Page 1 of 1
buying an 80 series
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 7:14 pm
by thomo
im going to buy a 80 series but i am not sure wether to get a petrol or diesel it will mainly be used around town by the missus but i will be using it to tow the van with on holidays and the boat.i have a 75 series at the moment with a 1hz it pulls the van ok but you wouldnt want to be in a hurry.any suggestions would be appreciated. plus i would like to know what klms to the litre you get from the petrol when towing and normal driving.
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 7:56 pm
by MissDrew
I have a 93 GXL with the 4.5 auto petrol. It has HEEPS of balls but loves to drink.
When towing my lux at 110 to 120 it costs me about $25 per 100kms
It doesn`t make any differance if its flat, hilly, a/c on or off or going a bit slower.
Now you queenslanders can see why I haven`t been in a XRCC yet, as much as I`d love to I just can`t aford to
and I`d be silly to drive the lux to a comp that is as hard as XRCC and is over 18hrs (LCMP) away.
I don`t know what it gets empty (but its still not good) as its the wifes car and I really only drive it when towing the lux.
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 8:04 pm
by MissDrew
Ok here is some figures that I wrote down when I towed the lux to the last Nissan Trails.
From Albury to Goulbourne 352kms, 100.72lts, $98.60 - which is flatish and sitting on 100 to 115. no a/c
Goulbourne to Penrith 177kms, 47.99lts, $41.70 - which is very hilly and through outer sydney and sitting on 120 down to city driving. no a/c
Penrith to Nissan Trials and back to Goulbourne 379kms, 112lts, $110.00 Very hilly and city driving and sitting on from 140 down to city speeds. no a/c for some and a/c on for some.
Goulbourne to Gundigi (spelling I have no idea) 170kms, 48.20lts, $44.30 is hilly and sitting on around 115. a/c on
This is towing the lux which with trailer would be around 2000kgs up to 2500kgs.
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 9:56 pm
by dow50r
Gday
Petrols use heaps of fuel, i get 20l/100kms without towing, 25/100 roughly with van on back automatic box.
U can get a 93 petrol for 16k in GXL.
T/D is the pick, a 93 t/d would be 30k. There is alot of kms there in the petrol b4 you break even hey!
( there is a beauty in Sydney 97 t/d auto 33k. Look up exploroz.com "for sales".)
Andrew
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 10:25 pm
by Punchy
i have a 91 80 series td cruiser
last year i went for a drive and covered close to 3500 k's
total cost of diesel was a tad over 500 bucks and that was yanking a trailer and air on all the way
I have also today found out im only making 4 lbs of boost as well it appeaars
So i have ordered a boost tweaky thingamebob and im gonna crank it up to 8-12 lbs..that in turn should return better mileage.
if you are going to dawdle around town alot ...go the auto
if you are going to dawdle around town alot... and buy a manual ...dont get constant 4x4
if you are going to do high way driving alot... go the manual and part time 4x4..
So if i was going to do it all again my purchasing suggestions would be as a minimum
93+ model gxl 80 series
turbo diesel multivalve 1hdtfe
auto
16 inch wheels and brakes to suit
install part time transfer case or part time mod into constant transfer case.
options after purchase
airlockers front and rear
am/uhf combo deck
hot water shower kit
front and rear bars with rear tyre carrier
water tank up under the rear or extra fuel tank.
Rancho in cab adjuster kit and shocks
4 inch lift and caster bushes with self centering spring loaded steering damper
roof carrier rack [removable]
up yours stickers on windows and window tint max factor 50 +
and of course it has to be red/moroon in color as red ones go faster
[tho i do like the mica greens]
the bad part is there isn't many good ones around athat fit the bill, and its a car yard sellers market at the moment.
If you do buy a TD unit
******INSERT DIRE WARNING HERE***********
AS PART OF THE SALE YOU WILL HAVE THE BIG END BEARINGS INSPECTED AND CRANK MEASURED PRIOR TO PURCHASING AND AS CONDITION OF SALE..
ALL OF THE TURBO DIESELS ARE VERY HARD ON BIG END BEARINGS AND ARE PRONE TO FAILURE!!!!!
********END WARNING**********
i speak from experience on the aboce point and have changerd many sets for people with similar results... gouged out big end bearing and ovaled cranks are plentyiuful. Its that little tapping/knocking soud deep in the engine that you sometimes miss until its to late. Low oil pressure gauge is a good start but most of them have that anyways due to the gauge dropping out of calibration
happy shopping
Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 3:15 pm
by thomo
Thanks for all the replys i think i will stick with a diesel 5 speed,dont want an auto if i get a gxl i will turn it in to a part time 4wd and i will get a non turbo and put one on myself.
cruisers
Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 11:42 pm
by adrian
do the mulit valve ones have bearing problems
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2003 12:00 am
by Punchy
vary rare for the multivalve to have problems
something to do with revised bearing sizes and type
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2003 8:00 am
by dow50r
Early t/d suffered from bigend problems, later (95+) multivalves didnt. 5 speeds can be hard to shift, there is alot of metal in there to move. Autos run taller overdrive, approx 300rpm lower at highway speed, but suffer going down hill in the bush. (notice i didnt say uphill)
Andrew