that stuff is evil, stops leaks by blocking everything...chemiweld coats all surfaces with glass to stop leaks....another good one is engine stop leak....ive used both and kept the motors going for years afterwards, its not the best solution, but beats walking...

crazymanwithavan wrote:Hi, I was hoping if people could give me some suggestions as to my best approach after running my BJ73 dry.
Long story short: while off-roading I lost all coolant, but I wasn't the wiser as the temp gauge went only to 3/4. As it had been previously blocked full of rust and junk this was not unusual for my motor and I had been trying to flush it piror. It wasn't until blue smoke was coming out of the exhaust and motor starting to lose power I suspected something was up.
The motor then died at some very soft sand.
There was still plenty of engine oil, but motor wouldn't start until it was cooled. i.e. when trying to turn it over it sounded like the battery was dead. Once cooled, it started with ease, and didn't smoke blue.
When I got it home, I started to replace the buggered & rusting thermostat but notice engine oil in the water jacket in the head. I straight away I suspected head was either warped or cracked.

my questions are:

1/ am I correct to assume the head will need looking into?

2/ what about the water cooled turbo, as it ran dry of coolant as well.

3/ would I need to look at the block and top end?

4/ I'm looking in the future, as I would like to get big horsepower off it. I read in another thread, which I can't find, that I thought Dumbdance said it is possible to get 300 odd horsepower from these motors.
If I do need major engine work and hence a rebuild, would there be anything extra I should do while I'm at it?

thanks in advance for any feedback

From this i deduce your pistons have grown and grabbed the bores....i dont know HOW this could occur and you get away with a hone....u need to buy a ticket in the next 24 million powerball :@)

Hi dow50r,
funny you should mention about the pistons/bores.
Went in this morning to pick up the head
This was the engine rebuilder and not the mechanic I spoke to over the phone.
He pretty much suggested he should look at the bore/pistons before I did anything else.

Over here in kiwiland we haven't ever had a powerball reaching 24 million but this weekend is 9 million. I'm not fussy, That'll do me.

Fingers crossed as to what the enginer builder comes back with

Thought I'd update and close this thread.
4th piston scuffed. Head only needing planeing, exhaust valve seals replacing.
Piston pin bearings on all but no.1 buggered.
I've lightly honed the bores.

I've decided to replace both top and bottom bearings, the rings and slap the buggered back together.....

Bugger as I was typing this the engine rebuilder rang back and with a $NZ750.00 + GST bill for the "head" work.
Scrub that shopping list. I'll just bang it back together and pray to Allah.

Thank God I'm a Atheist