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buggy motor

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:19 am
by zuk33
now i have a 3.8 V6 in the buggy
but after getting it out it is not light!!!!!!
would like 2 put a little jap motor in it

think i would be looking at a SR20 or 13B
WHAT DO YOU THINK????
im guna go and get sum sizes just 2 make sore they will fit

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:31 am
by PJ.zook
Mate use a bike engine, buy one from auction or ebay, get engine and loom, sell the rest and you will make a lot of youre money back.
Bike engines are mostly twice the hp and half the weight of car engines.

EDIT: Im assuming youre talkin bout the full tube single seater independant suspension 500kg buggies, not like a 4x4 modded into buggy.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:51 am
by zuk33
sorry mate rock crawling buggy but im still guna mate it with the turbo 700

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:53 am
by nicbeer
PJ - Zook tube buggy.

Roctoy had a rotary in his.
Dont think many people have or use the 4's in there buggys apart from a couple zook 1.3 ones.
Sr20Det maybe.

watch out for torque output and delivery rev band.

Edit: May want to find out what will mate up to the turb 700 first then decide from there

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 11:02 am
by GQ4.8coilcab
roctoy does alright with his rotary, but for a piston engine dont forget the toyota 3SGE, 3SFE or the 4AGE. These engines, not so much the 3SFE, are used alot in class 2 dune buggys. lxjextreme uses a 3SFE celica motor.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 11:32 am
by chunderlicious
ull find that the main problem with some of those motors is the rev range. a 4AG is pretty shit to drive while crawling. they are in a decent rev range abouve 3G so might not be the best choice. sr20 DET might be a bit better as they hit max torque around 2500 and hold it till nearly 4G. they have other problems though.

Re: buggy motor

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:08 pm
by redzook
zuk33 wrote:now i have a 3.8 V6 in the buggy
but after getting it out it is not light!!!!!!
would like 2 put a little jap motor in it

think i would be looking at a SR20 or 13B
WHAT DO YOU THINK????
im guna go and get sum sizes just 2 make sore they will fit
dont worry bout a rotor
the 2 buggys i have seen with them neva really ran right and pretty much always had problems with them

id run what u have
cheap and relaible and decent power

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:10 pm
by juls
Its going to depend really on how much you want to spend.

Quad cam alloy v6 or v8 will win for power/weight ratio. Not going to be cheap.

CA18 is substantially lighter than a SR20 even though its cast iron vs alloy. SR20 turbo has more power potential than a CA18 turbo but again big power = big $$.

KA24E, 12v engine from a navara is cheap and has good torque.

The commodore v6 however is cheap. Easy to modify, plenty of off the shelf parts and it already fits. Youre maybe only going to save 50-100kg by running a SR20 and then youve sacrificed all your torque.

I'd spend 1/2 the money you were going to spend on fitting a new engine on the commodore v6 and be happy. Might even be able to get a turbo and a delco remap with the budget?

I have no idea why anyone would run a rotary in a 4wd.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:43 pm
by zuk33
ok thanks
have been a great help
was looking a it and it is guna be big work 2 get other motors in there
anyway.

pp

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:51 pm
by tuf045
I have no idea why anyone would run a rotary in a 4wd.[/quote]

Because if no one tryed anything diffrent we would'nt have buggies to put heavy motors in.
lighter not always better! weight duz help with traction.

if you want light and some power what about 3.9 rover motor and auto if you get the right auto it will bolt up to your transfer.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:38 pm
by Tim D
look at the current tuff truck winner (rover buggy)
i wonder why no one has made an electric buggy yet ?
look it up on youtube, some wicked cars converted to electric.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 8:11 pm
by nottie
I would stick with the flogadoor As others have said they have good power are cheap easy to find / replace and there is allready one in there.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 8:25 pm
by ausyota
Stick with the crummydore motor but chuck on a blower :twisted:

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:30 pm
by Mulisha
ausyota wrote:Stick with the crummydore motor but chuck on a blower :twisted:
Or a turbz :D :armsup:

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:38 pm
by mud4b
i think a hell of a lot of people miss one big point here in reguards to powerbands and revs.

usually a buggy is in low not high, this does change the way it moves when revving...and it actually allows you to use the revs that some of these smaller or turbocharged engines need whilst still going slow and not at 100ks a hour..

just something to think about.. :D

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:50 pm
by Gwagensteve
There are a few people at cross purposes here I think.

Sure, for a "tough truck" style buggy thing, that might have to deal with mud and run a very big tyre, I am sure that large capacity/high torque/low RPM engines are favourable- this seems to be the case from what I have seen of this type of competition.

However, for outright rockcrawling competition, what I have seen would indicate that there is no clear advantage for a low RPM/high torque motor.

However, it is not this clear cut. LJXtreem's Rodent does run a 3SFE, but does it A) almost on the weight limit (1000kg) and B) through the stock Toyota transaxle, giving an effective 4.3(?):1 low range. It certainly doesn't seem to lack power or punch in the short obstacles/high traction seen in pure rockcrawling. It seems to me that in this kind of situation, gears and usable rev range seem to be as worthy as low rpm torque

Obviously, commodore V6 into a 700R4 will require a completely different layout to something with a transaxle adding to weight and generally wheelbase, so it is hard to compare apples with apples.

Personally, I think that revs and gears are fine and underrated for difficult terrain - I am building a 660cc sierra - the second I have put together and on hard terrain with enough gears, they are the s*it.

Ljxtreem and I spent a long time looking at a 660cc transaxle powered, narrow track sierra axled buggy build, aiming for 600kg. unfortunately, the 1000kg limit killed the idea, so Mock scaled up the ideas.

Just my 2C worth.

Steve.

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:50 am
by redzook
Tim D wrote: i wonder why no one has made an electric buggy yet ?
look it up on youtube, some wicked cars converted to electric.
they have

but they arnt allowed to compete

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:06 pm
by WICKED
3rz-fe

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:20 pm
by Gwagensteve
3rz - yes, good choice for a light buggy. About hte only problem i can see with the 3RZ is that they don't really like a rev - they tend to get pretty thrashy above maybe 5500rpm.

Very torquey though.

Re: buggy motor

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:13 pm
by Dozoor
zuk33 wrote:now i have a 3.8 V6 in the buggy
but after getting it out it is not light!!!!!!
would like 2 put a little jap motor in it

think i would be looking at a SR20 or 13B
WHAT DO YOU THINK????
im guna go and get sum sizes just 2 make sore they will fit

I think your having a brain fart , How many hours behind the wheel have you had in it ?

You havnt thought about the gearing hard enough ,
what you have at the moment 3-1 first ,doubled by the converter =6-1
x the lt230 low range 3.32 =19.92-1 x your diff ratios maybe 4.1-1? if so
81-1 crawl ratio .

Now if you lose the box and transfer , you need to spend around 1500-2000 bucks plus on top of your new box and transfer to get any where close to that ratio . ;)



Paint it and put the suker back together and drive !

Re: buggy motor

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:01 pm
by POS
Dozoor wrote:
zuk33 wrote:now i have a 3.8 V6 in the buggy
but after getting it out it is not light!!!!!!
would like 2 put a little jap motor in it

think i would be looking at a SR20 or 13B
WHAT DO YOU THINK????
im guna go and get sum sizes just 2 make sore they will fit

I think your having a brain fart , How many hours behind the wheel have you had in it ?

You havnt thought about the gearing hard enough ,
what you have at the moment 3-1 first ,doubled by the converter =6-1
x the lt230 low range 3.32 =19.92-1 x your diff ratios maybe 4.1-1? if so
81-1 crawl ratio .

Now if you lose the box and transfer , you need to spend around 1500-2000 bucks plus on top of your new box and transfer to get any where close to that ratio . ;)



Paint it and put the suker back together and drive !
Bingo!

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:10 pm
by zuk33
yep that is the plan now