Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Considering Turboing my 2H.

I have read in a thread that turbos out of a 300ZX are good.

They use two T28's which were also used on the 2.8litre Nissan Patrol Turbo Diesel.

Would these be a little small for the 2H (?)


Also, I was thinking of the possibility of going to a truck wreckers and picking up some stuff. Does anyone know if this would be a cheaper way to go?

What truck turbos would be suitable? Are you better off going off similar capacity or Horsepower rating of the engine?

I have average welding ability (not great!) How tricky is it creating your own turbo flange?

What sort of prices would I be paying for turbo and such?

Thanks....

heres another one...

would a truck turbo be more suitable cause it spools up quicker??? (at lower rpm)

A CT26 which comes standard on a 12HT is a goer.
Also i think they are a VG30 off the nissan's. Water cooled and ceramic turbine i believe.
Truck turbo is too big, requires more are to get it spinning.
Small turbo spools up quicker but lacks top end. For a 2H top end isn't that important.
Ball bearing will spool up quicker as well. I'd say something starting to make boost around 1500 rpm would be good and if it runs out of puff at 3 and half grand then big deal. If your near your peak boost between 1800 and 2000 it'll be a whole new car to drive.

+intercooler!!

Cheers dan

kinda unrelated, but turboing a 2h is it ture you have to strengthen the head by replacing and adding more bolts?

EDIT: a mechanic mate told me that head bolts streach and can warp and crack the head... so its better to strenghten them before fitting a turbo...

4runner2.8 wrote:kinda unrelated, but turboing a 2h is it ture you have to strengthen the read by replacing and adding more bolts?

say what?

3500 is big revs in a 2H, did it on my turbo one on the weekend overtaking up a hill and fark me was there some black smoke. Definitely going to intercooler and up the boost when i have some coin...

I'd go with the T28 but as a roller GT28, there are a couple of models, the only hassle is that you have to re-stud pattern the exhaust manifold as they are all designed around T3 turbo flanges. The biggest GT28Rs is rated to 440 HP and I have fitted them to 1HZ and TD42 and they work fantastic as they spool really quick. There are people using them on TB42 as well but the exhaust temps and pressures are massive and its not a great idea(Garret suggest maximum engine size of 2.6L but this is for petrol, diesel exhaust temps are much lower). As they spool fast you can put more fuel in without black smoke being excessive even without an aneroid. Id be conservative on a 2H, they break.
Joel

PGS 4WD wrote:I'd go with the T28 but as a roller GT28, there are a couple of models, the only hassle is that you have to re-stud pattern the exhaust manifold as they are all designed around T3 turbo flanges. The biggest GT28Rs is rated to 440 HP and I have fitted them to 1HZ and TD42 and they work fantastic as they spool really quick. There are people using them on TB42 as well but the exhaust temps and pressures are massive and its not a great idea(Garret suggest maximum engine size of 2.6L but this is for petrol, diesel exhaust temps are much lower). As they spool fast you can put more fuel in without black smoke being excessive even without an aneroid. Id be conservative on a 2H, they break.
Joel

Restud the exhaust manifold???

I thought I would need to do some pretty full on mods to exhaust manifold anyways...
No one has answered this part of it for me yet.
Thanks Guys

The T28 and GT28 have a smaller stud pattern, I have in the past wound stainless studs in to the existing T3 holes and machined flat, then have drilled the T28 stud pattern. The holes interlock stopping the origional studs winding out. I have this on 1HZ and TB42 that have been running 2-3 years without a problem. That is using a regular cast manifold.
Joel

hjsixty wrote:I have average welding ability (not great!) How tricky is it creating your own turbo flange?

It's not THAT hard. In saying that a manifold made for the purpose of having a turbo would be better suited.
Also there are some varying factors. Sometimes it is possible to manufacture an adapter plate to simply bolt onto the flange the bolt the turbo onto, but given the size of the hole on a 2H manifold i'd say you'd be needing to manufacture an adaptor 'box' if you like. This could get tricky but if you make it from thick enough material and have the surfaces machined when you're done i guess it'd work ok. I've seen it done on small petty engines so i don't see why it wouldn't work.

The Re-studding of the manifold that Joel is talking about relates to a turbo manifold as they come with a T3 patern. You need to weld the holes on the flange and Re-drill them to suit the GT28 stud pattern.

The Nissan patrol 2.8 is a T25 turbo with very small A.R housings Eg.

Compressor .48 A.R
Exhaust .48 A.R

To small for your Yota.

I will post a pic of a bolt on adapter for a t3 flange to a t25, no redrilling just bolt on, thi smay be even easier again.

Do remeber that the 2h doesnt have a high fuel delivery and at 3500rpm, not a great airflow requirement. Mtach your turbo properly and it will be the best thing you did.

In your case at 3500rpm at 10psi you will use aprrox 22lbs of air a minute, thats not a big turbo.

Hope this helps.

Andy

The GT28RS I use is a .82 exhaust and .70 inlet, the reason I have restudded the manifold on the turbo mount flange is due to my applications being on a 1HZ and TD42. The big comp housing won't clear the chassis if you make a drop box on a GQ using a DTS maniflold, I have seen a chassis gas axed to clear the turbo housing but I dont think thats that appropriate. Personally I avoid welding cast iron, hence the stud filling with stainless studs, but welding will work,if you're going to weld though I'd do it on a new not seasoned exhaust manifold as it takes a very competant person using the correct materials to make something that wont crack.
Adam O'Brien second in the Vic winch 05 was one I did, A big white 80 wagon at the time, though its lost some weight since.
The small exhaust housing is no concern, your pump wont provide enough fuel to get near the limit of the turbo, the 80 at the time was making 150 rwkw it does now have a bigger turbo but some low down response was lost for greater power up high, that engine is capable of 5500 rpm with the bigger turbo and modded pump.

Joel

RE: truck turbo.

Would a truck turbo of a smaller truck (i.e. similar or smaller capacity) be better suited than a turbo off a petrol motor? Most small (~4.5t) trucks come onto boost fairly low in the range.

What i'm really asking is whether a well matched diesel turbo will go any better than a similarly sized turbo off a petrol motor. (different blade pitch etc?)

-Stu

I need advice now regards this exhaust manifold.

It seem i have these options:

1. Weld on a plate to existing manifold outlet (cast iron doesn't weld well - not such a good idea)

2. Fabricate an adapter plate which can be bolted to manifold and turbo. (probably best idea (?)

3. Buy a turbo kit (out of the question $2,000)

4. Buy a secondhand 12-ht turbo manifold (rare as hens teeth? / will it bolt straight onto 2h?)

What do yas reckon?

I've seen a MR2 turbo (i've been told yota used these on the 60 series turbo diesels) go on ebay for $150, so i'm figuring on picking up a turbo for couple of hundred, exhaust manifold for cheap - all up i want to do it for $500!

Exhaust manifold is my major issue.

Diesel and petrol turbos are the same with the exception that diesel turbos dont always have the same quality exhaust housings, the petrol is better to cope with the higher running temps. The best turbos are Ball bearing turbos, due to less internal friction they spool faster, they also have the latest design compressor and exhaust wheels for maximum efficiency.
Check http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... asics.html
For a cheaper turbo that will bolt straight to a STD T03 manifold pattern I'd suggest a TD04 or TD05 (Mitsubishi) They are a 360 thrust turbo for longevity.
You will probably find at the end of the day a whole kit isnt that dear when you consider its all there.
By the time you buy a Turbo, make ducting and a dump pipe, buy oil and water lines, but silicone hose, the price difference isn't that much.
Unless you can gaurantee the turbo condition 2nd hand it can cost as much to repair the turbo as a new one is, if the CHRA (centre housing rotating assembly) is stuffed you'll be up for a $800 + repair.
Joel