Outer Limits 4x4 Board

well, ive decided that i need a new motor as the old ones blowing heaps of smoke and just not running right even after hepas of work,


but seeing as how i have to keep going to work/uni ill be getting a motor and rebuilding outside the car then wacking it in.

i know there is a bit more of an expense to this, but i need the car on the road

what prices do you fellas reckon would be a good one for a motor, ill rebuild it.

cheers,

Mate I'm also after a 2.6 as well for the triton at work. I've heard good and bad about this motor.
The one I pulled out of our work car had grinded the bearing shells (from the pistons) to a fine paste in the bottom of the sump and sucked the shavings throughout the motor.
Can't really say that hey are bad but this is only my experience.
Cheers.
Ash.

I'm a little biassed but I think they're a great motor. I'm not sure what "bearing shells (from the pistons)" you're talking about, but I'd like to know if it's the original motor or a Dodgy Brothers rebuild. I've got a Sigma with 270k km on the bottom end, and it's still got excellent compression on all cylinders.

If you need a whole new motor, look at a Magna EFI motor converted to north-south, or (more $$$) find the 2.4i from a later model Tritons.

Not sure on costs, but I expect Magna motors will be easier to find than Sigma/Pajero motors.

Cheers,

Scott

Hey scott, I meant the bearing shells that go between the con rod and bearing cap on the piston had been completely grinded into shavings on two of the pistons.

Probably was a dodgy bros rebuild, the guy the boss bought the car off seemed a little shady!

Scott is right. I also have a 2.6 and has served perfectly till now. Sigma EFI Astrons is better solution but a friend had the 2.4L from a Triton and it's very good. Better performance, EFI and overall a more modern engine than the Astron. If you find one of the late models i believe it's about 138hp (i don't remember exactly) . The most important is the fact that you can fit it in your transferr case easily.

well as much as id like to get a triton engine i cant really justify all the stuffing around,

so ill stay with the astron- as i need it rebuilt kinda soon, (6weeks) so ive got a reliable car for when i go back to uni.

ill be doing allot of work myself so ill mostly be only paying for parts and beer gor mates who help


myplans are
-machine a little off the head
-lumpy cam(not to lumpy)
-oversized pistons
-hopefully side draught webbers (maybe 2)
-get rid of the balance shaft

NCpaj wrote:
-get rid of the balance shaft

Well, ok, but i definitely want to know the results on this... I have in mind to do it in the first chance I was informed that not all the balance shaft eliminator kits are good. A guy from US (who actually sells them) suggested me a simple way: remove the shaft that is close to the oil pump, cut it near the edge (now the shaft looks like the shaft piece from the kit) and put it back in. Finally, cut the chain to much the new length (- the other shaft is gone...)

pros: No money for the kit
it's the original thing...
cons: if you cut the balance shaft there is no way back (who needs one? )

the infamous balance shaft


see the damage that the balance shaft chain did to this tensioner when it was loose, it also really rounded of the teeth on the oil pump see the below pics

im pretty sure that could be the origion of the engine running on


the bores look in pretty good shape, you can still see the cross hatching



also found out the casue of the grinding nosie at starting i used to have before i put in the new starter motor-it was these grinded teeth on the flywheel, gotta get a new ring gear so it doesent wear away my new starter(seeing its only running on half a tooth) or get a new flywheel

aslo this is after my new suspension

arb 2" rear leaves and king springs(pretty much arb) heavy duty torsion bars

rides soooo much better

also dont worry the jack is under there to hold the gear box up as the engine was outta the car at that time (front rose by about 15mm)

You do know there's another balance shaft behind the oil pump?

From memory, you can't just "leave them out", as they both receive a pressurised oil feed. If you just "leave them out" too much oil gets pumped to the holes, and not enough elsewhere.

Or something like that...

You do know there's another balance shaft behind the oil pump?

yeah, im getting the balance shaft removal kit from bursons

-Scott- wrote: From memory, you can't just "leave them out", as they both receive a pressurised oil feed. If you just "leave them out" too much oil gets pumped to the holes, and not enough elsewhere.

Or something like that...

Absolutely correct. I don't know what parts your kit has but the shaft which is up on the head's side must remain in it's place. Just disconnect it.
Glad you started, mate. Good luck.

constapa wrote:

-Scott- wrote: From memory, you can't just "leave them out", as they both receive a pressurised oil feed. If you just "leave them out" too much oil gets pumped to the holes, and not enough elsewhere.

Or something like that...

Absolutely correct. I don't know what parts your kit has but the shaft which is up on the head's side must remain in it's place. Just disconnect it.
Glad you started, mate. Good luck.

yeah im not too sure whats in the kit--its gonna cost $50ish from bursons

ill post up a pic of whats in it when i get it

Hey fellas

The PAJ LIVES AGAIN

the engine is in-WOOOOOOOOH

HERES a list of the new bits i have put in
----------------------------------------
-second hand flywheel from magna wreck $65 (good ring gear)
-new pistons and all that stuff (engine rebuild kit)
-new fuel lines
-new fuel pump
-new water pump,radiator hoses, thermostat
-properly flushed the radiator
-new dizzy cap and rotor button and plugs and leads
-new air fliter
-ALL the heater hoses were replaced (gonna be reliable as) $80
-new clutch slave cylinder (was leaking)
-balance shaft removal kit
-new sprocket for oil pump
-had head recoed
-oil (penrite),oil filter


so all up it cost me bout $1000 excl labour (bout $500)-so $1500 all up
----------------------------------------------------------------
How it goes now (engine recoed at 308903KM)


Pretty good-(a bit of feedback for those interested in the no balance shaft idea) i cant tell the difference of vibration at idle, pulls a tiny bit better up the hills.The engine feels the same through out the rev range, i took it to 4grand and dosent have and more or less vibrations that before, and runs ALOT smoother, and dosent run on after it gets turned off and due to the new valve stem seals dosent smoke.


also- we made it look all smick, i spent 3 lunchtimes gurenying down the eninge bay(clean as), and the engine itself is gloss black bottom, and the head and rocker cover is polished up a bit, it looks very good,

i reckon after i get some corrogated hose in and sort out the wiring, it will look even better.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

ok heres a bit of an explaination of what the balance shaft removal kit does


-ok the balance shaft that isnt behind the oil pump- gets a metal ring loctited in to block the oil gallery (stop oil getting to where the balance shaft used to go)

-the balance shaft behind the oil pump is substitued with a shoft shaft, and a much smaller chain is put on that run directly from the sprocket attached to the crank (insert correct name here) to the oil pump, and the tensioner on the oil pump stays there

Nice one. (note to self: clean engine bay)

Nice one. (note to self: clean engine bay

yeah, lol its HEAPS cleaner now, even got some of that corragated hose and it cleaned up the look of the wiring real good


also moved the coil- so i can fit in anothe battery