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whats the better way?
whats the better way?
hey guys,
today i F@%Ked the piston rings in my zuk, wondering witch one of my options would b best or if any1 has any better ideas.
A) strip drown, hone block, forge pistons, new rings & bearings.
B) sorce another 4age motor n do a remove n replace.
lookin for preferably the safer (reliable) n if possible the cheaper option
today i F@%Ked the piston rings in my zuk, wondering witch one of my options would b best or if any1 has any better ideas.
A) strip drown, hone block, forge pistons, new rings & bearings.
B) sorce another 4age motor n do a remove n replace.
lookin for preferably the safer (reliable) n if possible the cheaper option
89 4.2tdt pootrol,w-a,3inch spring,bar-reparing,83%ers,4.6, arb front & noslip rear, 35's
tree mended guards
tree mended guards
hav asked questions bout the 4agze, sum people say they can cause problem if running the the silver top computer coz if i do a sweap i dun wanna hav to fuck round wit wireing.
BUT n if i rebuilt it i can make it a 4agte
![Twisted Evil :twisted:](./images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
BUT n if i rebuilt it i can make it a 4agte
![Twisted Evil :twisted:](./images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
![armsup :armsup:](./images/smilies/icon_ruff.gif)
![Twisted Evil :twisted:](./images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
89 4.2tdt pootrol,w-a,3inch spring,bar-reparing,83%ers,4.6, arb front & noslip rear, 35's
tree mended guards
tree mended guards
U running the 20V head? or an early silver top.
Maybe go for the 4agze bottom end as i beleive they are stronger and the blower setup and then have the blower on a microswitch or manual switch.
U seen this one also
http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/ind ... opic=62552
Nic
Maybe go for the 4agze bottom end as i beleive they are stronger and the blower setup and then have the blower on a microswitch or manual switch.
U seen this one also
http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/ind ... opic=62552
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
yea getting the 4agze was on the cards, but i hav a feeling that the wiring loom is a pain in the arse (by a drunk performance mechanic) n i cant b fucked playin wit it so if it become to much of a pain in the arse i hav no problem rebuildin the motor to normal specs n just strengthning it and runnig it like that as it had no problem running wat i hav got b4 the rings went.
89 4.2tdt pootrol,w-a,3inch spring,bar-reparing,83%ers,4.6, arb front & noslip rear, 35's
tree mended guards
tree mended guards
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
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nicbeer wrote:U running the 20V head? or an early silver top.
Maybe go for the 4agze bottom end as i beleive they are stronger and the blower setup and then have the blower on a microswitch or manual switch.
U seen this one also
http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/ind ... opic=62552
Nic
4AGZE has piston oil sprays from memory, so is a better option if you are planning on forced induction. The 20V are not as well suited to 4wd aplications, due to their power deliver. Plenty of fun in an old AE86 though
![armsup :armsup:](./images/smilies/icon_ruff.gif)
If you decide to stick with what you got, and not planning forced induction then rebuild it yourself, that way you have a known good engine, not a lucky dip 2nd hand unit. if you are planning on forced induction, and want to keep the 20V, lower the comperssion ratio a bit too.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Just rebuilt my 4age 16v bigport. They are a very easy engine to work on with a manual and general home tools. you will also need feeler guages, ring compressor, good torque wrench, deep 12 point 10mm socket for the head bolts, and a cylinder hone. While you have the engine pulled down, you may as well run a gasket/seal kit through it and dont forget to have the head machined either. If you have the block stripped down it might be cheaper/easier to get the machinist to hone your cylinders for you.
You can rebuild it in the chassis rails if you remove the front clip but it is a pita, IMO get an engine stand and do it properly.
When you have your pistons pulled out, check out the skirts and look for general wear and tear. Mine were luckily ok so I didnt need to replace them but you wont need forgies unless you plan on forced induction and if thats the case, get a gze block at the least. Just replace them with standard ones if they are rooted.
Good luck.
You can rebuild it in the chassis rails if you remove the front clip but it is a pita, IMO get an engine stand and do it properly.
When you have your pistons pulled out, check out the skirts and look for general wear and tear. Mine were luckily ok so I didnt need to replace them but you wont need forgies unless you plan on forced induction and if thats the case, get a gze block at the least. Just replace them with standard ones if they are rooted.
Good luck.
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(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
Guys at http://www.toymods.net/forums/ may be able to provide the advice and help you require
[url=http://www.4x4masters.com.au/]Australian 4X4 Masters Series website[/url]
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[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
thanx guys, im thinkin i might strip the block n rebuild it. pain reason for considering forgies was coz i dont want this to happen again, but i guess its more the ring ill hav to worrie about. all infomation has been very helpful thank u
89 4.2tdt pootrol,w-a,3inch spring,bar-reparing,83%ers,4.6, arb front & noslip rear, 35's
tree mended guards
tree mended guards
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