Outer Limits 4x4 Board

My clutch is nearly dead so i need a new one!

Is it worth getting a heavy clutch? I will be getting gears soon so may not need it?

Or just a normal clutch?

What is the best brand?

How much would i expect to pay?

THANKS HEAPS!

Exeedy (spelling?) make a heavyduty clutch.

go and get one, eventhough your getting gearing. it'll give you piece on mind. especially in the mud that you drive


Mitch

$240ish for whole cutch kit for the exedy HD one.

i just put one in my new zook.

i got one off ebay for $165 and it was pick up in sunbury

B4T - was that clutch/pressure plate and both bearings (throwout,spiggot) also in that cost i put was a flywheel machine (about 20-30 bux)

Or if u were looking at below there is no mention of brands of bearings or clutch and looks to be a std duty one.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CLUTCH-KIT-NEW-S ... dZViewItem

Do exedy do 1ltr clutches ?

Hey Nic, where did you get your clutch from? Is that just an off the shelf price or u know a guy? I was told like $270 just for the kit
Ian

was a complete kit with both bearings and pressure plate. it is only a standard kit and you will have to get the fly wheel machined yourself.

Mr Emu wrote:Hey Nic, where did you get your clutch from? Is that just an off the shelf price or u know a guy? I was told like $270 just for the kit
Ian

in perth from Hitech brake and clutch. tried to find reciept but couldnt. bout 220 - 240

Nic

Thanks guys i think i might go for a heavy duty one just for peice of mind!

Mugginsmoo has smelt my clutchy and it's gotten worse sence then!

I am sure exeddy are a quality product, and you won't do wrong, but I am a big fan of genuine clutches - Most aftermarket clutches don't take heat as well as the stock clutch so they glaze up quicker if slipped.

In itself though , if the gearing is correct, there is no need for a "heavy duty" clutch as you won't be loading it up more than stock. I am driving all sots of stupid steepness ATM with a god knows how old 1.0 clutch and 34's because I have enough gearing I never have to slip it. (can even key start up hill!)

Suzukiboy, we have get you out of the mud and onto some actual obstacles. mud just wrecks everything and once you have driven a bit if it and stuffed enough junk under your car you will get over it.

as Cheezy once wisely sent to the poolroom....

"Mud is for people who can't drive obstacles"

Just having a stir - you'll be fine with a heavy duty quality clutch, stay away from anything like a "brass button" clutch - the drivability will suck off road.

Steve.

Lately i have been doing more technical rutted hill kind of stuff but still into some nice deep mud!

I think i might go heavy duty just for peice of mind!

I dont mind the factory clutch. My clutch is a "well aged"factory edition, and as Steve said, with the right gearing (bout 70:1) i never have had issues. +1 on the coping with heat issue, have seen a standard zook with the owner riding the cr*p out of the clutch, and it held up to repeated abuse.

That cheezy quote is Gold. Mud is for those that lack the ability to think in 3D

Layto....

I like that quote more

PS - 70:1 is pretty sweet. My 1.0 runs 3.1X6.0 X4.1= 76:1 and it is the shiznit with 34 swampers. (stock 1.0 with the worlds noisiest 6:1)

With the 660 I will be 4.0 X6.4X5.12= 131:1. Should be adequate for Q78's... but I don't think I will have much wheelspeed The clutch, however, will outlast time itself (which might be how long it takes me to get up any given track

Another sweet setup for 31's- (1.0litre) 3.1X4.1X4.88 - 62:1 was a bit borderline on really steep dry stuff, but was OK. This is how Mock ran doof.

Edited to remove the alien doods

Whats the equation again for that steve?

I am running std 5speed,3.9s, 1ltr case, 31's. 1.6 mpfi powering it.

3.65 (1st gear) X 2.51 (1.0 transfer) X 3.9 (NT diff centre) = 35.72 should be OK for moderately steep work, but I'm guessing in WA it is more sand and higher speed stuff, so it should be passable, and it will be fine in mud as you can build some wheelspeed.

In Vic, the party starts at about 60:1. below that, and it's ok but suffers a bit in the steep stuff.

Currenly, our tallest geared car doing the harder trips would be christover- 3.65X2.51X4.88= 44.7:1, and he feels it.

PS, your low 1st will be equal to my low 4th... like I said, I will struggle with wheelspeed!



Sorry for the hijack Suzukiboy-Take out of it that low gears = happy clutches.

Steve.

And lower diff gears = happier springs, uni's and T/case mounts from what I have seen. But T/case gears are heaps easier.

love_mud wrote:And lower diff gears = happier springs, uni's and T/case mounts from what I have seen. But T/case gears are heaps easier.

Yeah thought about lower diff gears but i got the lockers front and rear so tansfer gears it is and i think they work alot better as in lower?

suzuki boy wrote:

love_mud wrote:And lower diff gears = happier springs, uni's and T/case mounts from what I have seen. But T/case gears are heaps easier.

Yeah thought about lower diff gears but i got the lockers front and rear so tansfer gears it is and i think they work alot better as in lower?

When you have the case out for the gears definately beef up the arms, the long arm bends and will wind up cracking in the middle and tries to egg out the mounting holes (use loctite on the bolts that go into the T\case )

Thanks for that will try and do something!

but ALWAYS use factory sierra transfer case rubber mounts, I know of someone who was breaking so many mounts (1.3, 6:1, stock diffs, 9X32 swampers) that they bought 10 "new" mounts from someone.... at $45 each.

They kept breaking, so a very elaborate capture system was welded up to surround the rubbers and hold the case in when the broke.

anyway, recently, The white sierra I posted in the WT/NT thread bent a tension side mount so badly that the rubber was about 4" long and looked like it was about to go any minute.

One of these "brand new" rubbers went in..... and lasted about 1/2 a day

So an unknown old manky mount went back in from Christovers collection of antique suzuki parts.... and it is still in the car.

Look for the Bridgestone "B" on the mounts- these are factory.

Another comment- when you beef up the arm, tie the arm in to the front output cover bolts on the case. The stock arm bends between the mounting bolts and the kink just around the front output

Steve.

Thanks heaps for that always good to know!

Will have to ask exactly how it's done when i get the gears!

Dude,
Sell the Zook, Buy a Landrover...lol
Next thing you will be getting work at Crown......... PMSL

How you doing Fella.... Long time...

Steve

Yeah nah!

Was wondering how long it would take ya!

But yours looks pretty nice!

Went to super cheap yesterday because they have the exedy clutchs!

But they no jack sh!t and couldn't help at all kept ringing people and ended up coming out with we don't have them but can get them. Then walked off so i asked for a price they rang some person and didn't even ask for a model and said $300! Don't even know if there was some one on the other end of the phone! Didn't look any thing up on te computer!

So is there any where else that stocks these clutchs because im not going supercheap!

Try a proper clutch mob.

My dad droped into supercheap in werribee and the exedy kit is $265 and i'm waiting for autobarn to get back to me!

I don't think i have a clutch joint near me but will check it out for sure!