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Paint stripping
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:34 pm
by badger
Basically respraying an mk patrol and someone has painted it with enamel so the new paint wouldnt take.
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=105158
we have decided to strip it back to bare metal.
Due to the amount of different paint jobs this car has had its taken 4 litres of paint stripper (60 bucs) to do 2 doors 2 gaurds and the bonnet. and even then we had to finish them with a wire brush wheel
IS THERE A BETTER WAY?
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:56 pm
by G_loomis
Not that I know of...you could just try an orbital sander with a rough grade sandpaper. Actually come to think of it, that would probably be a better way to go.
But on a side note, (just in case you didnt know) dont leave it bare metal for too long..and even when its primed up...dont leave it too long either. Primer is actually pourus and WILL let moisture through.
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:56 pm
by badger
shit i didnt kno the primer was pourus :s
the panels are out side covered in etch primer
will they be ok till next weekend?
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:07 pm
by jaspers joint
Did u scratch the paint before u put the paint striper on?
If you us a orbital sander dont hold it 1 area to long it will warp the panels
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:12 pm
by Mick.
badger wrote:shit i didnt kno the primer was pourus :s
the panels are out side covered in etch primer
will they be ok till next weekend?
No get them inside.
A trade secret when using paint stripper is once you put a nice even coat of stripper down get a sheet of plastic and cover the paint stripper and push it gently down on the panel trying to keep as little air between them as possable. (a cheapo drop sheep from bunnings will do $2 each)
This stops the stripper from evaperating before it's had time to work. Leave it for 30 minutes then remove. This will make life much easier and the stripper will work a lot better.
It's probably been paint in acrylic before which is a little harder to remove then 2pack or enamel.
Once you have most of the paint off then you can sand it down with a orbital sander with some 80 grit but make sure you finish off with 120 grit before you prime them.
BTW even 2 pack primer is porus.
Cheers Mick.
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:34 pm
by badger
shit im going out side to bring them under cover now.
no actual inside area to put them but the patio will have to do
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:35 pm
by jcclures
I just use paint stripper and wrap in home brand cling wrap, the type you use in the kitchen, when you see it stop working under the cling wrap, remove and remove the old paint, a good pressure cleaner will remove most of the old paint. I just repeat the process until most of the paint is removed, and sand the remainder.
Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 8:28 am
by badger
Thanks for the tips guys.
the drop sheets and cling wrap works heaps better.
Also found that K&H brand paint stripper seems to be alot stronger than spetone. and it burns your skin immediatly whereas the septone stuff takes about 5 mins to burn.
and is actually 10 bucs cheaper
We got all the bolt on pannels and almost all of the cab stripped yesterday so hopefully there will be colour by tonight
Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 11:01 am
by Mick.
Good luck with it mate.
I've found some paint strippers to be heaps stronger then others and sometimes there even the same brand.
Cheers Mick.
Paint Stripper
Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 1:36 pm
by want33s
jcclures wrote:I just use paint stripper and wrap in home brand cling wrap, the type you use in the kitchen, when you see it stop working under the cling wrap, remove and remove the old paint, a good pressure cleaner will remove most of the old paint. I just repeat the process until most of the paint is removed, and sand the remainder.
If you use paint stripper DON'T rinse off with water.. Use thinners and a PLASTIC scourer. Using water on bare metal is not a good idea.
Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 8:33 pm
by badger
tis a bit hard to pressure clean on level 5 water restrictions:P
Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:15 pm
by shakes
G_loomis wrote:But on a side note, (just in case you didnt know) dont leave it bare metal for too long..and even when its primed up...dont leave it too long either. Primer is actually pourus and WILL let moisture through.
to save another thread....
is there any primer that isnt pourus and WILL seal the panel?
I wanna start stripping my 1600 ready for paint/rust repairs but it wont happen over a weekend, it'll be over several months
Simon
Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:55 pm
by Mick.
shakes wrote:G_loomis wrote:But on a side note, (just in case you didnt know) dont leave it bare metal for too long..and even when its primed up...dont leave it too long either. Primer is actually pourus and WILL let moisture through.
to save another thread....
is there any primer that isnt pourus and WILL seal the panel?
I wanna start stripping my 1600 ready for paint/rust repairs but it wont happen over a weekend, it'll be over several months
Simon
No there's not unfortunately.
The best primer to use which is less porus then acrylic is a 2 pack primer but I wouldn't leave it outside for long either. If you have no choice but to prime something and leave it outside I would recomend you prime the panels, guide coat them and then spray a light coat of acrylic clear over them to seal them off. This will make them harder to rub down later but thats better then the panels rusting out from the inside out.
Cheers Mick.
Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 6:09 pm
by Adam GQ
if you use a guide coat it helps a bit
Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:25 pm
by Mick.
Adam GQ wrote:if you use a guide coat it helps a bit
The guide coat wont make the primer less porus it only helps you see the highs and lows and where you have and haven't rubbed.
Cheers Mick.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:20 pm
by krf_bb
caustic acid is another good choice