Outer Limits 4x4 Board

my tacho every now and then goes hay wire and when it does the carby'd / LPG gq tb42 starts to miss and jump around only for a minute then fine for enother couple of ks when i stop to look for a broken wire or short etc every thing works and looks sweat idles fine just seems to be under load if, you can keep the revs over 3000 it doesn't seem to do it as bad any ideas. only been doing it for 2 days.
also resently ( a month ago) put a crane cams xr700 electronic dizzy and fire ball ps60 60,000v coil with new plugs and i have orded a new longer rotor cap

being realy good exept fuel consumption ( 280ks a tank of 85 ltr usely 350ks) but thats lpg side of things i think . also have i have 1.1 spark gap for the electronic dizzy / biger coil.
I have being told I should run a .8 gap for the LPG any info there would be great also.

guess its a nissan extra mines been doing it for nearly 2 years





http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... acho+pulse

i read the link mine is different to that, if that was it i wouldn't give 2 hoots. but it jerks the car badly not a fairy flutter and it finds any backlash in the drive line and makes it feel ten time worse, becuase it will be everything then nothing then everything again wack wack wack as the revs come on then off then on again almost give you whip lash.
if it keeps it up something will brake

Mine did the same..It was the points, replaced them and all ok again.

I'd try points but the wont fit in a electroinc dizzy unless they just float around in there

na i dont think that would do it

sorry next

If its effecting the Tacho and the car misses it sounds like a primary ignition issue, when you fitted the electronic did you be sure to source the power from 12v and not after the ballast, low voltage to the electronic ignition will cause issues.

Joel

when i put it in i was going to bypass the balast resister to make it 12 v but the instructions that came with it said to use the balast resister with that the crane xr700 if i used a xr3000 not use the balast resister what it said so i did then i took for a tune up on the dyno and they bypassed the balast resisiter saying i was only getting 6v so i left it bypassed that was 2000ks ago

when the tacho goes hay wire it'll jump from 1000rpm - 3000rpm and any where in between thats the tacho not the engine actully reving the same as what it says the engine just quickly dies, then goes, then dies, then goes, etc... jumping around and seems to be getting worse when warmed up. i think it may be the coil i was reading a post a week ago about a guy
on here who had similar problem with his similar system with his coil cooking. i'll put the standed coil back in and see what happens i guess.

I had this, I had the 1.5mm gap plugs fitted so i bought new plugs and leads,gapped em at .8 and all is sweet now, the resistance in the leads was nearly 3 times higher than the new ones!

PGS 4WD wrote:If its effecting the Tacho and the car misses it sounds like a primary ignition issue, when you fitted the electronic did you be sure to source the power from 12v and not after the ballast, low voltage to the electronic ignition will cause issues.

Joel

agreed, check your igition source. you need to make sure the ballast is wired up properly. this confuses people.

otherwise it sounds like your coil or ignition system is breaking down.

id go back to basics, check your ignition components and then check your wiring..

demo2 wrote:I had this, I had the 1.5mm gap plugs fitted so i bought new plugs and leads,gapped em at .8 and all is sweet now, the resistance in the leads was nearly 3 times higher than the new ones!

You can run bigger plug gaps with electronic igniton if the coil and system is designed for 12V as the amount of spark energy available from an electronic system is nearly double that of points, this is why I use the XR3000, unfortunatly what you have is a points eliminator.
Go through the specs and see if they give a minimum primary coil resistance and suggested ballast. The nissan ballast may be a higher resistance then necessary others are readily available. If it says to use a ballast, use a ballast but usually the voltage for the ignition module will be 12 v even if the coil is after a ballast. The GT40r gives a higher output than the SU12r as it has a lowre primary resistance, its worth using if the module can handle it, they are both ballast style coils.
Joel